My compressor don't come on so obviously nothing

the ptc overload/relay on the compressor is bad and not starting the compressor,remove back cover unplug the ptc off the compressor and replace it with a new exact replacement part

how long have you waited since it shut off? it may be overheating. if you've waited for a while and it still won't power up, you may need to test the power supply. if you don't have a power supply tester and most people don't you can remove it from the case and take it to any pc shop. they may charge you a couple bucks but most shops won't do that. if it's bad it will need replaced obviously, if it's not let us know :)

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/joel_63c670a84e9f6a97

i don't know much about these units,don't work on them but work on sub zeros and have helped out some customers that have me look at them,usually what i find is when they are cool but not cold is the coil is blocked with dust and the heat can't escape from the machine,i use a shop vac,i vac out as much of the dust that i can see and then set it up to blow and blow out the coil,after doing this it usually works

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.

Sounds like the cold control has stuck . Unplug the two wires from the cold control and plug them together. Turn one wire over and plug it into the other. away from the cold control.
The cold control is the knob in the ref that turns it on and off and has numbers on it. (Thermostat)
If it runs then that cold control (Thernostat) is the problem.
If that doesn't work DO THIS:
The relay on the compressor may need replaced
A relay starts the compressor with a higher voltage and then quickly kicks out
Thats what is happening with yours
Its best for a tech to replace The relay but you can do it
Take your model number to your Local Appliance parts store they will have a diagram
showing you how to install the relay. Its called a hard start relay
also try hooking the two wires together on the cold control to route around the cold control.

If you need more help GO HERE:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

Thank you for using fixya
Leo Ponder
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Well a freezer is easy to repair. The circuit goes from one side of the power cord to the cold control and down to the compressor then out to the other side of the power cord. Id the control or compressor relay is open then she won't freeze. All the parts to it are listed HERE.
From the list I see an overload for the compressor. If that one is open it won't freeze. Bypass the temp control wires to see if she runs.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Good day!!!!!

If the refrigerator isn't cool, check to see if the light comes on when you open the door. Next check to see if the thermostat is set properly. If both of these are OK, then check to see if the compressor is running. See if the compressor motor is running. The compressor is in a case with no visible moving parts. It is usually located at the back of the refrigerator near the bottom. If it's humming, or making a steady noise, and your refrigerator is still not cooling properly, there could be a problem with one or more various components.
Refrigerators have either a mechanical defrost timer, or an ADC (Adaptive Defrost Control). If your refrigerator has a mechanical timer, set the cold control to the coldest setting and then advance the defrost timer. You can manually advance the timer with a screwdriver. Insert the screwdriver into the advancement pinion and turn clockwise a 1/4 to 3/8's of a turn. If the compressor starts, replace the defrost timer. For further help, you'll want to call a professional appliance repair technician.
Sometimes you can hear a click-buzz-click sound coming from the compressor. This is the relay/overload at work. If you hear this, power is getting to the compressor. If you do, something is wrong with either the compressor or the compressor starting components. If you have a newer model with solid-state starting components, you may not hear anything at all. If there is power to the starting components, you may be able to test each part and replace any bad parts. There is also a 3-in-1 unit that may work on your model which replaces all the components in one unit. If the compressor still won't start, you have a bad compressor and need to replace it. If it does start, wire the 3-in-1 part in permanently. Make sure the one you buy is rated for the horsepower of your appliance.
If you don't hear anything, you can take the cover off the side of the compressor and test for voltage at the two leads. If no voltage is present, it's time to check the cold control. To test if the cold control is bad, you can temporarily jump the two wires at the cold control. If you get power to the compressor after doing so, the cold control needs to be replaced.

I hope this information will be helpful..Thanks for using fixya..

The air conditioning system has a pressure switch that won't let the compressor engage if the refrigerant is too low. You seem to have some sort of leak ... if something slow then one of the
refill and lube/seal kits from the auto parts store should get you going. Get one with a gauge so you don't over charge. Obviously if a major leak then repairs are in order.

Whom ever tried to do the A/C repairs,
obviously failed to do so.

You have to decide what you want to do next

Writing a book to tell you how the work should
have been done, won't help you, unless your going
to do all your own vehicle work

Usually that happens when the ignition coil gets hot. Not sure if your car has one. It looks like a round cylinder with a spark plug wire connected to it.

HOW MANY MILES ALOT IT REALLY SOUNDS LIKE YOUR O2 SENSOR OK LOCATED ON THE EXAUST PIPE CLOSE TO ENGINE UNDER THE HOOD THEY CONTROL YOUR FUEL MIXTUER FOR HOT AND COLD LIKE A CHOKE . IF ITS BAD THE ITS FLOODING IT OUT WHEN HOT AND YOU GET ROTTEN GAS MILAGE BECAUSE YOUR FUEL PRESSURES ARE FINE REGULATORS EITHER WORK OR THEY DON'T AND IT THEY DON'T YOUR TRUCK WON'T RUN O2 SENSORS GOING BAD DON'T ALWAYS GIVE A CODE OR A DASH LIGHT BECAUSE OF THE BAD GAS MILAGE AND BLACK SMOKE WHEN IT IS WARM ITS PRETTY OBVIOUS WHAT IT IS OK GOOD LUCK POHLCAT