Top 20 Sony STR-DE675 Receiver Questions & Answers

Take 2 rca wires a white one and a red one. On the back of the receiver, find a source you are not using( md/tape or aux ) connect red to red, white to white Turn on receiver and on the front, push related button( aux ). This should work. Good luck

I would check the solder connections on the bottom. Relays are notorious for breaking the solder connections thus becoming intermittent

Maybe there could be a loose wire inside try taking it apart and searching for any thing loose do you have a warranty on it

I assume you have purchase a universal remote control...if the programming codes for your Sony STR-DE675 receiver is not listed in the remotes code guide, then you purchased the wrong type universal remote. Make sure you get a universal that does stereo equipment or check eBay for a reasonable price on the original.

asegurate que los cables de las bocinas no se hayan juntado si fue asi tendras que canviar el circuito integrado de sonido.por eso se proteje.

I didn't look up the schematic for this exact model, but many of these units have the surround amps on "cards" just like a computer has a video card or network card, and these can come unseated in a move. Open up the unit, and reseat any cards that are in the unit.
You can check fuses while you're inside the unit as well.

try to check the plug.,,, unplug then plug it again then try to power it up...

There is a relay on the power supply circuit board that might be faulty or has bad solder connections. If this relay does not work, power is not applied and everything is "dead". I had to re-solder the speaker relays on my STR-DE675 because they had cracked solder joints which made them work intermittently. It's possible that the power relay is what is causing your problems. If it has bad solder joints it might click, but power might not be able to pass trough the joints. Does it still click when you turn it on or did it only do this once?

Not if it comes back. Blown isn't a temporary self-healing condition.

Generally speaking, an amp protects itself from heat, shorts and overloads by refusing to turn on or stay on.

Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output or marginally low impedance loading by the speakers; and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.

You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.

If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.

If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'naked'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced hands-on tech.

Check for loose speaker connections as a root cause for intermittent shutdown.

STR is a very sensitive ic module of the audio system and it always has a tendancy to heat up quickly and has some basic precautions to be maintained for operating this. correct speakers should have been connected so on..



if you are technically very confident open up your system try to locate the str ic unit check whether the contacts of the heat sync (aluminium metal chunk screwed with the ic to absorb the heat) has been correctly fixed. (pls note- manufacturers will always have appropriately heat synced it try to use it in a cooler place)

There's a button that turns the speakers OFF right above the headphone jack.

Get the manual: retrevo.com

Get yourself a manual at retrevo.com and follow the setup to enable and adjust all the speakers.

what is your source? (DVD, Cable, Blueray, etc.) My guess is that you have your source set to output PCM instead of bitstream. Check this in the menu of your output source. If it is PCM, it will only output 2 channels unless you are using an HDMI cable. If you are using an HDMI cable, the sound should be the same, but it is sent directly to the speakers using your receiver as a pass-thru. Your receiver will not detect it as dolby or dts as it is not actually doing any processing. When you check the menu, bitstream may also be listed as "digital". Hope this works for you.

Sure! Any P.C. with an audio output jack, like an 8mm phono jack to stereo for example, can be connected to any audio input on the receiver.

In most of the cases with this kind of problem there is either a problem at the speakers wirings or not enough air ventilation of the amplifier.
Check out that the wires for the speakers are not short-circuit each other. at the speaker's end and at the amplifier's end also. If you are capable of using a multimeter check the wiring.
Check out that there is plenty of area around the amplifier, especially the warm seasons, in order to avoid overheating the device.

In case of a problem or clarification, don't hesitate to post.

Thanks and regards
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Stelios
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Why not? People have been known to run them with lesser receivers and sources.

When one asks questions involving two components it is always necessary to know the identity of both. "Color TV" is kind of generic.

Please define the TV and which direct video input on IT produces B/W and exactly how it is connected and from what specific source unit. Then try swapping something that works, say, the DVD, into the "B/W" input to see if that helps.

If you're using component video cables you could have one loose or defective.

almost any model from Denon's new lineup.

here is a link to Denon

I have a 4310ci they retail for $1999.00 but I bought mine for $1299

A good rule of thumb is your receiver and your speakers should cost about the same.

other brands are:
Yamaha = pretty good
Onkyo = high failure rate
Sony = good quality but so so sound
Integra = same as Onkyo
Marantz = ok sound but so so quality

I should probably not point out that most Audiophiles look down upon the Bose corporation.

Bose was the first to introduce the satellite / subwoofer system to the market back in the early 80's and has a big presence in professional audio. However their design does not produce neither crisp highs nor substantial lows. the basics of audio are that sound is produced by moving air, the more air you move the more sound. Bose has definitly found a way to "cheat" by utilizing both forward and rearward motion of the cone by encosing it in their " accoustimass" module but many of the frequencies required for true clarity are merely lost due to the drivers inability to create them.

If you choose a receiver such as one from the Denon line they have a feature called "Audyssey" Audyssey uses a microphone to calculate room acoustics as well as to apply equalization to help make up for what the speaker isn't producing enough of.

Now usually when you disrespect Bose you always get someone upset and having sold Bose myself for YEARS I would only argue take a grill off. Instead of a high quality tweeter or woofer you will generally find a cheap paper component.

There is a purpose to me going off in a tangent about Bose. IF you are considering replacing your receiver because you feel that its not driving the speakers to your liking or maybe isn't "clear" enough then unfortunately my diagnosis isn't that you need a more powerful receiver but better speakers.

The purpose of upgrading a receiver should be more to get updated surround processing, better video distribution, multi room audio video etc..Unfortunatly unless you are trading up from a 80's low end: Pioneer, Technics, Kenwood, Sherwood or Sony the sound improvement won't be that great.

Sorry but hope that helps

They don't actually discuss this in the manual so here's my $.02...

Headphones are stereo-only so if your movie audio is multichannel digital the receiver won't mix it down for you. Even if it DID pass the front channels through to the headphones you would miss the other 5.1 channels so the experience would be unsatisfying.

If you connect and select a stereo analog connection for your movie source the headphones will pass it through for those times you want to use them.

You can pull the Left and Right stereo program from either MD/Tape or Video 2 Audio OUTputs. Run a pair of RCA cables to the Active EQ's Line IN; then the EQ's Line OUT to the Cavalier's Line IN.

If the Tape output you're borrowing the program from is already connected to something, use RCA-cable splitters.

Remember to NEVER activate the monitor for that Tape function during playback of any digital audio source - it disables the digital input; or if the 901's are being used - it will remove the signal to the Cavalier.

Now if you wanted to use the 901's in your movie listening this will work with two limitations

Your receiver doesn't have preamp outputs for Front Left and Right out so you'd be extracting only the mixed-down 2-channel version of whatever the Sony is processing.

You'll have to manually control the Cavalier's volume because the pre-out you're using is BEFORE the Sony's volume control.

It might still be an improvement over what you have now.