Spin cycle won't get up to speed!?

Drive Belt
Inspect the drive belt to determine if it is broken or if it is loose on the pulleys. If the drive belt is broken or loose, replace it.

Are you using the correct setting? Some settings only spin slowly (for delicates for example) and other settings spin at various speeds. When the load is off balance it doesn't get up to full speed either.
If it used to work at full speed, is your belt loose and slipping when spinning? Motor could be going at full speed but the drum is not. Is there an unusual or different sound? Possible smell of rubber as it slips?

Your low water sensor is probably bad that would keep it from going in to final extract.

In top load washers, if the machine goes through the cycles and then just stops at the spin cycle and leaves you with no noise and a tub full of water more than likely the lid switch is bad and not completing the circuit for cycle to continue. This is a safety precaution to prevent injury by reaching in the machine while at high speed spin. If the machine is getting to the spin cycle and still turning slowly but not draining the water, the pump is probably the culprit, either being locked up or in most cases something like a sock, etc. is stuck in it preventing it from turning. This is usually indicated by a humming sound during the spin/drain section with no water draining.In top load washers, if the machine goes through the cycles and then just stops at the spin cycle and leaves you with no noise and a tub full of water more than likely the lid switch is bad and not completing the circuit for cycle to continue. This is a safety precaution to prevent injury by reaching in the machine while at high speed spin. You can usually look and visually see the spot where the switch should be and if damaged. How to repair :
1) Unplug the machine. 2) At the head, or control panel, find the two screws that hold it to the case. Some are on the left and right front lower corners of the panel, and some are vertical facing s on the rear left and right side. Also on some models they are in the front but you have to pull the end caps off the sides of the control panel. 3) Remove the 2 screws and then pull the panel from the lower part of it towards you and roll it backwards. 4) Disconnect the lid switch connection in the the middle where the two grey wires and the green wire block connects to the body of the machine, usually near the middle under the panel. 5) with a flathead screwdriver pop out the two brass retainer clips on the right and left side. 6) Open the lid slightly where you can grab the case, not the tub, just the case, and pull forward and surprise!!! You just took the complete top, sides and front of the machine off. The lid switch will be attached to this portion so located it, remove the two screws that hold it in place, under the lid, and swap out with a new one. This is a cheap repair, just take your time and you'll be fine.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

In top load washers, if the machine goes through the cycles and then just stops at the spin cycle and leaves you with no noise and a tub full of water more than likely the lid switch is bad and not completing the circuit for cycle to continue. This is a safety precaution to prevent injury by reaching in the machine while at high speed spin. If the machine is getting to the spin cycle and still turning slowly but not draining the water, the pump is probably the culprit, either being locked up or in most cases something like a sock, etc. is stuck in it preventing it from turning. This is usually indicated by a humming sound during the spin/drain section with no water draining.In top load washers, if the machine goes through the cycles and then just stops at the spin cycle and leaves you with no noise and a tub full of water more than likely the lid switch is bad and not completing the circuit for cycle to continue. This is a safety precaution to prevent injury by reaching in the machine while at high speed spin. You can usually look and visually see the spot where the switch should be and if damaged. How to repair :
1) Unplug the machine. 2) At the head, or control panel, find the two screws that hold it to the case. Some are on the left and right front lower corners of the panel, and some are vertical facing s on the rear left and right side. Also on some models they are in the front but you have to pull the end caps off the sides of the control panel. 3) Remove the 2 screws and then pull the panel from the lower part of it towards you and roll it backwards. 4) Disconnect the lid switch connection in the the middle where the two grey wires and the green wire block connects to the body of the machine, usually near the middle under the panel. 5) with a flathead screwdriver pop out the two brass retainer clips on the right and left side. 6) Open the lid slightly where you can grab the case, not the tub, just the case, and pull forward and surprise!!! You just took the complete top, sides and front of the machine off. The lid switch will be attached to this portion so located it, remove the two screws that hold it in place, under the lid, and swap out with a new one. This is a cheap repair, just take your time and you'll be fine.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

In top load washers, if the machine goes through the cycles and then just stops at the spin cycle and leaves you with no noise and a tub full of water more than likely the lid switch is bad and not completing the circuit for cycle to continue. This is a safety precaution to prevent injury by reaching in the machine while at high speed spin. If the machine is getting to the spin cycle and still turning slowly but not draining the water, the pump is probably the culprit, either being locked up or in most cases something like a sock, etc. is stuck in it preventing it from turning. This is usually indicated by a humming sound during the spin/drain section with no water draining.In top load washers, if the machine goes through the cycles and then just stops at the spin cycle and leaves you with no noise and a tub full of water more than likely the lid switch is bad and not completing the circuit for cycle to continue. This is a safety precaution to prevent injury by reaching in the machine while at high speed spin. You can usually look and visually see the spot where the switch should be and if damaged. How to repair :
1) Unplug the machine. 2) At the head, or control panel, find the two screws that hold it to the case. Some are on the left and right front lower corners of the panel, and some are vertical facing s on the rear left and right side. Also on some models they are in the front but you have to pull the end caps off the sides of the control panel. 3) Remove the 2 screws and then pull the panel from the lower part of it towards you and roll it backwards. 4) Disconnect the lid switch connection in the the middle where the two grey wires and the green wire block connects to the body of the machine, usually near the middle under the panel. 5) with a flathead screwdriver pop out the two brass retainer clips on the right and left side. 6) Open the lid slightly where you can grab the case, not the tub, just the case, and pull forward and surprise!!! You just took the complete top, sides and front of the machine off. The lid switch will be attached to this portion so located it, remove the two screws that hold it in place, under the lid, and swap out with a new one. This is a cheap repair, just take your time and you'll be fine.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

Make sure door mechanism is working at fine. So next is to check whether the motor tumbles both directions.
The spin bearing might be a problem, but normally you'd hear a problem here first. Have you heard any freight trains passing through the house in the spin cycle?
One thing to check for this problem is the spin speed switch. If the spin speed switch is bad then the control won't know how fast to spin, and so it will just not spin at all.
The drain pump must be draining all the water out. If the water doesn't drain out then the pressure switch won't read empty and that might prevent a spin cycle.
I hope this helps.
Please reply with additional details for further assistance.
Shane

Sounds like a failed transmission

if you can open the front of the machine
inspect the motor and clutch area
clutch is under motor

This is not a Malber machine but the following fix has worked for the Malber washer. Try unplugging the machine for at least 2 minutes. Do not just turn it off as there is still current going to the machine .This should clear the computer. If this does not work, the imbalance may have overloaded the circuit board requiring replacement.