I have two switches installed so i could turn light and fan on separately, of course you know the fan only needs one hot wire to go through the reciever for both to operate the remote. it says to cap off my extra red or use it for a dimmer for the light , is their any way to make use of my extra switch to be able to use them independantly to iether turn on light or fan and stilluse remote as well . reciever at fan has white/black goingin and whte/blk/blue/ going to fan motor and light ,i have my 14/3 wire with wht/blk/red/ can i hook the extra hot directly to the blue onthe fan bypassing the reciever so i can uttilize my second switch . Thanks Al

You simply use the ceiling fan switch to power the fan. U can hook it up in parallel to the other light fixture. The wall switch can power both units but you can always shut off the fan. To run the fan and kill the light you would need a separate circuit for the light with its own switch. Or hot wire the fan as you indicated.

Red supposed to be the line (hot Wire) if you have a voltmeter try to verify this if not the other color has to be White that's the neutral and the green is the ground, now, on your fan you have the Light-wire, the Fan-wire usually they are black and red the neutral is white and the ground is no color (cooper), if you want to turn on the light and the fan separately you need to run another hot-wire and another switch if not

Red wire from the house to Light and Fan Wires

White wire from the house to white wire from the fan

And ground to ground

The only thing is that when you turn the wall switch on you have the light and the fan on you will have to turn either one off manually

by looking at the sw. it looks like u can only put it to a low dim and not off and the button at the bottom is all off including the fan if this is correct u should be able to change to a different kind of fan sw. combo or even a remote style that comes with a receiver ,also your fan should have three wires at the box a light wire "blue" a fan wire "black" and a neutral "white" oh and a ground "green" in order to switch these separate u need those 3 wires at the sw. also . but with a remote u only need the hot and neutral it hooks up in the box or canopy of the fan to the receiver all wires are marked for easy installation turn power off to be safe u can install a regular sw. to over ride the remote and turn power off at the fan .......its alot i know but hit me up if u need more help.






Mercedes Parts

The black is the hot line, white is neutral, and blue is for the light. If the fan and the light are on separate switches at the wall, the black goes to the hot lead from the on/off switch and the blue goes to the hot lead from the light switch. If you are using the pull chains to operate the fan and the light once the wall switch is "ON", then the black (fan) and the blue (light kit) wires are connected together and tied to the hot from the wall switch.
Hope that this helps you.

Best regards, --W/D--

It takes 2 testers.
regular tester


Continuity tester has battery and light bulb.

Use regular tester to find Hot wire that feeds old-switch.
Remove old-switch from fan
Strip back wires
Separate wires so they can be tested.
Turn on power.
Test each wire to bare copper wire -or- to green wire -or- to metal part of fan
One of the fan wires will light up tester.
This is the Hot wire.
Mark Hot wire.
Mark which color wire on old-switch went to the hot wire.

Use continuity tester on old-switch.
You know which wire is hot-on-old-switch
Pull chain and test hot-on-old-switch to both of the other wires.
When tester lights up, mark this wire.
Pull chain again and test hot-on-old-switch to both of the other wires.
When tester lights up, mark this wire.
At some point when you pull the chain, the tester will light up both the other wires.
This is the high speed.

Use continuity tester on new-switch.
Repeat the test for old-switch.
Identify which wire will be the Hot wire by process of elimination.
Mark this wire.
Identify high-speed wire.
Pull chain again, and tester lights up on medium speed.
Pull chain again, and tester lights up on low speed
Identify these wires and match pattern to the old-switch

If you need more help, add a comment, and I will answer

Found a .pdf file that shows LSDC163pwv ... it does not show wiring for LSDC. It shows wiring for other 3-way dimmers & separate wiring for 3-way fan control. This is a clue.

The Pass and Seymour download page does not load, so I can't see specific manual.

Let me provide what I know:
-Instructions might be confusing because LSDC works for both single-pole and 3-way circuits ... which probably adds a lot of extra wording in manual
-LSDC Device has single-pole/3-way dimmer (this requires 3 wires)
-Device has single-pole/3-way fan control with 3 speeds (which requires 3 wires)
-That's 6 total wires
-If I understand correctly, you just want to control a ceiling light? -And you do not have a fan? And your ceiling light is set up with 3-way switches.
-IF you are also wanting to control a fan in addition to the light, the box will need separate wires that go specifically to the fan >> your description shows that you do not have separate wires for the fan. Is this correct?
-Without separate wires to the fan, you can still control the light ... but if wires to light also turn the fan on-and-off, then the LSDC is not the right control since a dimmer for lights will not work on both fan and light.
To wire the light:
-You have identified black common wire for light (it is connected to dark-colored screw on 3-way switch)
-You have identified travelers that connect the 3-way switches
-The neutral wires seem to be twisted together at back of box.
-I think the dimmer is located on the top, and fan control is bottom?? Not 100% sure >>>
-Question: are there 3 wires that are associated with dimmer?
-If you can see 3 wires for dimmer, one of those wires should be black ... just hook that to common, and hook other 2 wires to travelers ... and see if it works. If not, keep connecting them until correct combination is found.

