Rohl 3810 kitchen pullout faucet leaks under the sink

contact ROHL customer Service, request a new hose (part number R45158), detach the end on the underside with a wrench and pull it out. Insert new hose through the topside guide neck and reconnect on the bottom connection.

leaking around handle?Turn water off under sink.remove handle,cover plate,unscrew valve stem assembly,and turn the two pieces apart to expose o ring,and replace

If there is a hole on the spout itself then you should go ahead and replace th.e whole faucet. This will save you both time and money in the long run

The spray head will need replacing, it unscrews and the new one will fit right on

http://docs.homeclick.com/PE-Links/Rohl/Rohl-A3608-specs.pdf

Check out this web site and it looks like it should be a o ring at the base, anyway I hope this will be helpful.
It has a breakdown of faucet internal parts.

replace the faucet if thighting the fittings does not work

you have to locate the water shut off valves before you attempt removing the water lines, hopefully they will be located on the lines under your sink, if not you will have to shut the water main off coming into the house. After you have shut the water off and disconnected the lines, look under your sink at the back were your faucet comes through the sink and you will find the fasteners, unscrew these counter clockwise and the faucet will lift out .

If you have a 3" hole I would definately say that is a special order faucet, But if 3" is a typo you can get what are called "cockhole covers" to cover the hole you're not using. What i usually do is, find a faucet that will use the 3 holes and install a soap dispenser, filtered water spigot, or a instant hot water spigot to fill the fourth hole.
If 3" is not a typo you might try to contact a granite countertop co. or call Jacuzzi and install a larger plate that will cover large holes and have new (smaller) holes drilled for a standard faucet

hope this helps

With a small flat blade screwdriver, carefully remove the red and white plastic button on the front of the faucet. Turn off the water supply. Then, raise the handle like you're turning on the water and move the handle slowly left and right until you can see an Allen screw through the hole where the button was. With the correct size Allen driver, remove the screw and the handle will come off the faucet.

Many new faucets require some assembly before mounting to the sink; if that is the case, follow the manufacturer's directions. With most pullout sprayer faucets, the sprayer needs to be threaded through the faucet body first. Insert the rubber gasket between the base plate of the faucet and the sink top to create a watertight seal. If no gasket is provided, pack the cavity of the faucet with plumber's putty, then insert the faucet body through the holes in the sink top. Thread the mounting nuts provided onto the faucet shafts, then center the threaded shafts in the sink's holes and tighten the nuts firmly. Many manufacturers include a special long socket specifically to aid in tightening the mounting nuts. A hole in the socket accepts the shank of a screwdriver, guiding it as you tighten the nuts. If you're mounting the faucet on an installed sink, use this method. If you're installing a pullout sprayer faucet--or a faucet with a separate sprayer--now is the time to connect the sprayer to the faucet body. Check the manufacturer's directions to see if using pipe-wrap tape for this connection is recommended. Use an adjustable wrench to tighten the connection. Most pullout sprayer faucets and faucets with separate sprayers come with a counterweight that attaches to the sprayer hose. This weight helps retract the hose back in to the sink cabinet after you've used the sprayer. Follow the manufacturer's directions on where to secure the weight, and take care not to crimp the hose as you attach the weight. Hook up the faucet's hot and cold supply lines to the water supply shutoff valves under the sink. If necessary, gently bend the copper tubes coming out of the faucet for better access and connect flexible supply tubes to them. Simply wrap a couple of turns of pipe-wrap tape around the threaded nipples on the valves and connect the tubes. Tighten the nuts with an adjustable wrench.