How do I get the white heat stain off of my tempered glass, air tight gas furnace?

Hi,If you want to cut glass left over form old project or somebody gave it to you for what ever reason the first thing you need to do is make sure that the glass is plate glass becouse if you try cutting tempered glass its going to blow in your face.
Usually tempered glass has a stamp somewhere in the corner which proves that is tempered and the company that tempered it. After you know for sure that your glass is plate glass you need:

1.Safety glasses
2.Glass gloves
3.Glass cutter
4.Straight edge
5.Cutting table or flat surface covered with felt or short hair carpet
6.Measuring tape
7.Clamps (to hold your straight edge while you score the surface)

The thing is you dont cut glass,you score it with the cutter and then brake it.Please let me know what kind of glass are you going to cut so I can be more specific.

Debruce polish works perfectly on these types of "stains". Also use on all glass surfaces: fire place glass, oven windows etc... you will be amazed. Yet not available at the retail level you will find this wonderful "green product" at debrucepolish.com

Yes, you can put a piece of tempered glass from a glass dealer in place of the original piece. The advantage is that you can use a heavier piece, if it'll fit. It might cost more to go that route, because it's a custom piece- they have to cut the glass before tempering it. Just call a couple of glass people and a couple of appliance people and go whichever route you find you prefer.

lp

Dear Sir,
That glass inspection cap is not made anymore, and it is very dangerous to operate with out one in place. Many people are in the same spot as you are.
I have had success working with glass companies, they can make a glass piece out of glass that can withstand high heat, it is time consuming and expensive, so you will have to shop around, but it can be done, but not for cheap.
Those old floor furnaces can heat so nice, Just for the information these floor furnaces are still being made, though they heat a bit differently as they don't get as hot, just a new code put into place, to keep children from burning thier little feet.
"Cozy" is one of the new manufactures.
I hope I have answered your questions.
Sincerely,
Paul Gibson

That means that the furnace is throwing a code to trouble shoot whats wrong. Most of the time, furnaces will have a code list on the inside of the door cover to explain what each code means, some of them don't. Its hard to say what it could be without knowing where to start. However, answering a few questions with someone knowledgeable over the phone if possible could help speed things up, but it would involve you being at the furnace and seeing what happens before it throws the code. If you do have a code list, this would help tremendously.

An explanation....

When in the heating mode, all heat pumps are dependent upon the outdoor conditions to remove heat energy from the environment and turn it into useful heat for your dwelling.

Heat pumps operate more effectively in temperate climates (as in southern states) and if it's as cold as you say, then the furnace is coming on to add auxiliary heat to the space to make up for the lack of heat being supplied by the heat pump. This is normal.

Some heat pump systems are or can be equipped with a control known as a "low ambient cut out" and/or "motor master" that prevents the heat pump compressor from operating and slows or stops the condensing unit fan when it's too cold and risking potential compressor damage. When it's in the single digits outside, a heat pump is only marginally effective. and usually requires auxiliary heat (your furnace).

If the furnace keeps operating when it's in the 30s or 40s, you may want to have the system examined by a competent service technician. As always, the outdoor condensing unit should be kept clean and the furnace filter should be changed no less than monthly, unless you have an electronic air filter.

For heat pumps........


R = Red wire (hot24v)
G = Green wire (blower motor)
Y = Yellow wire (AC condensor)
C = blue wire (common)
O = Orange wire (reversing valve)
W1 or W2 = White wire (emergency heat)


For gas furnace


W1 = white (gas furnace)
R = red
G = green
Y = yellow
C = blue

try using a ceramic hob cleaner to get it off

Norwex Descaler is the absolute best thing I've found for hard water build up on any surface, including glass shower doors and shower/sink fixtures. When I moved into my current house last year, the bathtub and shower head were disgusting! They were white with years of built-up hard water residue. Repeated application of CLR and a ton of elbow grease just couldn't get it off. When I tried Norwex DeScaler for the first time, it removed ALL of the soap scum and lime in the FIRST application.

This stuff is enzyme based - free of hazardous chemicals and enviro friendly. The enzymes in the DeScaler actually eat the soap scum! I just spray it on, wait 5 -10 minutes, and wipe off with my wet microfiber cloth (also from Norwex). It's incredible. It works better and faster than CLR, or any other chemical alternative I've tried. It's fume-free and can be used by people with chemical and environmental allergies.

You can buy it from a Norwex Rep, or order it online - a good site is www.Norwex-Healthy-Cleaning.com. Hope this helps.

try bars keeper