20 Most Recent Sharp R-1510 Microwave Oven Questions & Answers

Sounds like the inverter (power supply for cooking) or the magnatron which does the work----neither are cheap parts.

This may not solve your problem, but on my Sharp R315J microwave, the little plastic pin that pushes forward on the inside of the start button, had broken off and it wouldn't start. The Minute Plus button would start the microwave, so I knew the microwave worked, so I tried to find a piece of plastic that I could glue into the start button hole, because the part doesn't exist and you have to buy the whole door for $100 plus shipping. Nothing I could find was small enough, so I started looking for a new microwave.
While ouside doing lawn work I noticed a small bird tail feather and the end looked to be the perfect size. I snipped off the pointed end and then up about 3/8" to make a little rod to replace the plastic one that broke. It fit perfectly!!! I didn't even have to glue the inside end, it stays put even after repeated door opens. This is sturdy material and looks to last a long time. When it wears out, I have a cat, there's always a few feathers around. I hope this saves someone else a hundred bucks, like it did me.

There have been some changes to some control panel parts, such as the select buttons. It's covered in a page one bulletin here.

The service manual is here. You should also refer to the base model manual here.

You can order parts from Encompass here or you can call them toll-free at 866-779-5835.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

If you need further help, or need your keypad replaced, etc., feel free to contact me directly here.

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That would be a bad bottom door switch, or its mount.

It's a pretty simple DIY fix.

See these files:
door switches
service manual
base service manual

I'm assuming it's JVM2070SKC02?

No matter, because sadly on the 2070-series ovens, GE does not make repair documents or separate controller parts available.

So you would have to order a whole new control panel assembly at a cost of several hundred dollars.

It looks like yours is a Canadian model, and if so I would have no idea where to get the parts.

Maybe GE Customer Support can help you if it's under warranty or close. Consult your owner's manual.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

I suspect a bad door switch or door switch mount.

See these files:

http://031d26d.namesecurehost.com/mwd/safety.txt
http://031d26d.namesecurehost.com/mwd/disassembly.txt
http://031d26d.namesecurehost.com/mwd/doorsw.txt

You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help here.

I recommend that you bookmark that link to your favorites.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

If this is a Sharp R1500-series microwave (you didn't mention the model number but posted under that) then the most likely problems are:

- broken Start button see here
- bad door switch see here
- bad keypad or other problem see here

The service manual is here.

You will need to unplug the unit, and then start to remove the screws that hold the casing on to gain access to the control panel.

We'd be happy to help you with free assistance - including part numbers, part sources, and service info - if you'll post a new help request to FixYa including the following:

• brand
• full model number
• detailed symptoms
  

check both the high voltage capacitor and diode(discharge the cap as it can have 2,000+ v.a.c. on it)it sounds as though the h.v. cap is leaking,then healing itself,its also possible the magnetron tube is getting leaky,but they don't usually heal themselves,my bet is its the h.v. capacitor,when it totally breaks-down it will blow the internal ceramic safety fuse

i dont have the product key window xp please send me the key

You should have a place where you can access the top of the microwave....open cabinet, etc. There should be 2 bolts holding the unit and a pin used to secure the unit during assembly. Remove the two bolts on each side...leave the pin in place of course.
Have someone help you lift the front of the microwave, and then remove the front pin. Tilt the microwave down a little, then lift the back of the microwave to release it from the wall bracket. Take your time and don't rush. Once the microwave releases from the back wall bracket, carry it to a place like a secure table or rest it on the floor.
Be sure to unplug the microwave before removal.

There is normally a fuse internally accessible that can be user replaced. Fuses can fail due to metal fatigue; the flexing that occurs when current flows and stops. The high voltage circuit customarily is fused separately from the control circuitry and the high voltage circuit needs a fairly high amperage fuse; possibly up to 20 amps.

Removing the housing generally requires the removal of a few screws (done AFTER the plug has been out for a while) and lifting off of the housing.
Look for a longish (20-25mm - ~1 inch) ceramic cylinder in some type of fuse holder. If you have any kind of multimeter at home (everyone should, they are cheap) you can check if the fuse has continuity, if not, most of the large chain hardware stores will have the replacements; buy two. If another fails, don't bother to replace it, that is a sign of another component failure.
If the magnetron hasn't shorted, a repair is marginally economical.
If you still have the warranty conditions, you might check to see if the magnetron has a longer warranty than the whole unit; they once were warranteed for 5 years but if only the fuse has failed, Sharp will probably charge for the repair.
You can buy a usable digital multimeter at Radio Shack or auto parts stores for under $20 or if near a Harbor Freight tool store, under $10.

oops, never run a m/wave with no load (empty)
Try to clean around the area that sparked (if it has combusted plastic then you need new parts) as when empty a m/wave energy will tend to focus around any particles remaining (bits of food). There is possibility it has damaged the main components (magnatron) and this poss renders it bejond repair unless unit is a very expensive one or commercial.
Best bet is to put something in it (water or potato etc) and try it again, get ready to turn off at wall if sparking happens
Tri-cat

there are two switches that are operated by the door prongs as they latch the door closed .. both switches have to be operated to enable the microwave ...you either have something cought in the door seal preventing it from fully closing or one of those switches is out of adjustment .. unfortunatly you have to remove the cabinet to get at the adjustments ... the switches are set so that the door has to be completly closed so there is no RF leakage .. so its a rather critical adjustment .. there is potentially fatal voltage and current inside the microwave so make certain that its not plugged in if you do anything inside ... it would be better to take it to a competent repair person .. that fix should only take a few minutes .. they would have the proper gauges to set it precisely ... if you feel confident that you can do it then you will be able to hear a click as each switch operates as the door is closed .. you should hear two clicks if you shut the door carefully .. loosen the switch that is not operating and move it just slightly until it reliably clicks each time the door is closed .. tighten it there .. make sure the door and its seal are not bent, warped dirty or otherwise damaged ... its a good idea to check for radiation leakage after any microwave fix .. there is a low cost instrument for doing this .. (microwave radiation leakage detecter) ... your repair person would likely have a better one than you can buy .. ...