20 Most Recent GE Freezer  14.8 Cu. Ft. Manual Defrost Chest Freezer - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Check for blocked condenser coils. or a stalled condenser fan motor. This could be your problem. Also check if you have ice build up in the freezer back panel. if so, you have a defrost problem and this could be a defrost timer,heater or defrost thermostat. The worst case it could be an inefficient compressor.

First off if the compressor is running then you need to clean the condenser. If the compressor is hot and not running. The. Compressor is shot and needs to be replaced.

Is the motor running. Check if it has enough refrigerant gas. If the freezer runs normally for a long time and switches off, then replace the thermostat.

A "potential" relay is a voltage controlled start component for the compressor. If your sure the potential relay is bad, not the start capacitor or a seized compressor, Order one from G.E. and replace it.

You need to unplug the freezer because the compressor is getting hot and the reason the compressor is trying to start but cannot. This clicking is possibly a defective=> WR7X225 Start Relay or a defectve WR62X10058 Run Capacitor If you have an OHM meter you can test the compressor windings. as in the instructions here=> Unplug the freezer and remove the back panel that covers the compressor. There should be 3 wires going inside the cover of the compressor. Mark all 3 and mark their location so if compressor is OK you can put them back in same order. The plastic cover may snap on and you may need to squeeze the sides to unlock the cover and sometimes there is a metal clip holding the cover in place. Remove the cover. May look hard but it's simple. There will be three connections under the cover and 2 will go through the start relay. Unplug them leaving the three prongs exposed. They may be marked R =Run, S=Start and C=Common. Set your meter on continuity and then begin by testing 2 at a time until you have checked S to R and R to C an C to S and S to R again. You should get a reading all the way around. If no reading between any of the pairs as you go around you should get no reading between any two the compressor has an open winding and is defective. Then if it passes that test then touch one probe to R and the other to the copper pipes or clean metal on outside of compressor, then S to metal outside and C to metal outside. If you get a reading this way even just a little. The compressor is a burnout. Then let me know what you find. Thanks, Sea Breeze Have you already solve this problem?

the power was off ; now the light is blinking

if it is not adjust your product ,it is matter otherwise not.

your freezer might be having blockage on the drain pipe thus not allowing water to flow on the drain tray if the drain tray is mounted on the compressor and its dry then the compressor or the condensor pipes are burning the drain tray. the solution to this problem is to service your freezer

Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

The gasket seals are getting weak.

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Check wiring for loosened connection, and check you haven't broken any pipework!

All fridge and freezers should be plugged into an NON-GFCI protected outlet, since the inital start of the compressor can cause the GFCI to detect a millivolt surge, when the compressor starts, causing the GFCI to trip.

If this is in a kitchen, you should change out the outlet to a non-GFCI outlet BUT only to a single outlet that only has the freezer plugged into.

If it's in a basement, garage, or some other place with a GFCI outlet, you can change out that one outlet to a standard single outlet device of which ONLY the freezer will be plugged into and remain code compliant. You will need to make sure that any other outlets served by that current GFCI outlet stay protected, by installing the GFCI you swap out, and put it in place of the NEXT outlet in the circuit.

By doing that, you will have the first outlet that was the GFCI, now a single outlet NON-GFCI serving the freezer, but the next outlet in the branch circuit gets a GFCI outlet, thus protecting the rest of the circuit, in compliance with the NEC (National Electric Code)

If you need further help with this, please comment back and I'll check back later and provide you more detailed info. Of course, be sure to turn off the breaker to this circuit before making any changes to the outlets, etc.

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!