20 Most Recent
Malber WD1000 Front Load Washer/Dryer Questions & Answers
Detergent doesn't drain
The rod which controls the flow of water to the various compartments needs to be adjusted. It is not a difficult fix. You can contact Malber usa (
[email protected]) and they can "walk" you through it. In the alternative, you can put the detergent in the pre-wash tray without concern.
Need service for Malber 1000 heating element..
Hi. Mike here. I repair Malbers in the Washington D.C. area. The most likely problem is not the heating element, but the hi-temp (or "brown") thermostat. They cost about $25 and are very simple to install. A "Torx 1.5" screwdriver (asterisk tip) removes two screws, in back, holding top on. Lift off top, and (from the front) see silver-foil-wrapped heating assy. At lower right will be a small philips screw holding a thin wire "hasp" which holds the thermostat in place. Remove screw and hasp (without dropping in machine!), unplug two "quiik-connect" lugs (orange & red wires) and pull out thermostat to the right. New one slips right back in. Replace wires, hasp, phillips screw and top -and you're done! This is 90% sure to fix. The heating element is only about 5% likely.
One last thing ... when re-inserting new thermostat, you'll have to "wrestle" with it a bit, as the tip needs to slip into a tiny (hard to "find") hole. Keep trying, and eventually it'll fit ALL the way in, so the hasp can hold it. To purchase part, call Joel (at Malber): 800-600-8913
Oh yeah, one MORE last thing... That red wire may be burnt a little, or completely burnt in two. Radio Shack and Home Depot sell "crimp-on" lugs (1/4") like these (female). Trim back the wire, crimp a new lug on the end, and push it back onto lower terminal on thermostat. If wire is too short, of course, add a few inches of 16 guage "stranded" (lamp cord). The same stores also sell tubular "crimp-on" wire-connectors (little blue tubes) to join the old and new wires. May God bless.
Spin cycle won't get up to speed!?
Might be a control board problem. Contact Malber USA at 1-800-600-8913. They will have replacement part and, if the machine is still under warranty, the part is free.
We broke the door handle on our Malber 1000 Can we
Mike, in Washington D.C., again. Of course you can do it yourself.
First call Joel (Malber in NY) at 800-600-8913 or 516-294-6660 . Tell
him which model machine you need a door latch for (if you aren't sure,
check label in rear).
Once you've received your new latch assy (about $20):
Open door, and notice white plastic "ring" around glass is actually 2
pieces (front and rear) snapped together - with a seam around periphery.
Unsnap (separate) them by either getting your fingernails into the seam
and pulling them apart - or prying them open with a spackle knife or
thin screwdriver blade. Once it starts coming apart, just work the
opening all the way around.
Remove front "ring" and set aside.
Using a 1.5mm Torx screwdriver, remove 2 small screws holding broken
latch assy. Note the way the ends of the spring go under the 2 screws.
That's the way it has to go back.
Slip new latch assy into place, pressing vertical "hinge pin" and ends
of spring into slots (near screw holes).
Replace 2 screws. Test latch with door open - is it working? Try
closing door. All good?
Replace front "ring": Open door and, while pulling out on latch handle,
slip the ring over the latch handle and get it into approximate
position. Let go of latch (it snaps into "closed" position) and adjust
ring so it doesn't bind the latch handle (meaning it's free to move).
Now, beginning anywhere on outside edge, begin snapping rings together -
and continue all the way around.
Test that door latch still operates smoothly and that door latches shut
properly.
FYI: There is no adjustment for this latch assy - it just fits precisely
where it's supposed to.
Good luck and God Bless ...
Malber WD1000 wont condense the water that is fed through during the drying cycle
Since it drains properly during the wash cycle, we know the drain pump and its impeller (propeller) work, and the coin trap (you called it a filter) and hoses are not clogged. By the way, turning the rightmost knob to "4" will start the pump-out cycle, so you don't have to open that trap-door at the bottom. To condense, the machine needs COLD water (spritzing on an internal screen) during drying. Make sure your cold water hose is connected to the outside (outboard) connection on the back of the machine. As a long shot: If the gray drain hose is pushed too far down into your home's drain pipe (more than 8") there could be a "back-siphon" where dirty water siphons back into the washer. It's a long shot, but it does happen.
Lastly, the controller board (mounted at top of right side) could be bad, and not sending on-off commands to the pump during drying. During drying, the drain pump should cycle on and off constantly, every few minutes. Do you hear it running? If you remove back (about 12 Torx screws), at your lower left you will see the pump. There are only 2 wires (120 VAC) and they can be connected either way. Stick a meter on the terminals and see if power is cycling on and off. If not, the controller board is bad.
You can order one from Malber (in NYC) by calling Nancy at 516-323-5299. Tell her Mike, in Wash. D.C., says hi.
No longer heats during dry
HELLO THERE:
if you have cleaned all of the lint from the filter and still no luck you are goiong to be looking at replacing the heating element.
contact your local appliance repair for this part and a price ok?
best regards mike
How do I dry only
When using the WD-1000 as a Dryer only, are you turning the rightmost knob Clockwise to the correct starting point?
Looking at the periphery of the knob, at the bottom, see the elongated "sausage" shape, outlined in blue? Turn the knob so it passes "Stop", and points there.
At the end of a completed Wash Cycle, that is where the pointer will be pointing. Once there, the machine switches automatically to Dryer Mode.
As long as the middle dial is set to a timer length greater than zero, the drying begins. I recommend turning the middle dial to somewhere around 2:00 o'clock, which corresponds to about 90 minutes if I remember correctly.
(You'll notice that is in the "Orange" area, meaning Full Heat - which is always fine because it never gets too hot anyway)
So, turn right dial to point to the "white sausage" at the bottom of the dial; Turn middle dial to 90 mins, or so; (Left dial only controls "Spin" speed - just set to max); and close the door. (It should begin drying)
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