20 Most Recent KitchenAid KGRC608LSS Gas Kitchen Range Questions & Answers

We had the same problem, and we tricked it into running it's cycle be doing the following;

1. Wrap a wet paper towel around the probe, plug it in, and close the door. Then follow the temp. probe directions in the manual:
2. Set probe temp. at 130 degrees, then select a bake cycle. We selected convect bake.
3. Set oven temp for 275 degrees, but maybe any temp over the probe temp would work.
4. Then start. The cycle took 12 minutes to complete, and when it was finished, turn the oven off and then open the door and unplug the probe.
5. Now everything works fine.

there is no pilot light on this model. It could be the bake igniter. May also be the control board. I would go with the igniter since they fail more often (even if glowing) than any other component.

Try this,FAULT ERROR: F1 E3NOTE:Make sure harness to P1 connector is correctly installedper wiring diagram before performing the following steps:STEP 1 Power off and wait 5 seconds.STEP 2 Power on and wait 5 seconds.STEP 3 Press the following keys:CONVECTION - CONV. BROIL CLEAN BAKED GOODS 190 TIMER SETNON-CONVECTION - CLEAN STOP TIME 0 OVEN LIGHT 1STEP 4 Press START.STEP 5 Make sure Timer ID is the same as the oven.STEP 6 Press CANCEL to exit.

I have the same problem with my KGRT607H. I took off the control panel, and wiggled some wires, then it worked (the LED display). Seems to be a loose connection, with one of the wires going into the connector. I myself haven't replace the connector yet, I just take the control panel apart, and wiggle the wires. Pain in the ****, so one day I will try to replace it either that or try to secure it better. My next step is to find out which wire leading into the connector. (figuring its either a bad wire). On my control panel, its the connector that has all the 'white' wires going into it, not the coloured ones.

F3 - E0 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (upper oven, if double oven) Replace Oven temperature sensor (RTD)

ok if you have an amp r multi meter do an amp test on the wires that go to the ignitor even though the ignitor does get red it still has to draw 3.3 amps if it is less then that it will take alot longer for your oven to light if after you perform the test you have a lower amp reading replace the ignitor hope this helps btw this problem I do see alot on most ovens

Well it sounds like it is either the control key pad or the ERC(control module) is defective. The first thing you will need to verify is the condition of the ribbon cable that goes from the control pad to the ERC. You will need to unplug the range from the electrical outlet and then remove the back panel of the range. Now inspect the ribbon cable for any visible defects to it. Sometimes the cable will arc across itself and cause a short. Inspect each one of the lines(wires) on the ribbon cable and make sure they are not shorted. Now check to make sure the cable is found properly seated. If it is found loose or mis-aligned then remove and re-install it properly. You can also use a pencil eraser to clean the contacts on the ribbon cable while you have it dis-connected. Also verify that the wiring harness is properly seated and there is voltage going to the ERC. Hopefully these steps might get the range working again. The top burners/igniters can still work even if the touchpad or ERC is bad because they do not control the circuits for the igniters(they are mechanical switches) and mechanical burner valves. If not you might need to replace both the ERC and the Touchpad in combination to get the range to work again.

Replace the oven temperature sensor.