20 Most Recent GE WJRR4170E Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

Panel on back remove screws. Top, push springs just under top in there should be two about 2 to three inches from each outside edge. Top should release to turn up.

Remove the front panel, then look at the motor to see what codes the motor is flashing. There should be a green light on the motor that will be flashing. Post back your findings.

follow this steps and fix it. GOD BLESS YOULid Switch This is the most common reason for the washer not spinning or agitating. This is easy to check. You will need to remove the switch, this varies with model type but the testing will be the same. When the lid is closed the switch should have continuity when the lid is opend the switch should have no continuity. If it differs replace it. Timer To check the timer you will need to refer to the wiring diagram or disassemble to access the motor. Check the leads from the timer to the motor when turned to a wash cycle this should have 120 volts. If not replace it , if it does the timer is not the problem. Motor To check the motor you will need to disassemble the washer to access the motor. First you can check the motor windings, to do this remove the plug and connect ohmeter to terminals. Refer to the tech sheet or service manual for the proper reading. Check motor for shorts by connecting ohmeter to terminals and motor housing should have no continuity. Connect voltmeter to motor wire connector and check for voltage. You should have 120 volts, if you do and the motor does not run replace the motor. If it does not have power the problem is elsewhere. Belt If your washer is a belt drive type make sure the belt is tight. Check for black soot from belt wear. Replace if it has excessive wear or broke. Motor Coupler This is a fairly common problem with direct drive machines but inexpensive and easy to replace. The Motor Coupler transfers power from the motor to the transmission. The following video will walk you through the replace it Transmission The transmission does not usually fail. To check this on a direct drive remove the motor and then turn tub inside. If it spins freely with no noise the problem is elsewhere. If it is noisy it needs replacing this is expensive and depending on the age of your machine you may not want to replace it. On a belt drive remove the belts and spin tub.

Can you move the agitator freely by hand?

Their could be sediment or trash in the air bell at the base of the tub. To clear the hose remove it from the water lvel switch and blow through it. Then reconnect the hose and pump out the water. After pumping out the water retry. Service manual and much more is HERE If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

The washer has 4 rods that support the tub for suspension and four rubber straps to keep lateral movement to a minimum. With time the straps which are called bungys get stretched and worn out. Some times water sloshes over the top of the tub . SERVICE MANUAL If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

I just had the same thing happen to me. You have to replace the electronic part inside of the unit, where the knob attaches. That runs about $76.00 and I think I'll shop for a new machine.

i from retired Englishman in SW France
,
(no promises but it's worth carrying this out anyway!)

I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
(If these actions have not cured the problem, it could be the control board OR the main motor. Motors will show weaknesses when commanded to spin.)

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Can you manually force it to go to other cycles? If so then the timer or control board is the issue. If you can't even make it advance then the control board is most likely. Check your pump and make sure it is not clogged and therre fore njot allowing the waqter to drain out =as it ias supposed to. If the water is not pumpiong out the washer will not advance