20 Most Recent KitchenAid KITCHEN AID 5 Quart Artisan Series Stand Mixer - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Hello, Alice - The motor for your mixer may need lubrication or some kind of repair. The posts on this online forum may prove helpful: https://www.walleyecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=421826 Also, read the advice in this blog: https://www.foodonthefood.com/food_on_the_food/2009/04/how-to-repair-a-kitchenaid-mixer-yourself.html A link in the blog will lead to: http://artisanbreadbaking.com/ka_greasing/ which provides step-by-step instructions to opening the mixer, cleaning the operating parts, greasing the gears (with food grade lubricant), and other repair tips. Note: You can probably find food grade lubricant at a restaurant supply store. This is the link to a Sears website where you may be able to locate replacement parts, if needed: https://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/brands-products/Kitchenaid-Parts/Stand-Mixer-Parts Best wishes.

is it a K45 or a K45SS? If it is a K45 you will have to replace the filters inside and probably the speed control plate, if it is a K45SS then you need a new phase control board. The K45 is pre 1978 and the K45SS is post 1978. Your information is correct on pre 1978 K45 models that the capacitor is bad, but it might be cheaper to go garage sale hunting and find a second machine as the parts are no longer made and having spares on hand may be a significant advantage in the future, also there are a great many of the K45SS parts that will also repair the K45 mixer so it may not be a practical solution. Watch ebay regularly for K45 parts, they come up every couple of months. On the parts diagram also look for the K5 diagram as it is identical to the K45, one is a 5 quart mixer and the other one is 4.5 quart, same parts same motor same everything.

had the same problem with mine, and couldn't read the values, so took one out of another mixer that was good. the tested value on the good one was around 107 nano farads. run your mixer without the cap for a short time only, to see if the speed problem is corrected. If slow speeds will work, then you know it to be the capacitor. Do not leave out for long period of time, you will burn out contacts and poss. outher components Ken

ManualsLib has the use and operation manual for the Kitchenaid KGRT500 free-standing gas range here: https://www.manualslib.com/products/Kitchenaid-Kgrt500-263024.html . I hope this helps. Cindy Wells

If it is assembled properly there is not a lot I can think of to cause that problem. Sometimes pushing the hub on can move the shaft up, I would normally whack the hub up to shock the hub on a bit at a time until the shaft is beginning to appear out of the hub hole. You need to have the shaft hole roughly aligned with the hub pin holes or you'll have no hope. Sometimes the pin hole in the shaft can have a burr that will grip the hub, a file fixes that.

What do you call the planetary gear? The planetary hub is held on by a pin thru the shaft that is driven out with a hammer and punch. The small gear in the hub is held on by a circlip on the top side of the beater shaft. The main planetary gives very little trouble and is a press fit in the lower gear case.

There are three thermal cutout that to look for One To One might have a red button in the middle that you can press to reset failing that probably door interlock

If it is running too fast at start on low speed there are 2 likely causes. The speed control plate or the low speed stop screw are out of adjustment. If this problem happened instantly rather than getting slowly worse over a long time then it is unlikely to be this. The other cause is a faulty phase board, that is the very small PCB under the back cover at the very top. It has 4 wires coming off it. They are not at all expensive to buy and easy to replace. One screw holds it on and just the 4 wires to clip off the terminals on the black speed control plate.

I make sure that the hole in the shaft is going to be in alignment with the hole in the planetary before offering the planetary up. Once it's on as far as it wants to go I encourage the planetary up as much as possible with a soft face mallet. Once you have it up that far you can normally see the beginning of the shaft hole if you look into the planetary hole. I have a thin very pointed stainless steel scriber that tapers all the way from pin size to the size of the hole. For me it's just then a matter of jiggling it about to with the scriber to make the 2 holes line up.

have the speed controller repaired / replaced

it is most likely the armature. You can test the coils with a meter set to ohms. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/motor-control-parts-for-whirlpool-k5ss.html

Check the carbon brushes and look for a broken or detached wire under the back cover.

Husband will need to check the carbon brushes and make sure they aren't worn out. They are also keyed and only will work one way. Check for continuity through the field wires one at a time. There should be a circuit between a field wire and a brush holder.

there is not a fuse

"Tried to take it apart" seems to indicate that you didn't get it apart. If you want to straighten the lever properly that's the only way you are going to get it straight. If there are any other problems they will be revealed during the taking apart process. Back off, pedestal off, planetary off and split the cases.

Here's one here https://www.amazon.com/KitchenAid-8-Quart-Stand-Mixer-Bowl/dp/B01N6NBODM

Honestly the easiest way by far is to put the metal shaft of the new one into a vice and with 2 screwdrivers carefully lever it off and then with a soft hammer tap the knob onto the original shaft. If you want to do it by replacing the whole arm and knob you will have to split the gear cases.

It sounds like it's been seriously damaged. I would suggest taking it to a repair shop.

Try pushing the pin in from the other side, forcing it in is better than making the hole any bigger as a loose pin will allow head wobble when mixing. Get the pin thru the pedestal without the motor, then get the pin through the motor neck then put them together and get the pin thru both parts. You need to have the locking lever in the release position to do this more easily. Make sure the pin isn't damaged on the end. It shouldn't be damaged on both ends unless you've been abusing it.

Sorry, that answer was for someone else. The only things I've seen to cause high speed running are out of adjustment screws at the top or the bottom of your control plate or the phase board. Start point for the top screws is 8 full turns in from being not even in the hole (both sides) and on speed 1 the bottom screw does not even touch that step in the flat rod that activates the switch and moves the control plate.