Either the motor bound up by the the blower wheel or the run winding is bad on the motor itself. Once you access the blower wheel area you'll know which situation that you are dealing with,
If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3
SOURCE: Kenmore Electric Dryer 68731
If still heating, clean out vent and check for kinks. Also, REMOVE PLUG FIRST!! Remove back and remove four screw holding filter duct assembly at bottom left. Pull duct toward rear and reach into bottom of duct and remove lint. Also, wash out filter screen.
SOURCE: dryer works for few minutes then stops
clothes can open the door if door latch is weak, causing door opening and stopping the cycle, or a bad automatic sensor
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite HE3 Dryer clothes not dry after cycle
it sounds like a clog in vent.if yours vents up thru roof you may need to have a chimney sweep come out and sweep vent.check and make sure the vent hose is net kinked or full of lint.
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Turning Off before clothes are dry...
Repair of
a Kenmore Electric Dryer Model 110.62942100
Dryer not heating
I just spent several hours
repairing my electric clothes dryer, and wanted to share my experience with
others that may wish to do a similar repair. Some of my time was spent reading online postings similar to
this one. The majority of my time
was spent driving a few times to the Sears Parts Outlet, until I finally got
all of the right parts. I could
have saved myself a lot of time and effort by doing some simple testing up
front. And these tests are real
simple, which I will explain below.
I wish I knew then what I know now about the repair and troubleshooting
steps. It was actually quite easy.
First, the Owner’s Manual is
vague about the repair. Under
troubleshooting, there is the category of “Not Drying Satisfactorily” with a
possible cause that “One fuse is blown or circuit breaker is tripped. The dryer will appear to operate, but
you will not get any heat.” The
solution says “Replace fuse or reset breaker”. In my case, the circuit breaker was obviously not tripped
since the blower motor and controls were still working on the dryer. With that, it felt like the Thermal Fuse
3390719 was the culprit.
Start by unplugging the
dryer. Then, the Toe Panel at the
front bottom of the dryer comes off easily by inserting a flat head screwdriver
along the top edge of the panel, about 4” from the left and the right
sides. Pull forward as the
screwdriver presses on the retaining clips. The panel is supported by two clips at the bottom, and will
then just lift off.
What I found when the toe
panel was removed was several years of lint, dust, and animal hair. A surprising amount all over. Having seen this, I suggest that part
of Spring cleaning is to remove the toe panel and vacuum the inside of a dryer. Next, to reach the thermal fuse easier,
remove the black metal lint duct assembly. Start by removing the lint screen from inside the
dryer. Then, remove the two ¼”
sheet metal screws on the left and the right of the duct. Now, the only thing holding the lint
duct in place is a metal clip at the bottom left, which is pinched in place to
the dryer frame. I used a flat
head screwdriver to pop it off.
The lint duct assembly can now be removed. Here also, I was surprised at how much lint had built up
inside the duct. Clean it out
thoroughly. Any build up can
restrict air flow and waste energy, or be a direct cause to the No Heat
problems of the dryer due to poor air flow and heat build up.
With the lint duct out of the
way, the thermal fuse is accessible on the top right of the blower housing, as
well as the Thermistor 3976615 on its right. What I should have done right here is take the blue wires
off of the thermal fuse connectors, and tested it in place for continuity with
the fuse still in place. Clean off any dust built up on the inner face of the fuse itself. A basic tester sounded a beep when I touched both connectors, which
indicates continuity – or that it is still a good fuse. Install new fuse
if needed, and reconnect the wires.
I would do a little more
testing first prior to attempting to turn the dryer back on. After all, if the fuse blew, there was
a reason. There may still be other
things to consider, and you don’t want to risk blowing a brand new fuse.
At this point, I firmly
recommend removing the Heater Box and Wire Heater Element assembly. I say this because it actually becomes
easier to clean out burnt lint as well as test a few more things. There was enough lint all around and
inside this and in the back of the assembly that could have caused overheating
due to poor sensor readings.
Start by removing the heat
plate at the front. Then, disconnect
the six wires from the three devices:
heater element, Thermal Cut-Off 3977394 and the Thermostat 3390291. I wrote down the color sequence of the
wires to make certain to put them back on the same way. Next, remove the two screws at the
bottom of the mounting plate that holds the assembly in place. The heat assembly should now wiggle
around some, and be connected at the back of the dryer. There are no screws at the back – all
you need to do is rotate the heater assembly counter clockwise about a quarter
turn, and it should come out. The
entire heater assembly can now be removed from the dryer.
With the Greenlee, I tested
for continuity on all three devices: Heater Element, Thermal Cut-Off, and the Thermostat.
All three should return an audible beep from the tester, indicating
continuity exists. In my case,
only the Heater Element was bad and actually had a break in it from
overheating. One screw holds the heater element in
the housing, so it is easily removed.
I had to press on the housing a little to unbind the sides of the heater
element, and then it slid right out.
The housing can now be cleaned out. Assuming the thermal cut-off and the thermostat tested fine
for continuity, all I would do is reach inside the heater housing and clean off
the lint and dust build up on these devices, since they appear to be
working. Install the new heater
element.
While I had everything apart,
I cleaned out the flexible duct in the back, vacuumed everywhere inside and
out, and even used compressed air to clean out any remaining lint and dust that
I could. Reassemble the heater box
into the dryer in reverse order.
Make sure all of the wires are properly reconnected to all of the
devices. Make sure everything is
screwed back together properly.
Now, reassemble the lint duct by attaching the clip to the dryer and
setting the duct in place, and then screwing the two screws back in place. Plug the dryer in and turn it on. If all went well, the
heater element should glow orange and there should be heat
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