Compressor gos to overlaod

Hello;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

Your problem is not your thermostat. In some models the compressor knocks out the overload relay. They relay could last a few seconds or a few weeks before the compressor knocks it out again. This is especially turn with the LG units.

You will need a multi-meter to check your compressor.

1.) Unplug your unit. Remove the bottom back cover.

2.) Remove the overload components to expose the 3 pins on the compressor.

3.) Inspect the pins on the compressor. Are they clean or are they damaged from heat (Steel melting).

4.) With your multi-meter, set the meter on the lowest Ohms. Read the Ohms between each of the pins. You will have 3 readings. One reading will be high and the other 2 readings will be lower. Add the 2 lower readings together. This value must equal the high reading within a few tenths.

I hope I am wrong. A new compressor depending on the model is $275-$450.00. Include a system filter for $40.00, plus new refrigerant $45.00 and the cost od an experienced technician $300.00.

Hello,
The relay can be tested by putting meter leads in the 2 holes on it where it attaches to the compressor and it should be closed (zero ohms of resistiance) if you have the rectangle one thats how to test it. If its older style and has the wire coils on top of it must turn it upside down but still closed w/zero ohms.

to test overload thermostat disconnect it from compressor and it to should be closed with zero ohms from spade to where wire connects to hole where it connects onto prong on compressor.

both the realy and overload should be removed from compessor to test

if both check good test compressor by one meter lead on prong where overload fits onto and other on one then the other prong. Both the start and run winding on compressor should be between 5-20 ohms if either is open compressor is dead

Gene

Compressor Start Relay/Overload or Compressor is bad. A bad compressor can cause Start Relay/Overload to go bad but the only way to know is to replace the Start Relay/Overload if you still have the same prob. or it works a week or so and it happens again the Compressor is bad or if luck is on your side it will work.

Make sure you have 120volts at relay if not jump out thermostat if it starts to run and stays running Replace the thermostat. If you have 120volts at relay and it is not running or it's kicking off and on replace Start Relay/Overload but a bad compressor can make a Start Relay go bad so if you have the same Prob. after replacing Start Relay/Overload Compressor is bad

Start Relay/Overload or Compressor is bad. A bad compressor can make a Start Relay/Overload go bad but the only way to find out if compressor or Start Relay/Overload is bad is to replace the Start Relay/Overload if it starts and stays running you fixed it if Prob. returns in a week or so or if you have the same Prob. after replacing the relay the compressor is bad.

Compressor is bad the clicking noise is the Start Relay/Overload is kicking on and off. compressor is warm because it's trying to start but can't Frigidaire is known for bad compressors. I don't think the Start Relay/Overload is bad because the compressor gets warm.

Good day,
Some kind of compressor problem. If it will run a true 30 seconds then it is either the start relay mounted on the side of the compressor hanging up and not releasing after the compressor starts or the main windings in the compressor are starting to short, causing the compressor to draw too much current followed by the protective overload shutting the compressor down.
The relay is pressed onto the compressor pins and can be removed.

A parts house should be able to test it for you. If bad, replace. If it tests good then the problem is internal to the compressor and would need the attention of a qualified tech.

P.S. If the unit is under 5 years of age, leave it alone and call for factory service. It may or may not be covered but if so it would be necessary to preserve the balance of the 5 year warranty.

HAVE YOU TRY A 3-N-1 COMPRESSOR BOOSTER|? YOUR LOCAL APPLIANCE PARTS STORE SHOULD HAVE THEM. TELL THEM THE SIZE OF YOUR FRIDGE AND COMPRESSOR AND THEY SHOULD BE ABLE GIVE YOU THE RIGHT ONE. FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE 3-N-1 AND CONNECT TO THE COMPRESSORS. BUT CONNECT THE TWO BLACK WIRES TO A EXTERNAL POWER(GET AN EXTENSION CORD AND CUT IT, WIRE NUT THE TWO WIRES TOGETHER). PLUG IT IN, IF THE COMPRESSOR KICKS OFF, YOU HAVE A BAD COMPRESSOR. IF IT RUNS WITHOUT KICKING OFF, THAT MEANS YOU ARE NOT GETTING POWER TO THE OVERLOAD RELAY TO TURN KICK ON COMPRESSOR. CHECK YOUR TEMP CONTROL INSIDE FRIDGE, AND THE DEFROST TIMER(MIGHT BE STUCK IN DEFROST)

Your unit is not a self defrosting freezer and consequently has no defrost timer. There are only four components required for cooling in your unit. The temperature control, behind the knob in the cabinet. The compressor at the back bottom. The start relay and overload in a box attached to the compressor. The run capacitor attached to the start relay. A failure of any of those will cause the compressor not to run.

Check the wall outlet to be sure you have power.

If the compressor IS running but not cooling, the compressor itself may be defective or the gas charge may have leaked out. Compressor and refrigeration problems are likely beyond your capabilities in terms of knowledge and equipment.

The temperature control may be tested by all connecting the wires of the control to ONE terminal after unplugging the freezer and marking down teh original locations of the wires. If the compressor runs and cools after this by-pass then change the control and return the wiring to the original locations.

If the above does not make the compressor run the next possibility is changing both the relay/overload assembly AND the run capacitor. If these fail to correct the problem you need a new compressor but you will likely NOT be able to return the parts replaced.

Good Luck

The S terminal should read zero when you invert the relay. The M terminal should be zero at all times through the relay. If you follow the coil wires on the relay you will find they go from the line connection to the M terminal. M meaning main or run terminal. When current is drawn through the M terminal it pulls in the contact for start to the S terminal. When the compressor comes up to speed the current drops off and the start contact opens allowing the compressor to continue to run on the M terminal.