Tip- I read a lot of electrical part manuals, and when confused, I write out the instructions so it breaks down the information.

Lutron S2-LFSQ is made to control one ceiling paddle fan & 1 light. Switch will not work on florescent lights.
See manual

To use this product, your fan and light must already be controlled by 2 separate switches.

If you have just one switch that turns on the light & fan together, the S2-LFSQ will not work (without additional wiring).

Okay, you have two switches. One switch turns fan on-and-off. The other switch turns light on-and-off.

Here is wiring diagram from manual: See diagram larger



Here's how to wire:
-Before disconnecting wires from existing switches, mark each wire with tape and pen.
-There is one wire that feeds power to both switches > mark this the 'Hot wire' and it connects to Lutron black wire (if you are unsure about this wire, remove switches, separate wires, turn on power and test each wire to bare ground, tape tester leads to wood sticks so hands are away from power, Tester lights up on Hot wire)
-The switch that controls fan > mark this the 'Fan wire' and it will connect to Lutron Yellow wire
-the switch that controls light > mark this the 'light wire' and it will connect to Lutron Red wire
-Lutron Green wire or bare wire connects to bare ground wire.

Assuming you are talking about the hookup wires coming from the fan... There should be too hot wires, one black and one blue (then you should also have a white neutral, and a green ground). One should be for the fan, and the other for the light, but they should be labeled. The purpose for the separate wires is so you can install with separate switches. If you are not using separate switches to control the fan and light separately then the blue and black wire should be connected together.

I suggest you cut 3 pigtails out of your black wire (about 5-6" each and strip them so you can put a nut to tie them all together on the main wire, then do the same for your grounds using green 5-6" strips of wire and then connect all 3 switches with the pigtails to their proper locations. This WILL fix your problem.

The white wire in your ceiling box is USUALLY the neutral wire. Green or bare wires are ground wires. Any other colored wires are generally hot, switched or unswitched. If changing the position of a wall switch makes a white wire hot, it is NOT a neutral wire. You need a test light, generally an inexpensive neon test light available at any hardware store, and a book on basic wiring would help. To control the fan and light separately, assuming you have not installed a wireless control, you need two switches, one for the fan and one for the light. If you do not have these, you need a wireless control unless you have a spare wire in the wall switch box or you need to be satisfied with controlling the separate functions with the pull chains. Check the ceiling box wires. Put one lead on the ground wire or, if you have steel boxes, on the box. Remove the wire nuts on the other wires, being careful not to touch any wires or touch any of the wires to each other or the side of a metal box. Touch the other lead to the other wires, one by one. If the light comes on, the wire is hot. Try the wall switch(es) on and off and see what changes. To make the fan or light work it has to be hooked up to a neutral wire (white, never hot regardless of any switch positions) and a hot wire. The same is true for the light kit. If you do not have or want two wall switches, one for the light and one for the fan, you need to identify the wire that is hot when you turn on the wall switch and hook it up to the black (fan) wire AND the blue (light)wire. You then control both with the single wall switch in conjunction with the pull chains. If you have two switches in the same wall box, and they make two different wires hot in the ceiling box, hook one to the black fan wire and one to the blue light wire. If you're set up with only one switch, and you're lucky, you may have an extra wire in the same cable from the ceiling box to the wall box, with a wire nut on each end. In that case, install a second switch for the light (or a combination switch designed to control both a fan and light). Hook the hot wire from the wall box to both switches (or the hot terminal on the combination switch) and the other two wires to the other two terminals that go to the ceiling box to feed the light and fan. Never use a light dimmer switch to control a fan or a fan speed switch to control a light. If two or more switches in different areas controlled the original fixture in the ceiling box, things can be complicated. If the same wall switch makes two different wires hot depending on it's position, for example, it's a three or four way switch. The above description also assumes the wall box is fed from the ceiling box, but the opposite may be true. There may also be wires in either box that are feeding other circuits in the house. Electricity can kill or burn down your house. If unsure of what you are doing, hire a licensed electrician. Also be aware that if you touch the leads of the test light to two wires that are both hot, the light may not come on. Always test with one lead on a ground or a wire that you are sure is a neutral wire. I recommend tuning off the power to all the circuits in the boxes that you are working on, after you have determined what the wires are, by shutting off the circuit breaker(s) or removing the fuse(s). There may be more than one circuit in a box.