I believe you have a problem with either your thermostat or gas valve. Have a qualified tech who is experienced in handling gas to look at it. I don't think it is a threatening matter but could develop into more serious and even more costly repairs. I am leaning however towards the t'stat without looking at it.
Easy fix. Get some windex or 409 cleaner and find the 2 metal stripe inside and wash hell out of em. They get a buildup on then that forms a moister barrier. The crappytronics cannot sense dampness and think the dang clothes is clean. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
If you are having problems with your
gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor
goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working
properly.
if
you dryer is gas check out this gas
no heat
tip....
If you have an electric dryer, you can
have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to
heat.
If your dryer is not heating, then check if the power cord is plugged into the wall. It may be loose or disconnected. Inspect the fuses and circuit breakers they may have burned out or tripped. Usually, dryer will still tumble but not create heat if a fuse or a circuit breaker is not working. Now, check whether the heating element in your gas dryer is burned out by using an ohm meter to check for continuity. If the continuity is not there then you would need to replace the element. After checking the element, check out the thermal fuse to see if it's burned out. The thermal fuse is attached to the exhaust duct on the back panel of the gas dryer. It's usually surrounded by a black resin material situated in a housing made of white plastic. If the fuse looks like it's blown, then it needs to be replaced.
Now, check the igniter, there is a plastic connector attaching the igniter to the burner. Disconnect this and place the probes onto the two contacts of the igniter. The meter should read under 100 Ohms of resistance. If the reading is above 100 ohms then igniter is bad. If the igniter passes the test then you need to test continuity on the flame sensor. You should have continuity between the two contacts. If not, then you need to replace the flame sensor. The sensors are usually located close by the igniter so are easily visible. Hope this helps...
Daniel
most likely you have bad gas coils.when the coils are on there way out they work fine until they heat up then they fail.the coils are what opens the gas valve,they are located on top of the gas valve,remove the 2 phillips screws,remove the cover and change out the coils.simple job
THE ONLY ITEM ON A DRYER THAT WILL SHUT OFF A DRYER AND TURN IT BACK ON AGAIN IS THE THERMAL OVERLOAD OF THE MOTOR. IF YOU CAN GET TO THE MOTOR, MAKE SURE IT IS NOT PLUGGED WITH LINT.
IF IT IS NOT, YOU HAVE A DEFECTIVE MOTOR AND WILL NEED IT REPLACED. THE OVERLOAD COMES WITH THE NEW MOTOR.
To do that today, you would need to do the following for older dryers. Turn off the power by pulling the plug From the back remove the console. Remove the top Undo the two screws at the kick strip Carefully remove the front remembering there are wires. Short the wires together and tape them up. Put it all back together. For modern dryers. Some are surface mount and just pull out. Order the part, DON'T leave it like that! ..
The reason for this will be that you have mis-routed the belt or that the spring on the idler arm is weak or has broken / dropped off. The idler pulley puts tension on the back edge of the belt. What made the loud noise will be the key to this. My bet is that you lost the spring or an idler arm mounting bolt.
When it hit the floor you have probably knocked something loose inside the motor itself. You will need to check it spins freely by hand and check the carbon brushes for the armature. You may also need to strip the motor down to check all the wiring connections inside the motor.
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