Had a fire and need to rewire

the fridge section will not freeze ice cream as the lowest setting 1- is not cold enough
The thermostat is normally on the side panel inside the compartment and is measured 1-10 with 4 being around the best setting
if you are referring to a 2 door fridge where the top or bottom section is the freezer, that temp will be preset in the factory and has nothing to do with the thermostat but indicates - door not sealed properly
compressor failure and needs a technician to check out the reason why

buy the right one, DANFOSS CONTROL KIT
parts and service manual, http://download.partstown.com/is-bin/intershop.static/WFS/Reedy-PartsTown-Site/-/en_US/manuals/DEL-4SERIES_spm.pdf
replacement parts,http://www.partstown.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/WFS/Reedy-PartsTown-Site/en_US/-/USD/ViewEasyAskSearch-Start?Action=CA_AttributeSelected&Question=Model=%27UC4048%27&CategoryPath=All%20Products%2F%2F%2F%2FAttribSelect%3DManufacturer%3D%27Delfield%27&CatalogCategoryID=

Hello;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

I am going to assume your compressor and condenser fan is running. Your condenser fan is in the lower back of your freezer.

You will need to remove the back cover in your freezer. There are 6 screws holding it on.

Check the following (Cover Removed):

1.) Frozen Drain - Your freezer goes into a defrost mode every 8-10 hours, where your freezer shuts down except for the lights, and your defrost heater turns on for about 20-30 minutes to defrost your cooling coil. If you have a frozen drain, the condensate builds up behind the back wall and icing the cooling coil, restricting air flow. You must defrost the coil.

2.) Freezer Fan Motor Failure - Having removed the back wall observe if the freezer fan motor is running. If not replace.

3.) Refrigerant Restriction or Leak - If you observe a large build-up of ice in the upper right hand corner, then you have a restriction or leak. The cost of repair would be about $400.00

4.) Bad Thermostat - In the upper right hand corner of you cooling coil, attached is your thermostat. They can explode, where the back of the thermostat will raise up.


You can also check it with a multi-meter, set to the lowest Ohms (Omega Symbol). You need to cut the wires, leaving enough wire length to rewire back in. Put the thermostat in a glass of ice water for 10 minutes. After, it should Ohm out around 16. It is reads '0' or infinity it is bad. Below 15 or 16 it is bad

The two pieces are Relay and Overload.

If you are using a supco relay/overload combination that has three wires with terminals and two wires with stripped ends the wiring is as such.

Red-Run Terminal, White-Start Terminal, Black-Common Terminal (Overload was wired to this)

Stripped wires are connected to line cord along with condenser fan wires.

Wiring diagram of the chest freezer turned into chest fridge. The junction box is not required if all connections are made inside the fridge service compartment. Active (A) connection passes via latching relay terminals
inside the thermostat.

Additional information can find HERE.

Hope helps; tell us news.

Good day,
You will need an ohm meter to check the parts.
Your defrost system has failed.
It is made up of 3 components, 2 of which are located behind the rear panel in the freezer compartment.
Remove the rear panel. There is a cooling coil, that has a calrod heating element that runs along it's bottom. As well there is a defrost thermostat ( a small round 1" disk) which is located on the top of the same coil. Both should be checked with an ohm meter to test for continuity. The heater should read no more than 30 ohms, the thermostat ( IT MUST STILL BE COLD BELOW 30 DEGREES) should read zero ohms. Note: The heater rarely fails, the thermostat has a high failure rate.

The third item is a timer, or a solid state adaptive defrost control. Depending on age, and model, it is located , behind the kick plate on the bottom front.
Or, in the fresh food compartment on the roof.
If it is a timer, you can turn the timer shaft when the machine is running until the machine shuts off. With it still turned on, wait 40 minutes.
If the machine turns itself back on, the timer is O.K. if not, the timer is bad, and needs replaced.
If the Main heater checks O.K. and it has a solid state control, then replace the thermostat in the freezer compartment, and the solid state board.

Below is an excellant tutorial on defrost systems.

http://www.appliance411.com/faq/howdefrostworks.shtml
Thank you for using FixYa

Good day,
They do a good job of hiding them, but it should be in the machine compartment near the compressor.
Not too hard to remove, but you must use caution, in removing the long skinny capillary tube that is inserted into the tube that runs into the cabinet. NO, IT IS NOT A WIRE. It carries a small refrigerant charge inside and if broken, the control is ruined.
Note: My experience, is the problem is a small loss of refrigerant charge in 90% of the cases, not the thermostat.
If the thermostat will not shut off, and the unit runs for in excess of 24 hours, the interior temperature should be colder than -10 degrees. Check first.
The purpose of a thermostat is not to turn the machine on, it's purpose is to turn it off.
If the freon charge is low, it will not reach the sensing capillary tube of the thermostat described above.

the defrost circuit has a problem, allowing the frost/ice buildup..
remove the shelves, and back lower cover in the rear of the freezer to expose the evaporator coil, defrost heater, and defrost thermostat.
the defost heater should have continuity through it and the defrost thermostat will have continuity when frozen but test open when warmed.. if either bad replace.
if both test good look for bad connections in the freezer compartment wiring, and moly connectors otherwise the temperature controls are bad and it is an electronic assembly that incorporates the temperature controls with the deforst timer controls..
hope this helps,
best of luck,
ttfn

You have a clear and present fire hazard that should be looked at ASAP. Do not leave this appliance unattended and you should unplug it any time you are away from it until professional repair arrives.

Good Luck.

Set the thermostat to the coldest and check if there's power to the compresor relay , if yes the relay or the compresor are bad (in this case replace the relay which is the cheaper first step ,but if the compresor still won't start probably is burned out) If there isn't power to the compresor put a jumper wire to the thermostat if the compresor runs replace the thermostat.