Hi This means a
loose/broken wire on the oven temp sensor or the oven temp. sensor itself is
bad and should be replaced. To solve this issue test the oven temp. sensor, it
should read between 1080-1120 ohms, if the rating is more then that and the
door appears to be closing fine then it is the control board that is bad and
should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.
Daniel
If the control board(clock assembly) is fine and the door is also closing properly then it is nothing else apart from the oven temp sensor that is bad and should be replaced.
Yes and yes, how old is it?
I believe the sensor is bad and the control board is fine
Either the temp sensor is bad or the control board(clock assembly), clock assembly is working fine so I believe it is the temp sensor even if it is reading 1082 ohms I still believe it is bad. If you want to confirm you can take it apart to check the clock assembly.
Hi, just wondering if this solved the problem?
I have an old BFEF374CS3 that had the elements stop working immediately after performing a self-clean. Thermal fuse?
Anyone know where the thermal fuse may be? As was stated by the original question, the fuses aren't that easy to locate....
×
There could
be 2 reasons.
1. The
heating elements are gone. Please dismantle one element at a time. and check
the resistance of each one by a multi-meter. The meter should read few ohms
(
2. The
relays are gone. Then you have to replace them.
If you are referring to the bake element, but the broil element works then you would need to just replace the bake element. If both your bake and broil element does not work, then there might be a problem with the wiring communication. However, if the oven does not bake and/or broil but the cook top works, contact a professional to have the EOC (electronic oven control) diagnosed.
oven is not heating then you probably have a bad heating element in your oven. This is not that hard to fix yourself... Oven is Heating Slowly or Poorly788 views
Usually answered in minutes!
The thermostat reads at 1082 ohms which is within your described parameters.
Both elements have continuity.
The wire from the element to the connection at the back of the stove shows some heat marks and is covered by a brown sticky substance which is also on the insulation which surrounds the port that the thermostat goes through I attributed it to heat and product leakage during use.
Without taking the entire back off I still cannot locate any visible fuses for the elements. Any Ideas would be helpful. The wiring, including that from the thermostat is bundled and goes through a port at the back of the upper panel, there are no line fuses that I can identify.
further to what I stated, the oven was working properly, and heated our Onion soup, the oven failed when we switched from bake to broil to brown the cheeze and now neither element will work.
The sensor tests out at 1082 ohms, do you think it still may be the problem? I thought the Broil setting didn't link to the sensor as there are only two settings that the panel allows when you push the button the screen allows you to select Hi or Lo. It's when we switched from bake to Broil that it quit working, can the thermostat sensor fail that quickly?
6 years
Can you explain why the ohm meter gives me a reading that is within your paramaters? And then still does not work?
I will find out by replacing the sensor, my only problem is I cannot find a match for my model #, so I don't know which sensor to order. If you have any suggestions please let me know.
Denis
×