Leviton 8299 Combination Switch / Smart lock GFCI Outlet - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

most if not all these padlocks when first manufactured the manufactures has to set it with some digits if it four digits lock , manufacture use eg., 0000 or 1234 and if it six digits it uses 000000 or 123456 and so on the idea is that when the lock is first bought it comes with these digits then by following their instruction you can change the code you wish to have

It sounds as though the wires coming in to the back side are 9 back stabbed ). With the power off, grip the back stabbed wires one at a time and pull as you twist the receptacle side to side. the wires should back out.

You have a short somewhere? If you have AFCI (arc fault) instead of GFCI, then there is probably a loose wire Troubleshoot steps on following link: http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html Gene Water Heater Timers Save Money If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

The hot should be on the gold screw the neutral on the silver If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/scott_87482045335a4757

1) Copy following link for wiring combo device:http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#combo22) Neutral wire is required for outlet to work.3) Outlet will be ON all the time. Some combo devices can be wired so that switch controls outlet, but other models cannot be wired so switch controls outlet.Look for break-away fin located between dark screws on combo device. If device has break-away fin, then switch can control outlet. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

have 5 wires where to put them

Plugs in Malaysia are type G and match those from Great Britain: The ground slot pointing vertical, and both 230Volt power slots horizontal.Copy following link for wiring illustrationhttp://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-240-volt-outlets.html#type-GPlugs in US are 120Volt. Plugs elsewhere in world are 230-240VoltBe advised:US produces 60 Hz electricity so generator rotates 60 times per second.Malaysia has 50 Hz, same as Britian.Unless your electrical device is rated for both 50/60 cycles, then a device from US market will not work in Malaysia. Look at rating label on each device for cycles. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

You want a light switch on extension cord.
What kind of light switch do you have? You posted under GFCI device which is totally different than ordinary wall switch.
And what type of extension cord?
Add a comment with more information.

If ordinary light switch is installed on 3-wire outdoor extension cord:
Slice open the side of cord and you see 3 wires: black, white and green.
Cut the black wire in half and connect each end to brass screw on light switch.

If ordinary light switch is install on indoor 2-wire extension cord.
Look at plug and notice there is a wide blade and narrow blade.
Narrow blade is hot. You want the wire connected to narrow blade.
Cut that wire in half, but do not cut other wire.
Connect each end of wire to brass screw on light switch

If you want to install line switch onto indoor 2-wire extension cord:
Narrow blade is connected to hot wire.
Cut that wire in half, but do not cut other wire.
Open line switch.
Connect each end of black wire to brass screw. OR if no screws, then place cut wire in open grooves.
Tuck other wire into groove and then reassemble switch.

The switch itself needs power on one side and load on the other. The load should share the neutral and the switch should be making or breaking the line voltage. If the switch is meant to be powered by the receptacle power wire, it should have a metal tab going from the receptacle's black to one side of the switch. You may need to pigtail the black power wire to one side of the switch and connect the load's black wire to the other side.

It sounds like you have power in your light, power is fed down on the white wire and the black wire is switched and connects back up to the light. You do not have a "neutral" in the box, so you cannot run an outlet with the wire that is currently available.

If I understand correctly you are replacing ordinary switch with switch-plug-GFCI device.
And one cable enters the box, and the cable has 1 black and 1 white and 1 ground wire.

To correctly wire combo GFCI device, you need a Neutral wire.
If your switch box has 1 cable, then it does not have a Neutral.
The neutral is required for GFCI operation, and also to power new outlet.

To test for Neutral wire:
Separate wires for testing.
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot line wire from breaker box.
Hot is identified.
Test Hot wire to all other wires inside box, except bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Neutral wire.

> If switch box does not have Neutral, then device cannot be wired correctly.
> If you do have a Neutral, then open following link for correct wiring of device:
http://www.fixya.com/support/t8269774-okay_same_problem_cooper

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Also take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you via e-mail while you work on circuit or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

You are installing a combo device with switch and outlet.
The outlet is tamper resistant so a child cannot stick a key into outlet and get shocked.
For the outlet to work, a 2-prong plug must be inserted.

Wiring the device:
Electricians don't guess, they test.
Device has different colored screws: dark, silver and brass.

Separate wires for testing.
Do not unwind wires that are twisted together.
White wires that are twisted together and located in back of box are included in testing.
Use ordinary 2-lead tester.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from power.
Turn power ON.

Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire. This wire connects to dark screw.

Hot is identified.
Test Hot wire to all other wires, except bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Neutral wire. Neutral connects to silver screw.
If you do not have a Neutral wire, then outlet will not work for that location.
You can get the outlet to work by connecting bare ground to silver screw, but that is violation of code.

Last wire goes to Load (light, fan, motor).
Load wire connects to brass screw.
In your case, this is red wire.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on switch or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Your question is not 100% clear because you don't say exactly what device you are wiring or what wires are inside the box.
You posted under switch-plug combo with GFCI.
Add a comment with clear description if instructions below do not apply to your project.

Electricians don't guess, they test, so lets walk through the steps.

1) If you have GFCI combo, there are markings on back of device for 'LINE' and 'LOAD'.
There are also 2 wires sticking out of back of GFCI.

