20 Most Recent Mitsubishi WD-65833 65" HDTV - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Yes the Lamp can fail within that time frame. Much of it depends on how many hours the set is running. Most Lamps have a 3000 to 5000 hrs of life. But with any Halogen style Lamp, this is not written in stone.
Hope this helps,
Skyassoc

Thats a very coomon problem which is caused by a failed DLP chip. The mirrors get stuck and thats what causes the white spots they will keep multiplying untill the entire screen is filled. You will need to replace the DLP chip. You can get the replacement DLP chip and illustrated instructions on how to do the repair from www.tvrepairworld.com

Try blowing out the set and especially the three fans and the area around them---seen a number of these where a dirty fan will slow down just a little and even stop set from coming on at al l or shutting down sometimes.We usually roll them outside and with an air compressor clean the set out, it usually looks like a dust storm.I have had more than a few brought in that would not power up and as soon as cleaned outside came up and worked.The actual air intakes are on the front of the set and dust gets sucked into the unit.SD TECHSee link below: http://www.fixya.com/support/t12296849-turns_off_shortly_after_turn?mt_f=viewFull162

You are not the first person I have seen who replaced the display chip and had fubar after--1,2 is no error found.You might want to do a little more research: Mitsubishi when changing the optical engine has a procedure so the engine can communicate with the digital circuit in the set--opps!By the way the reset on the front is only a boot up for the set--set also has a hidden option menu for a hard reset of the entire set to factory defaults.tried that one?

It's either mirror hinge fatigue or dust on the inside.
Mirror hinge fatigue can be fixed by putting a solid color picture (white or gray works best from what I understand) on the display and letting it sit for 20 minutes.
If it's dust, someone is going to have to go in there and clean it out.
Also could be a defective micromirror device.
Try the first suggestion and if it doesn't work, you're going to need a technician to take a look at it.

This is a fault solution which can be checked and corrected by you assuming that there is no component failure. There is a high possibility that the components over a period of heating and cooling, tend to bring on a problem of dry soldering. So my advice is to check the set for some loose joints that have played on to give you these erratic shut downs or poor performance.

The fault seems relevant as it comes on when some components are warm which is making the circuit function to a better level. The best way to check for loose connections is to tap lightly when the set is powered on , If there is change while tapping then it seems that there are DRY solder joints. Remove main plug, the covers - with caution of high voltage, check for dry joints, use a good soldering iron to solder all suspected points.

Since the fault clears when the set warms up, if so you can simulate the heat using a hair dryer on the suspected areas, try with the power supply, distribution, Processor controller, driver controllers on the A/V related sections. Also the use a FREEZE-IT spray can simulate the components to cool and show up the fault.

Based on the above method you must be able to locate the area of fault and solder the sections. Sometimes large IC's- ones with more pins- tend to have drying in some pins and so cause faults related to the IC's protocol. Have a rough idea of looking into the areas to reduce the time of probing.

Check for tips to look into the SMPS unit with some of my tips:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5826301-working_switch_mode_power_supplies

Thank you for using Fixya.

That is a replacement part that you should contact the manufacturer for.

Obtain a copy of the service manual and in it you will find the replacement part number of the DMD and how to purchase one. It is a very, application-specific component that you are likely to never find in any private seller listings.
A lot of DMD and optics engines were made and patented by Texas Instruments for many TV's.

Here is a link to get you started. http://www.dlp.com/hdtv/dlp-mitsubishi-hdtv/default.aspx

The Main Board contains the DM circuitry. And you are right, this board does not fail in the way of its predecessors. What is the unit doing?

Between 100-500 check ebay

915P061010 part number for lamp, remove Philips head screw from lamp door in rear of set. YOU will find the lamp under door. Pull out, install new lamp, reinstall Phillips screw. Plug TV back in.
should do trick
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This problem sounds like it could be an intermittent ly malfunctioning component in the power supply section of your TV. I suspect it could be a capacitor that is failing. This is quite common in televisions today. If you want to at least take a look at what could be wrong, unplug the TV take the back off and look at the power supply board for vented or bloated capacitors. Capacitors are can-like components the have tops that look they are made to open. If the top looks curved in any way that capacitor has to be changed. I suggest that for the repair of this TV you seek the help of a TV technician, due to the fact that the technician would have all of the tools need to properly preform the needed repair.

most likely a problem with the optical engine. that tv is a DLP and it uses a DMD device that is made by texas instruments that has millions of tiny mirrors on the face that move independantly and the white spots are going to be stuck mirrors that are not moving. suggest calling mitsubishi customer support for possible repair accomodation. that repair depending on the labor would be around $1500.00 total parts cost is around $1100.00. mitsubishi customer support 1-800-332-2119

First thing to consider is a faulty lamp...

Hello,

if your remote control is completely dead, first, you need to check the batteries and test the remote with another TV, likewise test your TV with another remote control.

Some times, the fault might not be from the remote control, the fault might be from the TV remote sensor. This happens a lot of time where remote looks dead, but the TV sensor might be the one that is dead.

So confirm if the remote is actually dead before you thing of getting another one. But if it happens that the remote is truly dead, then you need to get another remote control because, remote are hardly repaired.

You can open the remote battery area, check if the metal there is not rust, it its rust, then maybe the batteries are not contacting as a result of the rust. Get a flat screw driver and use it to scratch the rust off. Again, open the remote control and make sure the battery terminals are well fitted on the remote board.

If the remote connections seems right, then you have to get another remote control.

Good luck.

Your ballast might not be able to light up your lamp. Do you hear a clicking, buzzing? this can be an indicator that your ballast is too weak to light up the lamp. this board will need to be replaced at some point of your tv's life.

The Main Board contains the DM circuitry and does not fail in the same way as it's predecessors. What is the unit doig?