I have the unit plugged in to a working outlet, it is not installed into the wall currently, but it has no power at all. I changed the 20 amp fuse located in the Latch Board and it still has no power.
There are TCOs (thermal cutouts) which also can fail or blow,
resulting in "no power" conditions.
All but one of
them should be accessible without taking the oven from the wall.
At
our
Web site, we have a video available
showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5
minutes.
The full service manual is
here.
You can find helpful exploded views and order GE parts
here.
BUT there is one TCO which has thinner wires
of a color other than black or white. This is the hood TCO and should read
"open" or "infinite" which is correct.
All other TCOs should read shorted or virtually zero ohms on a continuity test,
as should the fuse.
The cavity TCO is only accessible by removing the oven from the wall, then
taking off its outer cover.
When
taking the oven from the wall, the installation instructions are very handy, and
it's best to have two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.
You
can download GE owner's manuals and installation instructions
here.
We're
happy
to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating
of our answer.
SOURCE: GE microwave oven - just stopped stopped working
A microwave can be dead for many reasons.
If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.
If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.
Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.
When checking thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.
If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.
If it goes dead or blows the breaker when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.
If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.
You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.
If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.
If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
NOTE: There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting.
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: Advantium 120 Complete black out
Since you've already checked the fuses, my next suspects would be the thermal cutouts (or thermostats or thermal fuses, depending on your exact model number). One would be located on the right side of the chassis right above the magnetron. The other would be located on the left side of the chassis. It's the flame sensor. You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383 Advantium 120 is not actually the model number - you have to look on the tag around the door or inside the cavity for that. If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk I appreciate your thoughtful rating.
SOURCE: Broken Bottom Latch Pawl GE Advantium 120 Microwave
You have to separate the door panels (as shown in the attached photo)
and then you'll see the previously hidden screws you need to remove.
Or you can watch a YouTube video (not a video I
made) that demonstrates how it's done.
You can usually find
helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full
model number here.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful
rating of our answer.
SOURCE: GE Profile Advantium 120 Microwave (Model SCA1000DBB03)
We have
the service manual for this model and have uploaded it to our
site here to help you.
You will need the free
Acrobat Reader
to view or print it in case you don't have it.
A microwave can be dead
for many reasons.
It
may be the fuse, which is usually located behind the grille, on
the
floor of the oven behind the control panel, between the door switches,
or on the filter board near where the cord comes into the unit.
If
the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO)
/ thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body
of the oven.
If it goes dead for a
while during or after cooking
then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing
the magnetron thermostat to open.
Then when it cools, it
closes the circuit and allows power through again.
When
checking TCOs or thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat,
that should read
open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.
So don't let that fool you.
If the cavity thermostat
needs to be checked or replaced you'll need to pull the oven from the
wall.
If
so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have
two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.
You can download GE
owner's manuals and installation instructions here.
If it went dead almost
immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted
high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few
seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing
high-voltage transformer.
If
it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open
or close
the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch
mount.
If it's intermittent or
random, it may be a bad
connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or
even an intermittent fuse.
You should do a
continuity test on
the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of
course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in,
then test it again.
If you remove the fuse,
then press the meter
leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and
make a bad fuse appear to be good.
If you or someone you
know
decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and
disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.
There
should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the
control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is
very
helpful
when troubleshooting & testing.
You can usually find
helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full
model number here.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful
rating of our answer.
SOURCE: ge advantium 120 microwave oven completely dead
You have a bad cavity switch. I would guess it is the one behind the vent cover, toward the left side of unit. You would need to remove unit from wall. Remove outer housing to expose cavity switch. You can see it from vent cover, I would test all cavity switches before removing from wall. You should have a diagram of unit folded up behind vent cover towards right side of unit. This tells all workings of unit. Will also tell where all cavity switches are.
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