King Kutter II Gear Driven Rotary Tiller 6ft Tiller Width, Model No. Tg - 72 - Y Logo

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Posted on Mar 31, 2009

Kingkutter 6 foot tiller leaking at seal on the tine shaft .

How do you get the bearing and housing off the tine shaft after removing the gear box

  • trayriki Apr 05, 2009

    i figured out you have to have a gear puller and a little heat from a heat gun. you could also use a heat torch but have to be very careful not to overheat the bearing. Also you really need a seal driver to reinstall the new seals.

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3 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 205 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 13, 2009

SOURCE: The end of July we purchased a 4 foot tiller from

most warranty on tillers is 1 to 2 years depending on the brande, also it must be a MF defect. if the shaft broken for improper uses you may have a problem. warranty service centers well know what happened and how it broke. call your 800 number in your book also it gives you your warranty info there to.

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on May 21, 2010

SOURCE: Tine shaft removal for mantis 2 cycle tiller

Put the tiller in a vise clamping on the bottom of worm gear housing. Remove worm gear housing cover. Clamp the worm gear at the top with a vise grip (I think Kuya Jon is correct in that you could skip this step because the transmission won't move when unscrewing, but I did it anyway just in case). Put a pipe wrench on the left tine shaft and unscrew it like it was a normal bolt. It's in there tight and it will take some force. When I unscrewed mine, the left bearing seal retainer, left bearing seal, and left bearing all came out with it. I just needed to replace the seals. I went to the right side, and with a screw driver carefully pried out the retainer. Then it's easy to just pull out the right seal with your finger. Put a new right seal in and insert the right retainer. Make sure the retainer is facing the correct way. I used a block of wood to tap mine in once I had it positioned because I was afraid to hit the retainer with a hammer. Now I put the tine shaft back in while holding the worm gear with the vise grip. Screw the shaft as far as it will go by hand and then go the rest of the way with a pipe wrench. Now came the tricky part. The right bearing did not slide right in. There was some resistance. I had to use a 1/2" threaded pvc pipe (not sure it needs to be threaded but that's what worked for me) longer than the tine shaft that was sticking out. I slip the pipe over the shaft against the bearing and tapped with a hammer. This drove the bearing in all the way. It needs to go in far enough to leave room for the seal and retainer. The plastic pvc allowed for this. Now put the right seal in. If the outer edge of the seal is only flush with the housing you did not tap the bearing in far enough. I made this mistake on my first try and tried to force the retainer in. Take it from me. It won't work. You will end up ordering another retainer to replace the one you mangled. Once in properly I slid the retainer over the shaft and then put a washer over that to tap against. The block of wood doesn't work on this side because the shaft is in the way. I used my pvc pipe again to tap against the washer and, wala, it worked like a charm. I hope this helps someone. All the other posts really helped me. Thanks!

Anonymous

  • 1833 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 30, 2011

SOURCE: shaft is turning but it

First check the gear to make sure that there is no brakingparts or bolts stuck in the gear. Now slide the top gear (toothed inside and out) back on theshaft replace the snap ring. You may need to add some gear oil also. Hope this will help you. Good Luck.

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2answers

King Kutter 6ft tiller. It hit a metal fence post. The tiller will not turn, bogs down tractor. Where do I start?

You checked for a piece of post or rock stuck in the tines?

You should be able to turn the PTO shaft by hand. Suggest you disconnect the PTO shaft from the tractor and make sure the problem is the tiller.

The tiller end of the pto shaft has both a slip clutch and a shear pin to protect the gear box and tine shaft drive gear. See attachment.

If you are unable to turn the PTO shaft by hand with it disconnected from the tractor then likely there is something jambed in the tines or internal damage to the gear box or tine shaft gear drive.

Parts diagrams are in the owners manual. Manuals are free download at https://www.kingkutter.com/manuals4_14_2023_11_23_17_pm.jpg
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Front seal leaking in gear box

If it is the front seal in the gear box then the box has to come out. The seal is in the extension housing that the clutch throw out bearing runs on and the seal can be replaced by removing that housing . However mostly if that seal leaks then the front bearing on the clutch shaft may be failing allowing the shaft to move and that is why the seal leaks. If the front of the box is dry then the oil leak may be the rear main seal of the engine so it is best to check both arrears as the oil leaks from the same point in the bell housing
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The rear tine seals are leaking ive taken the bolts out but the tines will not come off what can i do

You could try putting the tiller to use, preferably where it will have to work hard to till the ground it unsuccessful you may need a torch and some good old fashion luck to loosen tines from shaft. Now consider this; if the bearings are worn so that the shaft is loose new seals will not hold up and you will risk doing further damage to the worm gear located on rear shaft and possibly other damage to your transmission from contaminated oil.
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The oil seal where the tiller attachment fastens to the tiller is leaking how do i remove the seal

IF THIS IS A WALK BEHIND TILLER OR FRONT TINE TILLER. THERE SHOULD BE PINS OR BOLTS HOLDING THE TINES ON THE DRIVE SHAFT REMOVE THESE AND PULL THE TINES OFF THE TILLER. THEY MAY GIVE YOU A HARD TIME GETTING THEM OFF SO DON'T GIVE UP. ONCE YOU GET THE TINES OFF YOU SHOULD SEE THE SEALS YOU CAN POP THE OLD ONES OUT WITH A SCREW DRIVER CLEAN OUT THE SOCKETS WHERE THE NEW SEALS WILL GO REPLACE THE NEW SEALS GENTLY WITH A SMALL HAMMER TAPPING THEM IN EVENLY AND TRY NOT TO BEND THE SEAL
Feb 05, 2011 • Garden
4helpful
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Tiller tines will not turn. Engine runs fine...