Lets test your wires.
Separate wires inside box for testing.
Use ordinary 2-wire tester. Tape wood sticks to tester leads to keep hands away from power.
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire. Hot wire connects to Brass-colored Line screw.
Hot wire is identified.
Test Hot wire to all other wires, except bare ground.
Tester lights up on Neutral wire. Neutral connects to silver-colored Line screw.
Load wires are wires that go to the fan,light or motor.
Load wires connect to two wires sticking out of back of GFCI device.
Other wires located in electric box could connect to the Load screws, but it is unclear if you have other wires.

2) If you have regular combo switch plug without GFCI, then device has 3 color-coded screws: dark, brass and silver.
Hot connects to dark screw.
Neutral connects to silver screw
Black wire to Load connects to brass screw.
White wire to Load also connects to silver screw

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You can find relative values of collectible stuff by seeing what prices things are going for on ebay. I have no idea if anybody collects this kind of thing, but I am constantly surprised by what people collect. Try searching several different ways using the words switch, collector, collectible, antique, vintage, etc. good luck

Leviton 8299 combination switch and receptacle with GFCI manual
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Leviton-8299-instruction-manual.pdf

You don't say what kind of device you are replacing.
Instructions below may be way off base if you are trying to replace a 3-way switch.
Instructions below are for replacing a switch-plug combo.
Add a comment any time, and clarify your device your are replacing.

Electricians don't guess, they test.
First thing we need to test is Hot and Neutral wires.

Note where each wire was connected to old device before removal.
Note the wire that was connected to brass, dark, and silver screws.
The screw color is coded, and will verify testing.

Separate wires and turn on power.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester will light up on Hot wire. Mark the hot wire.
Test Hot wire to each other wire (except bare ground wire)
Tester will light up on Neutral wire. Mark the Neutral.
The other two wires are presumed to go to Load (light, fan, motor)

Now lets look at back of the 8299 device.
On back of device directly behind receptacle part of device is the word LINE.
Hot wire connects to brass colored LINE screw.
Neutral wire connects to silver colored LINE screw.
These two wires will power the device, and power the receptacle.

Next we want to wire the switch.
Notice on drawing below, that switch Loads (light fan motor) are connected to two wires on back of 8299.
Again referring to back of device as reference point, black wire going to Load connects to wire on left side. White wire going to Load connects to wire on right side.
Now turn on power and test that switch and receptacle both operate as expected.
If operation is not correct, then add a comment and say what the second black and white wires connect to.

Turn the top of the lock 180 degree's so it is pointing away from the lock and push it down. You can now set your new code.

Hope this helps

See product to make sure we are talking about same thing:
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?oe=utf-8&rls

If this is not your device, add a comment any time or fixya offers phone support for a fee.

This ordinary switch-outlet combo.
One side of device: there are dark screws on one side of device: Black hot wire from circuit breaker connects to either dark screw. The dark screws are connected by a brass plate, so both screws are identical.
Other side of device: there are silver and brass screws.
Wire going to Load (light fan motor) connects to brass screw.
White neutral wire connects to silver screw.

Here's how to test for Hot and Neutral wires.
Separate all wires for testing.
Turn on power.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire >> this wire will connect to dark colored screw.
Now you have identified Hot wire >> test hot wire to other wires (excluding bare ground).
Tester lights up on Neutral > this wires connects to silver screw.
Final wire goes to Load and connects to brass screw

If I remember right this switch has two Line terminals (silver)(brass) two load terminals (silver)(brass) and two switch terminals. Assuming you have located the incoming line, and one of your cables goes to another load ( one or more other receptacles) you would connect that cable to the load side (white-silver) black(brass) as you stated. Now to switch the light, if you don't want it GFCI protected, connect it's neutral(white) to the incoming line terminal (silver) Then connect a short jumper from the incoming (brass) terminal to one of the switch terminals. Connect the other wire to light (black) to the other switch terminal. If you can reach the light from the floor, then connect these wires to the load side of the GFCI and it will then be ground fault protected.

First you must determine which wires in the box are LINE and which are LOAD. Remove the wire nut from the two white wires and separate them. The LINE wires are the black and white wires that come from your breaker box. The LOAD wires are the black and white wires that go to the fan. You can determine this easily with a non-contact voltage detector (about $15). Or temporarily hook up a black & white pair to a lamp. In either case, make sure the exposed wires won't be touched and turn on the breaker for your test.
I will assume that you want the GFCI to protect the fan. Refer the picture (Back View) in the upper right corner of the front side (page 1) of the instruction sheet. If you lost the instruction sheet, you can find it on this page: http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?item=417265&section=11624&minisite=10021 Connect your black LINE wire to the upper right (LINE, brass) terminal. Connect your white LINE wire to the upper left (LINE , silver) terminal. Remove the yellow tape that covers the load terminals. Connect your white LOAD wire to the lower left (LOAD, silver) terminal Connect your black LOAD wire to one of the two switch leads with a wire nut. Connect the other switch lead to the lower right (LOAD, brass) terminal.

By two wires if you mean just a black and white wire then this is a switch leg and you cannot use this switch at this location. All you have here is the power coming in on the black wire an leaving on the white wire. The switch just breaks the flow of electricity. An outlet cannot be used here because there is no neutral wire. This is how a switch leg is wired.
If you have something different post back.