SOURCE: PRIDE GOGO ULTRA X Beeps and Cuts off
Please make sure your charger is okay, can you try another charger ?
the other thing is , the FREEWHEEL lever can it move itself say when you go down a kerb , what are they replacing ? do you have the part ? send me a photograph if you do ?
SOURCE: my pride IV scooter will not start I get a click
An 8-flash code indicates that the controller has shot craps. The controller is located under the shroud beneath the seat by the batteries and it controls all of the power and automatic functions of the scooter. They are damaged most often by water infiltration like running through deep puddles, etc. or by over-amping the scooter by driving it through unstable terrain like sand, mud, wet grass. There's no fix for it but a replacement and it's pricey...several hundred dollars.
SOURCE: Scooter with fully charged battery
Hi.
Seven beeps means faulty Throttle potentiometer or speed potentiometer fault. If using contact cleaner is not enough, that means that the faulty part must be replaced. The potentiometer is tested reading Ohms with a multimeter. Touch its contacts with multimeter probe set on Ohms while using the accelerator at the same time.Contact your authorized Pride Provider to get replacement part or to get a quote on repair.
SOURCE: when I turn the key
The beep code will begin with 10 very fast beeps, followed by 5 slower beeps. The 5 slower beeps is your actual code. The beep code 5 is a brake fault.
The scooter may be in freewheel mode or there may be a short in the brake.
Make sure the scooter is in drive mode with the rear brake lever in the correct position. If that does not clear the fault you need to check the electromagnetic brake.
To check the brake you need a digital voltmeter. The brake should read 30 to 65 ohms when you read across the pins. You need to measure the resistance at each successive point on the harness because there are 5 connectors. While you are inspecting these plugs, check for corrosion, loose pins, broken wires, and pins not making good contact. Disassemble the front and rear halves of the scooter when you do this.
If all the resistance checks are good up to the controller plug for the brake, you have a bad controller. With that being said, I usually see a bad connection at the multiple points in-between. Sometimes the wires for the brake will melt at the connector at the controller.
Inspect these areas visually, removing the rear cover of the brake/motor/transaxle and the controller. An experienced tech should charge you under 1 hour labor for the diagnosis. You may be able to save some money by checking the obvious areas for unplugged or bad connections first.
The brake will cost about $250, the interface wiring and connectors about $50 and the controller is about $500. For this reason, you should invest in a good tech to diagnose the problem first, before proceeding with any hit and miss do it yourself repairs.
Including a second visit to install the new parts, labor cost should not exceed 2 hours total.
This is a very popular model so you should be able to find an experienced tech in your area.
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