Well hopefully it's not the transmission, as sometimes these tend to go. Another common but cheaper repair are the two bearings where the tines connect to the unit.

MORE THAN LIKELY.. The bearing is located above the worm gear housing, the part connected to the tines beneath the guard. This removal can be somewhat frustrating but if you remove it and remove the engine flange you'll be able to manually spin the drive shaft and see if it's the worm gear housing/lower bearings or if it's the more likely bearing on the clutch drum or the clutch itself.
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I need to replace the seals on my Troy-Built Pony tiller. 6 hp, ser.# 121811201149. I can not seem to remove the tine shafts. I have pulled the bolt thru the shaft but cannot budge it. Does anyone know...

I presume you opened the port and removed the grade 8 placement bolt? If you have then you need to polish the shafts with 400 then 800 sandpaper, clean then lube them before trying to slide thru the support bearings. If your tine shaft is bent? your screwed, or just remove the shaft seals with a screwdriver and replacing them without removing the shaft. REmember to put a thin coat od RTV arround the outer lip to help make a better seal
5helpful
2answers

I have a lazy boy tiller with chaine drive, its liked locked up. it will not engage, any help please ! it does have aplace to put oil on the side of the chine drive house. what kind of oil would it take?...

The gear box can be removed, reset and resealed using gasket magic. It is not a quick fix and during this process I also replaced the tine shaft seals as I had lubricant leaking from the gear-box to the tine shaft. When you are tilling you should avoid rocky areas. It iseems sudden tension due to bouncing is what knocks the chain loose.

DO NOT remove the belt pulley from the top of the gear box. It is unecessary. You must remove the entire assembly from the rear of the machine. It is set in place by 6 bolts and come off as a whole unit. Once it is removed then undo the three bolts and spacers that hold the case in place. Remove the case from the frame by sliding it out the open end. You will have to remove all of the bolts around the outside of the case; a cordless drill really comes in handy here. Lay the case on its side, as you remove the bolts you may experience lubricant dripping from the centers of the removed bolt holes, or at the center holes where the case connected to the frame. This is not a problem as you will need to replace the 90 weight lubricant after you have resealed the case anyway. Once you have removed all of the bolts, using a flathead screwdriver and a mallet or hammer. break the seal around the outside of the case. You may have to go around a few times, but eventually it will pull apart revealing the sprockets, bound chain and remaining lubricant. Since it is open this is an ideal time to check for wear on sprockets and remove any large debris from the case. reset the chain so that the tine shaft moves freely and the corresponding sprockets spin as you move the tine shaft. Using a gasket sealant (Gasket Magic**) put a thick bead of sealant in the center of flat outside edge where the two sides of the case come together. Add a little extra around bolt holes. Replace the two covers snugly together and begin finger-tightening the bolts back into the crank case. Once you have completed this task, go back over the bolts and tighten with a hand wrench. Once the case is back together allow 45m to an hour for the sealant to completly harden before introducing lubricant to the system. Then reattach the case to the rear assembly and then put your tiller back together.

This occurrence seams to be an issue with these machines, however the problem is avoidable as it is persistant use in rocky or hard ground areas which causes causes the system to jump and bind. If you happen upon a hard patch of earth or rocky area, go slow, do not force the tiller and remove any large debris when possible before tilling.
Jun 16, 2009 • Garden
30helpful
4answers

Tine shaft removal for mantis 2 cycle tiller

Put the tiller in a vise clamping on the bottom of worm gear housing. Remove worm gear housing cover. Clamp the worm gear at the top with a vise grip (I think Kuya Jon is correct in that you could skip this step because the transmission won't move when unscrewing, but I did it anyway just in case). Put a pipe wrench on the left tine shaft and unscrew it like it was a normal bolt. It's in there tight and it will take some force. When I unscrewed mine, the left bearing seal retainer, left bearing seal, and left bearing all came out with it. I just needed to replace the seals. I went to the right side, and with a screw driver carefully pried out the retainer. Then it's easy to just pull out the right seal with your finger. Put a new right seal in and insert the right retainer. Make sure the retainer is facing the correct way. I used a block of wood to tap mine in once I had it positioned because I was afraid to hit the retainer with a hammer. Now I put the tine shaft back in while holding the worm gear with the vise grip. Screw the shaft as far as it will go by hand and then go the rest of the way with a pipe wrench. Now came the tricky part. The right bearing did not slide right in. There was some resistance. I had to use a 1/2" threaded pvc pipe (not sure it needs to be threaded but that's what worked for me) longer than the tine shaft that was sticking out. I slip the pipe over the shaft against the bearing and tapped with a hammer. This drove the bearing in all the way. It needs to go in far enough to leave room for the seal and retainer. The plastic pvc allowed for this. Now put the right seal in. If the outer edge of the seal is only flush with the housing you did not tap the bearing in far enough. I made this mistake on my first try and tried to force the retainer in. Take it from me. It won't work. You will end up ordering another retainer to replace the one you mangled. Once in properly I slid the retainer over the shaft and then put a washer over that to tap against. The block of wood doesn't work on this side because the shaft is in the way. I used my pvc pipe again to tap against the washer and, wala, it worked like a charm. I hope this helps someone. All the other posts really helped me. Thanks!
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1answer

Replace tine shaft oil seals - Junior model

on my pony the disc came off when i removed all of my tine shafts. then i pulled the old seals out an drove the new ones in
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Oil seal for rear tine shaft

The serial number is located on a flat spot just above the right wheel shaft where the gear housing and the top gear cover meet. It will be a six digit number stamped in the metal.

Frank
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