20 Most Recent Rheem 40 Gallon FVR NATGAS Low WATER HEATER 6YR 22V40SF - Page 6 Questions & Answers

If you are referring to the plastic plugs that are in the cold water supply (blue) and hot water output (red) lines, they are only there to keep any debris out of the lines before connecting, so pull them out and toss them.

Turn water off and remove pipes between shut-off valve and water heater.
Water heater inlet may be clogged.
Pipes might be filled with sediment.

If clog is not there, then shut off water to house and remove shut-off valve located above tank.

how old is your heater?? and is it located outside?

What you need to do is replace it once thay start leaking there no good you need to tern the cold water off going to the water heater drain about five gallons and replace it make Sher you use plenty of pipe compound.

there is a diel in the water heater that has low worm normal hot veryhot you need to tern it up till water gets to your likeing.

When you say drain valve, do you mean TP valve?
Two different things: -drain valve and -TP valve

-Drain valve is located near bottom of tank and has hose thread on end.
-TP valve is brass and is located on side of tank tank near top on , and has a pipe that runs down within 6" of floor, or pipe goes into a drain pipe. DO NOT CAP OFF TP VALVE because this is safety outlet that prevents extremely hot water from rupturing tank.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Leaking-water-heater.html

1) If drain valve located near bottom of tank is leaking, it can be capped with a garden hose cap from hardware store-home center. Thread cap on end of drain valve.

2) If TP valve is leaking.
a)Turn down thermostats on water heater
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-adjust-water-heater-temperature.html
b)Replace TP valve
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-TP-valve.html
c) Install expansion tank on incoming cold water line
Buy expansion tank at hardware-home center-plumbing supply and tee straight out from cold water line and attach expansion tank. About the size of small football.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Expansion-Tank-1-82.jpg


4) Mythbusters blows up a water heater for your enjoyment U-tube
Video shows that extraordinary pressure is needed to blow up heater.
This event has only been reported once in past 10 years that I have read, and it blew out side of home. Stats for this type event don't exist in insurance company records, so you are safe - just don't cap off TP valve.

5) Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

If water is definitely leaking from under the heater, it must be replaced.

You might have clog in water lines.
If shower is only place where low pressure exists, then clog is probably at shower valve.
Disassemble valve and see if clog will flush out.
From there, you have to keep moving back along cold water line looking for pipe filled with sediment or elbow that has obstruction.

If pressure problem is bad at every cold tap, but doesn't affect Hot water, then clog is inside Cold line somewhere after water heater connects to cold line.
Buy a pressure gauge that connects to water hose.
Buy adapter that also fits pipe thread.
For example Brady BTG 100.
Test outdoor spigot for baseline pressure.
Open cold tap inside house and see how much pressure drops.
Close cold line and open hot tap and see how much pressure drops.

Next, move pressure gauge along cold water line.
Take apart pipes and inspect for obstruction at elbow or pipes filled with sediment.
Look for any place galvanized pipe connects to copper pipe, since this will be likely place for obstruction because of bi-metal corrosion.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks with you over phone while you work on pipes.

Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

the big knob, at the base of the water heater, turn to warm or Hot. if water is not hot after that, you have other issues, it will take a hour or two, for the new settings to take effect.

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Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

try another outlet..so see if same issue you may a clog...if thats not it. you may have a bad water heater. that does not happen much...

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Check temperature probe for thermostat make sure its has contact with tank

Try leaving the water on to the water heater when you open the drain. That should allow the grid to flush out.

does the igniter spark!! if no its probably the igniter.

I have had this problem with a couple of MOR-FLO AMERICAN gas water heaters. What I would suggest is first make sure that combustion air inlet screen on the bottom of the heater is clean of all lint,animal hair,etc. Also clean the screen around outside of heater base, not every installer uses this screen.
Next check to see how thermocouple is positioned in burner compartment. If it is touching the bottom of heater then try to reposition it so there is a little clearance.
Check height of flue through roof and position relative to other roof structures. With these sealed combustion units I have had problems with the pilot light blowing out due to wind speed and direction. I have fixed this problem a couple of times by raising height of flue pipe one or two feet. I hope this helps you. Thanks

sounds like a bad thermal coupling! if the coupling goes bad it will shut gas supply off as a safety precaution. it acts similar to a thermometer, if its bad then you will not get any gas through. it is screwed into gas valve and shuts the gas off. have a good day!! replace thermal coupling!

The pilot light jet may have got a little bit of dirt or grit in it which is preventing it from keeping alight. Try probing the jet with a fine piece of wire to see it the blockage can be dislodged. You may have to unscrew the jet to clear it by blowing air through it. Make sure gas is turned off first before removing any parts.

The pilot light also has a thermocouple that allows gas to the pilot light while the flame is burning. If flame goes out it shuts gas off to the pilot jet. The thermocouple is bypassed by a switch during the initial ignition and once the thermocouple warms up after a minute or two of holding in the bypass switch, it should maintain the pilot. If, after cleaning, the pilot light keeps going out, it would seem that your thermocouple is faulty and needs to be replaced

might have to change regulator..where control is if water htr lights heats water n then goes off..that the problem should check wtr heatr front for 800 number to see if warranty is still good..because it is expensive to buy

need to replace the thermal couple..(little copper wire going from control to pilot..if door to compartment is sealed..you may have to get entire burner assembly..should have an 800 number to call for warranty info..