"F21" is a Long Drain error code. This is an indication that you have an obstruction somewhere in the drainage system. Most commonly, this means there is something lodged in the drain pump or inlet line running from the wash tub to the pump. There is a white screw off cap on the drain pump that you can remove to inspect the pump impeller and clean. More than likely the filter is clogged up. Remove the bottom kick panel to get to the filter. Have some towels handy since there will be a bit of water that will come out when you open the filter. Take a look at the video above to show you how to access the pump filter.
SOURCE: Kenmore Top loading washing machne F4 error. (110.20052994)
It spins, but doesn't pumpIf your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out.
To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port.
Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.
If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.
It doesn't spin or pump
If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it.
It pumps, but the water returns
If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:
If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess.
If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.
SOURCE: replace ccu on my he3t kenmore
The F1 error code on this washer indicates a Primary Control Board failure.
It is likely that the machine control board will need to be replaced to correct this problem.
The part number for the machine control board is undetermineable because you have not provided me with the exact model # of your washer.
The procedure for replacing the machine control board is provided HERE
LINK: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wfgstgtftbtkrrdxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/gfsfgfsgqxgfqtqtgwf/1/1303472/5961857/image55806img-or.gif
NOTE: Be sure to unplug the washer to disconnect electrical power before accessing internal components.
There is a slight possibility that a problem with the pressure switch hose could be causing this problem.
A pinched or twisted air hose can cause this fault code.
When you open the console, check the air hose connected to the pressure switch on the machine control board.
If it is pinched or crimped, I recommend rerouting the hose to resolve this problem.
This may fix your problem without replacing the control board.
NOTE: You may want to check for this condition before ordering the control board. Most electronic control boards cannot be returned for a refund or credit.
If you find no apparent problems with the air hose on the pressure switch, then replacing the machine control board on this washer should correct your problem. There is a risk involved in replacing this part yourself.
As noted above, you could have a problem with the air pressure hose that is not apparent upon your initial inspection. A service technician would normally need to properly and thoroughly diagnose this problem before replacing the control board.
1. Unplug washer.
2. Remove the outer portion of the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot around the door. Feel around the edge of the door bellow where it attaches to the front of the washer. You will find a wire retaining hoop in the seam between the rubber and the front case. Follow this wire hoop to the bottom of the door bellow and you will find a tension spring. Carefully, stretch this spring apart and remove the wire hoop.
3. Pull the rubber bellow from the door facing on the front of the washer being careful not to rip or tear it. Once removed, fold the rubber backwards inside the drum so you can access behind the front panel. DO NOT remove the rubber bellow from the wash tub.
4. The door latch assembly is located behind the front panel of the washer on the right hand side. Locate and remove the three screws on the washer front that hold the door latch assembly in place. The whole assembly should come free from the washer front and be held by a plastic mounting bracket and several wire connectors.
5. Carefully remove the latch assembly from the plastic mounting bracket BEFORE attempting to unplug any wires. It makes it much easier to access if you do.
6. Unplug the wire connectors using care not to break any of the wires. You may want to write them down, but I believe they will only plug into their respective slots.
7. Remove the old door latch and install the new one in the reverse order of the steps I just presented to you. Plug the wires back in first, then place the whole assembly back into the plastic mounting bracket, and then reattach to the front of the washer.
8. Now, when you get the reinstalling the rubber door boot, you may want to get the assistance of a second pair of hands as it can be difficult sometimes to manipulate the wire retainer back into place. Carefully reattach the rubber bellow to the door facing on the front of the washer first.
9. Starting at the top of the door bellow at the 12 o'clock position begin inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Work your way around with both hands to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (This is where you could use those second pair of hands). While holding a slight downward tension on the wire hoop to keep it in place, pull the tension spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop into place at the bottom. Once you've completed these steps make sure the door closes and latches properly. NEVER slam a door with an electronic latch. They can break easily.
