True Freezers - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

tru would be a possible source.

True Freezers | Answered on Mar 10, 2019

I need A wire diagram for a freezer mo.49f

True 72 cu. ft.... | Answered on Aug 29, 2018

I am assuming you are relating to the evaporator fan(s) not running. If this is the case, some units have a 'Klixon" type thermostat in the evaporator so when the evaporator coil temp reaches a predetermined temperature, the fans come on. You may have a bad "Fan Delay" (Klixon) or the coil is not reaching the proper temp to activate it to turn on the fans. I would check the wiring diagram on the unit for this part to see if this unit has it in the system.

True Freezers | Answered on Jun 12, 2018

call a repair service we do not have testing facility

True Freezers | Answered on Jan 31, 2018

ofcourse you should have it checked or BUY A NEW ONE

True Freezers | Answered on Jan 10, 2018

Request a T-49F-RC wiring diagram directly from True.

True 49 cu. ft.... | Answered on Nov 20, 2017

Did you replace or add a filter drier at compressor replacement? It may have a partial blockage at the inlet to the evaporator.

True 49 cu. ft.... | Answered on Oct 30, 2017

This web site has the manual for this freezer. Take a look and see if this answers your question.

True Freezers | Answered on Sep 11, 2017

I would try this: unplug unit and use a vacuum cleaner and vacuum out the entire area. Not sure what you mean by "running really hard"? If you mean noisy, then see if you can see source after cleaning. Try this and let me know if I can be of any further help.

True 12 cu. ft.... | Answered on Jun 26, 2017

Most all commercial freezers like yours have, what is called, a fan delay. It is located in the evaporator case and is usually attached on or very close to the actual cooling coil. It may also be a combination switch known as a defrost terminator/ fan delay. It's purpose is to keep from circulating warm air. If the cooling coil does not reach a preset temp, the fans do not come one. Another thing is that the fan motor may just be bad. If you have more than one fan, then chances are that it's going to be the fan delay. I would start there to see that either the fan delay switch is bad or there is a reason that the coil is not getting cold enough to activate the switch.

True 49 cu. ft.... | Answered on Jun 25, 2017

most freezers have 2 controls. 1 is a defrost terminator and the other is a fan delay. the delay and the defrost terminator can sometimes be a "2 in 1" type switch. you would have to study the wiring diagram. The delay will not let the fans come on untill the evap reaches a preset temperature. take another look at the diagram. It may be that the evap is not getting cold enough. you may have a refrigeration issue.

True 49 cu. ft.... | Answered on Jun 17, 2017

Request the wiring diagram directly from True.

True Freezers | Answered on Feb 22, 2017 Check out this manual. has instructions.

True Freezers | Answered on Feb 11, 2017 check out this manual. has instruction for lots of what you want.

True Freezers | Answered on Feb 11, 2017

Only from the manufacturer.

True Freezers | Answered on Nov 03, 2016

if seals are in good condition
no sizable water leaks from cabinet

one should suspect the thermostat is no shutting off compressor
test or replace thermostat

True Freezers | Answered on Oct 08, 2016

To me it sounds like, from what I am reading that your compressor may be the root cause if it is short cycling and you changed the thermostat and moved the thermocouple and the problem persists. Was this working fine till recently or did you just aquire the freezer and noticed it is not performing correctly?
Here's the simple procedure I use whenever I run into one that's 'short-cycling' (trying to start, clicking on/off every few seconds, or in some cases, every minute or two).

Basically, using a digital ohmmeter, you pull the compressor's relay and overload off its three terminals, then check the resistance between each of these three pins. Older relays looked a bit different than the solid state ones, but pull off pretty much the same way.

First note the two pins that read the highest resistance. The one that remains is the 'common', to which one end of both the start and main windings connect. (The common's not always the top pin, so you'll want to do this test to be sure)
Reading from that common to each of the other two, carefully note each reading. Then measure back across the two with the highest resistance, ignoring the common. That reading should be the exact total of the two individual coil readings, because you're reading through both coils in series now.

If those two sets of readings aren't within about 1/2 ohm of each other, then one of the compressor windings is shorted, and if it runs at all, it'll run hot and usually end up short-cycling on its overload protector. If the windings test OK, but it still won't run, then I connect a test cord and try to run it manually. If I can't start it that way, it's most likely a mechanical problem, most often binding bearings, and the 'bottom line's the same: either the compressor or freezer will have to be replaced.dcramer531_131.jpgdcramer531_132.jpg

Did the new thermostat come with an adjustment screw in the back? if so you might want to play with that as that can also cause this issue if it is not set correctly.

True 49 cu. ft.... | Answered on Aug 20, 2016

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