20 Most Recent Whirlpool 19.6 cu. ft. Upright Freezer EV200FXM - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Not a 5 min. explanation, but in short, if the compressor and fan are both running, question is, Is the freezer cold but not the fridge? If so, defrost properly for approx. 12 hours to remove all ice then restart. If not, one of 2 options remain, there is either a Blockage in the system, or there is a leak in the system. Either way, you need to call a service technician. Truthfully, if diagnosed with a leak, i suggest you replace the fridge as these leaks do not get repaired properly especially if it is internal and good money will get wasted. Hope i helped.

Normally when there is insufficient air flow in the room the freezer door will condensate and show wet spots.Have that often when testing a fridge in the workshop. Once the door is wide open, the wetness on the door goes away.

Yes, only part that gets could is in the Freezer. If block by ice (usually) this will not allow the cold air to go into the ref., if so, defrost problem. Check amount of ice on coils in back of Freezer. Should only be a thin frosting.

Is your circulating fan working?
Sometimes they stick and need a shot of WD 40 and then work
it back and forth a little until it wants to take off again. Keep me informed
and PLEASE give a Thumbs Up for the effort. The Raz Shack

That material is put there underneath the defrost heater on the floor area of the freezer to prevent the heat from possibly melting the plastic below. Its just aluminum tape that you can buy at home depot or lowes. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

Depends how long it was off for but it usually means high temperature.

Hi,
Please check : - Your door for small leak ( gasket / seals) - Temperature sensor for malfunction. A failed sensor will show wrong data.
Regards,

-18 to -19 deg

usually when you have that sign it means you are to change the thermostat

Since you say the compressor is running, you should check the evaporator coil inside the cabinet. Remove the back wall screws, and the back wall, to expose the evaporator. If its fully encased in frost, like a square block of snow, you have a defrost problem, heater, t- stat or defrost control. If frost only at the top, your fan is not running. If its bare of frost, all you see is the aluminum coil, you have a sealed system leak of refrigeratnt

should be located on sticker inside of the freezer.

If by coverings you mean the side of the cabinet, that is usually an indication that the compressor is running hotter than normal, could be a bad compressor, compressor fan, a leak of refrigerant, a dirty condenser coil or some other problem possibly. check to see if the fan is running, and if the condenser is dust clogged.

any and all control settings should be in the middle of the control's maximum range scale.

The alarm usually is telling you that the temperature inside the freezer is not low enough. Check the door seals with dollar bill. Shut the door on the bill and try to move it. Try all around the door. The bill should resist being pulled out. If you can't pull it out the door is too tight. If it comes out easily you have an air leak. you can adjust a freezer door by loosening the hinges, pushing the door into place and re-tightening the hinge.

defrost drain tray is not draining drain is frozen or plugged