Now plug the washer back in and test operate. NOTE: You can run diagnostics on these washers by referring to the tech sheet provided by the manufacturer. The tech sheet is located behind the lower panel under the door, or along the interior cabinet walls. Included, are instructions on how to run diagnostics and troubleshooting tips associated with the list of fault codes. It is recommended that this tech sheet remain inside the washer to prevent it from being lost.
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SOURCE: Washer will not run, Kenmore HE2 Plus, Model# 47532601
It appears your timer/main controller/CCU has failed in this instance.
For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...
FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.
PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.
If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.
Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.
If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question
SOURCE: Kenmore HE 3T, F21 error code, discharge pump continues to run
"F21" is a Long Drain error. If the drain time exceeds 8 minutes this error code will be displayed. In addition, a "SUDS" error may also be displayed. This may be an indication of a drain pump problem and/or clog in the drain line. You will need to check the following:
1.First, attempt to unplug the washer for at LEAST 30 minutes to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). Sometimes this is all that is required to correct momentary glitches with the unit. If the error code returns, proceed to step 2.
2.Check the drain hose to make sure it is not kinked or clogged.
3.Check the electrical connections to the pump and ensure the pump is running.
4.Remove the drain pump filter and check for foreign objects and/or debris.
If the above procedures do not correct the problem, it is recommended by the manufacturer to replace the drain pump.
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SOURCE: no communication between UI and CCU
Hi.
I think that by this time you already fixed the problem. The codes indicate usually a fault that is either CCU or MCU.
Please read the tip below, explaining how to fix F70 and F71 problems.
The comment applies to Whirlpool built kenmore washers like the one in
question.
F70 and F71 are two logic board error codes that point at a communication error between the main log...
Regards.
Ginko.
You did not mention whether the washer actually pumps the water out of the washer when you are getting the F21 code. If the washer pumps the water out okay, then the pump and drain system are okay.
Excessive suds can prevent the pump from evacuating the water properly and will sometimes result in an F21. When the suds dissipate, the washer will then be able to pump out the water. Look for this type of condition if necessary.
If the drain pump runs but the washer will not drain the water, see if the washer will gravity drain. Pull the drain hose out of the stand pipe or sink and place it in a shallow pan at floor level. If the washer will gravity drain okay but will not drain when the drain pump is running then you will likely need to replace the drain pump.
If the washer will not gravity drain, then you still have a clog somewhere in the drain system. If you have not pulled the hose between the tub and the pump, then you could have a clog in this area.
If the washer does drain normally, then you could have a failed pressure switch, air pressure hose problem, wiring failure or a failed control board.
Excessive suds can prevent the pump from evacuating the water properly and will sometimes result in an F21. When the suds dissipate, the washer will then be able to pump out the water. Look for this type of condition if necessary.
If the drain pump runs but the washer will not drain the water, see if the washer will gravity drain. Pull the drain hose out of the stand pipe or sink and place it in a shallow pan at floor level. If the washer will gravity drain okay but will not drain when the drain pump is running then you will likely need to replace the drain pump.
If the washer will not gravity drain, then you still have a clog somewhere in the drain system. If you have not pulled the hose between the tub and the pump, then you could have a clog in this area.
If the washer does drain normally, then you could have a failed pressure switch, air pressure hose problem, wiring failure or a failed control board. I provided some technical information below that will help you test the pressure switch. Unplug the washer and remove the top panel to access the pressure switch and the electronic control board. If the tub is empty, you should measure continuity (near zero ohms) between contacts 21 and 22 on the pressure switch using a volt/ohm meter. The LEVEL 1, LEVEL 2 and OVERFLOW contacts should all measure open (infinite resistance). If the contacts on the pressure switch are okay, you can check the resistance through the wires at the electronic control board. If you get the correct resistance through the circuits measured at the control board then the control board will need to be replaced. If the wiring harness is bad, it will need to be replaced.
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