20 Most Recent Arrow ET200 Electric Brad Nail Gun Questions & Answers

Google it and download the manual.

Arrow Fastener Nail Master ET200 - YouTube

? 0:42 www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Y8OBdU29Qc May 30, 2012 - Uploaded by Piranhamonkey I made this video to show how a new, out of the box Arrow NailMaste... ... However, my NEW nail gun, jams up a lot, meaning I have to take the ...

Susan Sylvia is exactly right. I just fixed my tool with her information. I would add to be very careful not to disturb the 2 small springs(associated with the trigger and safety mechanisms) and take note of how they are positioned. Also, the screws seem to strip unusually easily so be gentle when removing and replacing them.

There are no adjustments on any electric stapler / brad nailer that I've heard of , only the pnumatics. The electric staplers/brad nailers only work well in softer woods

Take the two screws out and pull out all four pieces -- three plates and one skinny 'T' shaped piece. Look inside the unit and you'll see a pointed piece, which is the hammer that drives the brad in. This next step is key: put the first plate back in (the one that is flat on both sides) making sure that it slides in UNDER the hammer. The hammer fits loosely in its housing, so it may help to turn the nailer upside down so that the hammer falls down, giving you the room you need to get the plate in--again, so that it's UNDER the hammer when you turn the nailer back over. Once you have done this, simply slide the second piece in (the one with the fluted strip down the middle), and slide it in with the fluted side up, then the 'T' piece (with the 'T' in first) then the last piece with the wider groove that contains the 'T' piece. Replace screws

I could not find one on the net. I would go to the Arrow web site and use the "contact us" link to send them an email requesting a diagram. http://www.arrowfastener.com/

. Take the two screws out and pull out all four pieces -- three plates and one skinny 'T' shaped piece. Look inside the unit and you'll see a pointed piece, which is the hammer that drives the brad in. This next step is key: put the first plate back in (the one that is flat on both sides) making sure that it slides in UNDER the hammer. The hammer fits loosely in its housing, so it may help to turn the nailer upside down so that the hammer falls down, giving you the room you need to get the plate in--again, so that it's UNDER the hammer when you turn the nailer back over. Once you have done this, simply slide the second piece in (the one with the fluted strip down the middle), and slide it in with the fluted side up, then the 'T' piece (with the 'T' in first) then the last piece with the wider groove that contains the 'T' piece. Replace screws and you're back in business!

I had this problem too, and finally figured out what was wrong. If you have cleared a jam and have put the nail gun back together, then all you get is a 'thunk' when you try to drive a brad, you have put it back together wrong, as I did. Take the two screws out and pull out all four pieces -- three plates and one skinny 'T' shaped piece. Look inside the unit and you'll see a pointed piece, which is the hammer that drives the brad in. This next step is key: put the first plate back in (the one that is flat on both sides) making sure that it slides in UNDER the hammer. The hammer fits loosely in its housing, so it may help to turn the nailer upside down so that the hammer falls down, giving you the room you need to get the plate in--again, so that it's UNDER the hammer when you turn the nailer back over. Once you have done this part, simply slide the second piece in (the one with the fluted strip down the middle), slide it in fluted side up, then the 'T' piece (with the 'T' in first) then the last piece with the wider groove that contains the 'T' piece. Replace screws and you're back in business! This information may be in the instructions, but I have long ago thrown those away.

Do you still need this? I have a good board from my ET200. I dropped it, and the piece that keeps the nail driver steady when it shoots in & out broke off. However, the gun still functions fine. Let me know.

You might get better penetration if you use your other hand to press the gun down firmly onto the surface before you pull the trigger. (This will help if the gun tends to jump a little when you fire it.) Or, if the surface you are firing into might not be rigid enough (like a thin board that is not supported) - in that case you might improve the penetration by better supporting the surface you are nailing into, perhaps by placing it on the floor. On the other hand, this may simply be a case that the gun is not powerful enough to do what you want it to do. To test that theory, try it into a piece of soft wood (like a 2X4) or find a soft thick material as a first layer over the wood you are using. Perhaps you can use shorter nails - thin brads in wood don't gain much strength beyond 1/2 inch penetration anyway. The length of the brad only needs to be about 1/2 inch longer than the thickness of the first layer of material. I hope this helps, good luck Al K

I don't have that same model but my gun started doing something similar a while back. I was able to disassemble the head of the gun and found that the hammer or piston that drives the nail had rounded itself off and wasn't able to make good contact with the nail head. Instead it pushed itself on top of the nail and got wedged. It's nearly impossible to see the stuck nail or dulled piston head without taking it apart. Hopefully this will help.