Battery test failed - Eaton Computers & Internet

the battery is dead.
next is jumper cable jump starts.
or fuses blown.
but I bet the battery voltage is not 12.6vdc,
and is below 8vdc, dead;. or below 10v
below 10 computers fail
below 8v the stater solenoid chatters and fails.
most modern cars 10v fails hard.
lights can work at 10v but are dim
the lamps are like 10amps and starter uses 300amps.
so lamp tests are useless to a starter, see why./?
30 times more current for a starter,
load test the battery first, or jump start it.
then if battery is ok there are lots of things to fail
in circuit order

1. battery dead (fails load test)
2. fuse blown
3. key switch failing (i bet not)
4. PRNDL switch bad. (learn to crank in Neutral too)
5. starter relay bad.
6. starter bad.

does the relay click at least?heard.<<<a savvy tech test.
good luck.

Here is my Alternator 101 class for today, what can fail. (all) Jeff nails it. (2.4 or 4.3L engine I can not guess) both are internal REG.

1. battery is bad, if shorted cell in battery , altenator shuts down to prevent battery explode and acid every where. so test the battery first, for sure over 5 years old.
2. alternator swaps and blew the 100amp fuse there , next time pull battery NEG lug to replace any ALT. or blow it again you will
3. wires bad, or unplugged or connected backwards
4. the rear ALT plug has 4 pins all 4 must be wired end to end correctly,no hack jobs seen here. and ALt lamp pin next.
5. the cluster lamp ALT must not be burned out or self excitation fails and alt is born dead. replace the ALT lamp NOw. if blowned.out. in IP cluster.
6. bad alternator or wrong one there now.(hack jobs)
7. Engine idle RPM way way below 800 RPM and the ALT goes off line then,.
8. Fan belt slip to alt. pulley, (sorry typed this out of order)
9. a battery and anD alt both can be carried in hand to autostore and they test it, better stores do that, they load test the battery and spin test the alt.
10. tests: more, put battery from good car to here and test now.
11. jumper start the car, using 2nd running car, or ask a tow truck for a jump.
12. below I pust red donuts on all fail points 3 fase MUST BE GOOD , 0 OHMS MESSURED. best is with battery unplugged never use meter DMM ohms with voltage present.(tech 101)

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the lamp must be good as vast regulators fail , reg is inside ALT.

check fuses and wiring connections --was the battery tested before alternator was replaced --test battery and alternator battery may be failing or has failed --alternator improper wiring -or new doesnt mean free from defects

The battery will be held in place by a 'carrier' or retaining bar which must be first removed by undoing a couple of bolts/nuts.

You remove the battery by first disconnecting the positive lead (the red lead..) and then the earth .. the black lead.

When you replace the battery you connect the black lead FIRST.

To test the battery you need to put a voltmeter across the terminals and get a reading of 12v+ but be aware - even a failing battery can give reading of 12v. The ideal way of testing a battery is to leave it connected and check the voltage/amps when the engine is cranking.

Best option is to drive your car to an exhaust/battery shop and get them to test the battery in situ. These checks are usually free and will tell you exactly if the battery is failing/failed or not..

.. Many people change their battery and then find the problem is still there. Nothing wrong with the old battery..

Go and get it checked at a battery supplier/shop.

If under warranty have it repaired/replaced. If not under warranty then some basic troubleshooting. Most likely a battery issue howerver;


To test the fencer output you can power the fencer from either a standard 6V lantern battery (6V fencer) or a standard 12V automobile battery (12V fencer). You need to rig wiring observing polarity.


To test battery, remove and check voltage with digital volt meter.
A fully charged 6V SLA battery should read 6.2V minimum and a 12V should read 12.4V minimum. If a 6V battery measures 4 volts or less then battery has likely failed. Likewise if a 12V battery measures 10 volts or less it has likely failed. Before replacing a suspect failed battery, connect the battery to any standard 6V/12V automobile charger and see if it will take a charge. After the charging period;

• If battery takes a charge, reinstall back in fencer and see if fencer output is hot. If fencer fails output, repair/replace fencer. Else verify the fencer is charging the battery. While battery is installed in fencer measure battery voltage with a digital volt meter. Typical minimum voltage is 13.5V for 12V and 6.7V for 6V. If fencer fails to meet minimum battery charging voltage, likely the fencer solar charging system has failed, repair/replace.

• If battery fails to charge, likely battery is end of life. However fencer could still not work. Test fencer with alternate power source (see previous tests). If fencer ok, replace battery.

dim battery light means the battery is not charging. Check drive belt condition and tension. Have a load test done on the battery to eliminate a failing cell. Clean battery posts and terminals to shiny clean and make sure they are tight. Have an output test done on the alternator as there may be a failed diode in the rectifier allowing ac current through to the battery

The first step is to check all of the battery cables and their connections. Insure that they are CLEAN and TIGHT (visual and physical inspection should ALWAYS be FIRST).

When you are satisfied that there are no problems with corrosion or loose connections, then you must use a battery load tester to load test the battery. On modern batteries, It is also recommended that you use a battery analyzer that can test the battery impednce. Sometimes a battery will show High impedence - even if it can pass a "load" test. Replace the battery if tests indicate it is necessary.

Please note that the rest of the charging system cannot be properly tested until the battery and the cables are all in good working condition.
Any attempts to check the alternator and its circuits with bad cables or battery are going to be, at the very best, inaccurate

Once the battery connections and battery are in good working order, then the alternator output must be tested. It should be tested for voltage output both at idle and at high RPM with a load applied. It should be tested for maximum amperage output to see if it coinsides with the alternator's amperage rating. It should also be tested for AC current or "ripple", indicating shorted diodes.

If the alternator fails any of the tests, then either the alternator should be replaced or the alternator control and output circuits must be diagnosed and repaired (it depends on WHICH test or tests it fails).

This is the wiper motor failing...But to be safe unplug wiper motor,turn on wiper switch,connect test light to negative side of battery or good solid metal ground and stick probe in connector.if it is not working and the test light is not on then the wiper switch has failed.....and if the test light comes on at connector the wiper motor has failed..Since it works intermittently have an assistant to work the wiper switch and test a number of times to be sure.You can buy a cheap test light that will be good enough to check this at any auto parts store...BEFORE YOU BEGIN YOUR TEST MAKE SURE TEST LIGHT
HAS GOOD GROUND BY CLAMPING TO NEGATIVE SIDE OF BATTERY AND TOUCH PROBE TO POSITIVE SIDE OF BATTERY TO ENSURE GOOD CONNECTION...LIGHT WILL COME ON.

the computer needs to be reset by performing a code erase then drive 500 miles

It's either a weak battery or a failing starter motor.

Best thing to do is to go to a local auto parts place (Checker/PepBoys/Autozone) and have them test the battery.

If the battery tests OK, then your starter is failing.