A cycle takes forever to wash when I have the temp. 105 or higher. And it seems like the water barely gets warm. Also, I don't hear e hissing sound of the water heating. My washer is 81/2 yrs old and I had this problem 5 years ago and they had a hard time finding the problem. First repairman replaced the thermistor and that did nothing. Then second repairman changed the controller and that worked. He is the one that told me I should hear that hissing sound of e water heating. Do you think I need another controller or a heating element?
Replace heater element
Does the water coming into the machine seem to be coming into the machine slower than when it was new? if so clean screens between water inlet hoses and machine.
FIRST OFF CHECK WITH A MULTI MTER FOR CONTINUITY. THE WATER TEMPERATURE CONTROL SWITCH, THE INLET VALVE, AND UR SO CALLED ELEMENT WHICH I FIND ODD AS HAVENT SEEN A WASHING MACHINE WITH A HEATING ELEMENT B4.
SOURCE: asko w6221 front load washer stops after wash cycle
Do all of your cycles work when you turn them manually? If one cycle does not work when you turn the dial on it then it will be your timer (The dial assembly $100-up) If all your cycles work manually, then it could be your timer motor which is attached to your timer assembly. If you turn the dial pass the wash, on to the rinse, does the dial automaticly move (when finishng the rinse cycle)to the spin cycle? If so then your timer motor is ok. The only wires close to the bottom are the motor, but these should be high enough out of the way.
SOURCE: ASKO w6011 FRONT LOADER
Try to Open the safety compartment using a screwdriver under the wash machine in the front.
Then open the big white knodb this will cause the wate to drain out which is fine.
Then clean this out. Usually you will find coins and stuff here from years of operations from pockets. clear these out and your problem maybe fixed. worked for us
SOURCE: Asko Washer/Dryer (WCAM 1812); Dryer not working.
Update: The dry cycle is now working! Apparently the automatic overload/shut off on the heating element got tripped. We had a technician out this morning. He unplugged the machine, removed the top of the unit, and simply pushed a little red/orange button that was on top of the heating element. When we plugged it back in the heating element worked again. The technician was able to troubleshoot this by checking the amps while running the dry cycle. But the proof was really when we did a load and the machine heated up (just like it used to) during the dry cycle. This was actually a relatively simply fix - though could be dangerous as you have to open up the electrical area. The reset button is rather inconspicuous and located on top of the heating element, which is long (runs front to back in the center part of the top of the machine - which you can get to by removing the lid/top outer housing) and silver - wrapped in insulation. It's pretty obvious. The button is in a little metal fixture on top of the heating element. The technician told us that the rest can get tripped when the unit overheats. (We think this happened when the laundry tub overfilled and the hose was totally submerged - the machine was working overtime to pump out the water.) The technician also warned that this can happen if the machine gets turned off suddenly mid-cycle - especially during the drying cycle. He said that the heating element gets so hot, it needs to have a gentle cool down period, which is marked on the dryer dial for the last 20 minutes of the cycle. I hope this helps others!
323 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×