How do i get back my video settings? put in wrong ones now won't work

It is possible you are using the wrong type of battery. A lot of electronics require you to use either Lithium-Ion or less powerful ones. I had this happen once by putting in batteries that were the right size, but were meant for more powerful devices. If you have a cheap set of the right size batteries laying around that are a different type, try those.

You had the cam sensor back probed & scoped
& it tested bad?

Or you just got a code

Codes do not tell you what is wrong or to
replace something

I had this problem too, and finally figured out what was wrong. If you have cleared a jam and have put the nail gun back together, then all you get is a 'thunk' when you try to drive a brad, you have put it back together wrong, as I did. Take the two screws out and pull out all four pieces -- three plates and one skinny 'T' shaped piece. Look inside the unit and you'll see a pointed piece, which is the hammer that drives the brad in. This next step is key: put the first plate back in (the one that is flat on both sides) making sure that it slides in UNDER the hammer. The hammer fits loosely in its housing, so it may help to turn the nailer upside down so that the hammer falls down, giving you the room you need to get the plate in--again, so that it's UNDER the hammer when you turn the nailer back over. Once you have done this part, simply slide the second piece in (the one with the fluted strip down the middle), slide it in fluted side up, then the 'T' piece (with the 'T' in first) then the last piece with the wider groove that contains the 'T' piece. Replace screws and you're back in business! This information may be in the instructions, but I have long ago thrown those away.

Hook a monitor to the video output, if no change! the video graphics chip is bad located on the motherboard.

There is more than likely an issue with your amp, it could've happened from a wire being shorted to ground or a damaged sub causing bizarre impedance issues at your amp. Uninstal it and have it bench tested.

Try unplugging both the set and the box (if used) and plug back and let both reboot.

Also see if set works with a DVD etc via rear audio/video connections--if it does you should be able to route signal there and control it with a box.

1 coil pack is for cylinder 1 & 3 . The 1st & 3rd....moving back from the belts. 1 is on the top, three on the bottm of the coil. 2 & 4 should be the same, 2nd cylinder, 2nd back from the belts & top on the coil pack. 4 the last plug & lowest on the second coil pack. PLEASE NOTE: , A Handyman's Service manual, from an auto store can VERIFY THIS. My last experience was with the 1987- 1991 GM "Quad" 4 engines. One of the other experts on "FixYa" corrected a mistake I made on a newewr model. SO I WOULD CHECK this advise to A MANUAL. I was wrong on the other one I answewred, & do not want to add to your frustration. I have looked around my textbooks, I do not have one on that car, I have given it away.

The problem with amps is they generate lots of heat when they are working and semi-conductors don't like heat, so overtime they fail. In your case either somekind of protection circuit has stopped an overload or one of the main semi-conductors that does the work has failed. It's off to the repair shop with it!

If it's a Linksys wireless router, then the default password is "admin" in small letters (no caps). Don't worry about the username, it won't require it, until you get into the settings. If it's a Belkin, then Google: Belkin default password, and it will then give you a list of default passwords, depending on your model type. Good luck.

you might check your switch sounds like to me that your two lower speed sides of the switch maybe burnwed out.