Chain adjustment The chain is loose - how do I tighten it

Tighten the adjusting screw with the two nuts loose but snugon the middle of the chain on the top of the bar. Tighten the chain screw until the chain is loose enough to raise the chain up about 1/2 inch then tighten the mounting nuts tight. Then see if it is ok.
Terry

With the chainsaw positioned and with the bar/chain combo loosely assembled properly on the chainsaw power-head. With the guide bar/chain adjuster inserted properly into the bar. Using a rag or wearing gloves. Notice how much up and down movement is at the guide bar tip. You must use this to your best advantage!! With the chain adjuster loose. finger tighten the bar nut or nuts. Hold the bar-chain assembly in the up position. To tension the chain, turn the adjuster in the correct direction to tighten the chain. DO NOT LOOSEN YOUR HOLD ON THE BAR, KEEP THE BAR IN THE UP POSITION. Rotate the chain along the bar to make sure it is free to move back and forth, KEEP THE BAR UP. Tighten the tensioner until the chain just touches the bottom of the guide bar. Check for back and forth movement again. Tighten the tensioner no more than a quarter of a turn. CONTINUE TO HOLD THE BAR UP. Now tighten the bar buts or nut snugly against the sprocket & chain guard cover. Check for movement again. If satisfactorily tight and free movement is attained the chain bar combination is properly adjusted.
This scenario will change with different types and brands of chainsaws. It is always very helpful if posters would include a modicum of make, model information with their queries.
Waltster

Loosen the axle nut and the lock nuts for the chain adjusters on each side of the swingarm. Turn the adjuster to move the rear wheel to the rear to tighten the chain.

You want to adjust the chain so that you have 1 inch up and down play in the chain. By this I mean 1/2" above center and 1/2" below center of the chain as it sits on the bike, 1" up and down inclusive. Adjustment should be made at the point where the chain is the tightest. Roll the rear wheel while checking the chain tension. Find the tightest point to make your adjustment.

Move both chain adjusters the same amount to keep wheel straight within the swingarm. Once adjusted, roll the wheel a couple of turns and check the adjustment of the chain again. Once finished, tighten adjuster lock nuts and retorque the axle nut to 50 foot pounds of torque.

Good Luck, Steve

There is an adjusting pawl with a screw that does the tightening. The nuts only clamp the bar once the chain is tightened. The adjusting screw is in the plane of the bar. The pawl may have disengaged the bar or may have broken.

I don't own a 360, but most saws you have to loosen the two nuts that hold the bar on, and adjust the adjusting screw that points toward the front of the saw while holding up on the tip of the bar. Tighten until the chain is snug, but still loose enough to be able to spin the chain on the bar.

Normally, a loose chain will enhance it's ability to jump off when trimming small branches.
When installing and/or adjusting a chain;
1) install the chain, bar, and cover, and install the cover nut loosely
2) support the 'nose' end of the bar with a block
3) tighten the chain until it touches the bottom of the bar,
and then tighen the adjuster 1/8 of a turn more.
*this will make the chain just a LITTLE snug
4) tighten the cover nut, and then by hand CAREFULLY rotate the chain.
If you cannot rotate by hand, it is too tight. re-adjsut
** This proceedure must be used on ANY brand chain saw.
Here is why.
If the bar nose is not lifted upon adjustment, when cutting,
the nose will move upward, the chain will have a 'droop' away
from the bar and appear to have loosened while cutting.
Any contact with a small branch will flip the chain off of the bar.
If you re-adjust it improperly, the same senerio will occur the next cut.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/rolandw_c013176d62ee17ae

Look at the saw body from the nose of the bar, Just to the left of the bar a slotted screw head should be visible (on clutch cover). That is your tension adjustment.

Chain adjustment

1. Make sure the chain brake is off (gloves will protest your fingers).
2. If necessary, loosen the nut that is clamping the guide bar in place (or whatever your saw uses to hold the side plate and bar on with). We don't need these really loose - just finger tight will do.
3. Ease the tension until the chain is obviously loose.
4. Using one hand, hold the nose of the bar up.
5. Now, while holding the nose up, adjust the tension so that the chain just touches the underside of the bar then just a little more.
6. Continue holding the nose of the bar up & tighten up the clutch cover nut.

To tighten a loose chain you need to pull the cotter key pin from the rear axle then loosen but do not remove the nut. It just has to be loose enough to slide in the swingarm. At this point there are tension adjusters on the ends of the swing arm you tighten them to take the slack out of the chain. NOT TO TIGHT! You should have 1 inch of play in the chain this is up down play not front to back. I push the chain up the highest it can go and measure how far it falls. NOTE: TURN THE TENSION ADJUSTERS THE SAME AMOUNT THE SAME DIRECTION IF THE AXLE IS TWISTED YOU WILL THROW THE CHAIN. This can make for a bad six months!

Loosen the rear axle nut mounting the wheel to the swing arm, then loosen the lock bolt on the top of the chrome adjuster ( left and right adjusters ), then loosen the lock nut on the long adjuster screw. Run the nut about 1/2" down the length of the adjuster screw. Now turn the adjuster screws equally in a clockwise direction to remove the excess slack from the chain. There should be index lines on the swing arm that the single index line on the chrome adjuster is referenced to. Example; If the chrome index line meets up with perhaps the fourth index mark on the swing arm on the left side, the right side should be at the same position. This keeps the wheel in alignment. When the adjustment is finished tighten the axle nut then tighten the adjuster lock nuts and then tighten the lock bolt on top of the chrome adjusters.

Leave some slack in the chain. Mid-chain you should be able to move the chain up and down about one and one half inches. If the chain can be lifted at the rear sprocket it is too loose. Lubricate the chain and the control cables on the bike. What condition are the front and rear sprockets in? The teeth should be bluntly rounded at the tip. If the teeth are sharp at the tip, or getting that way, then the sprockets are way past time to be replaced. Note that a worn sprocket can quickly ruin a new chain.

Please top rate this solution. Thanks!

Make sure the bar is positioned on the bar adjusting pin before you tighten cover. Adjust tension with bar adjusting screw, then tighten bar bolts.