Dewalt DW618 Router - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

take out 4 screws on top of router. i used a large flat head but they are not flat head (some kind of combo with star type center). remove top could be a little stuck. you will see bearing in center. the magnetic ring sits underneath the bearing. you need a small bearing/gear puller to get bearing out. once out the magnetic ring goes flat side down over center shaft and then the bearing gets replaced over it. i just tapped the bearing down softly with a small hammer being careful not to break new magnetic ring.

you have to take four screws out from top of router. i used a large flat head screwdriver but actually the screw has a weird head like a cross between flat head and star. anyway once you remove cover you should see the bearing in the center. you need to use a bearing/gear puller to remove it. the magnetic ring lays just beneath the bearing. if its still there. mine was in pieces. clean out the mess and then the magnetic ring slides on flat side down. then LIGHTLY tap the bearing back into place. i used a small hammer. there didn't seem to be any lubrication in there so i didn't add any.

Bearings are lifetime lubed. Just check brush length and blow dust out of it.

I would get a needle file, pair of magnifying glasses, recut those threads as best I can, buy a new collet, and get her going. Or, buy the die for the threads, should be about 1/2 28? I know it is a fine thread, the die will be expensive, or take it to a machine shop and ask them to do it. But get the collet first so they can try it. The new armature is expensive, I replaced one once. I bent the armature.

could be brushes stuck, the tubes might have been smashed a little not allowing them to contact the armature or other major electrical problems, Check for continuity thru the brush tubes and see what you get.

This is a serious disassembly and re-assembly.

Not only do you need to remove the yellow plastic cover end, but also disassemble the collet end. Depending on which version 618 you have it may have screws on the collet end or just a large nut. Sometimes you can't see the screws because they are plugged or covered with wood dust. The bearing is press-fit on the shaft on at least one end and requires an arbor press and special pressing sleeve. So you can only get so far on one of the 618 models then you have to use the arbor press to finish disassembly. The outside of the bearing sits in a very very close fit bore in the aluminum housing, which often becomes very difficult to disassemble without heating the aluminum housing. One bearing (top) must be pressed off the shaft and the replacement bearing precisely positioned where the old one was, so you need to measure with an inside snap gage, a dial caliper tail or depth micrometer to assure proper re-positioning. If you don't get it right then the motor shroud will rub the housing and the shaft won't sit right in the lower bearing.

You also need to replace the brushes while you have it apart. Between the labor, brushes and bearings cost you are better off taking it to a DeWalt service center - but even so, the cost to replace the router would usually be less than the service cost if it is out of warranty! Be very careful to make sure if you or anyone does do this job that the replacement bearings are properly rated for high speed - otherwise you'll be doing the job again in a few months of use.

here is a link copy and paste https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?111567-DeWalt-733-Rollers-stopped-moving ..

It needs new blades - likely has a chip in one. See link for replacement tutorial

Red is pos and black is neg.

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I’m not trying to be a wise guy but the regulator has an adjustment on the bottom

The nailer must be firmly pressed against the surface you are planning to nail. This will arm the nailer in preparation for firing the nail.

Try this link: https://www.ereplacementparts.com/dewalt-dw423-type-inch-evs-random-orbit-sander-parts-c-1009_2742_2758.html

https://www.2helpu.com/PDMSDocuments/EU/Docs/Service%20Dossier/DW733-D.PDF

O rings

Either the blades are incorrectly installed causing the head to jam or the safety cover is not installed properly - there is a safety mechanism that locks the cutter head when the cover is removed.

Typical cause is low voltage - but can also be a bent driver or something jammed in the nail track. Is this a finish nailer or framing nailer?

That symptom usually indicates a low voltage issue - not sure how the adapter may affect this, I've never run them with a 20v battery. Try it with a standard 18v and see if you have the same issue - please comment back with the results, I'm curious.