20 Most Recent Rheem 40 Gallon FVR NATGAS Low WATER HEATER 6YR 22V40SF - Page 4 Questions & Answers

The thermocouple has failed. It is the temp probe that goes from the pilot lite burner area to the control valve. Go to your local plumbng repair shop and buy one. Most appliance parts stores have them also. Take the old one with you and they will hook you up with an exact replacement. They are not that hard to change. Usually a nut or 2 screws in the temp bulb area at the burner end and a nut that threads into the control valve.
Make sure before you install the new one that the area where it mates to the gas valve is clean. Should be about a 20 min job including clean up with replacement parts in hand.

Why do you think the regulator has anything to do with the thermo-couple?if its not the thermo-couple its the flame sensor,you failed to give me the model number of the heater.when does the pilot go out.If its when the gas valve opens its the sensor.

you should have a hose conection at the bottom. Be sure to turn off the watter supply to it first. this can be done by turning it off and find the in put watter supply and then turn it off..

you can go to get another relief valve because if its dripping its probably bad. if you have a clark supply center nearby, you can get one there! or another plumbing place or water heater supply. you may have to drain out some water to bring the level below the valve. Shut off the power to water heater. If electric, turn gas to pilot setting, if a gas water heater. Cut off water supply to water heater as well. It is not necessary to drain the entire tank. Open a hot water faucet, drain water from tank, drain for approximately three to five minutes. Prepare the new relief valve with Teflon tape. Unscrew the relief valve counter-clockwise with a wrench to remove. Turn the water supply back on to water heater. Make sure water is running from the open faucet before turning the power back on. good-day!

first make sure the inlet and outlet valves are open all the way

Sound slike the top element is gone bad and the bottom one is the only one working. Best bet to change out both elements while you have to replace one anyway , turn power off, drain water out and change out. Once you are done open a faucet to get air out of lines when you turn water back on, Once air is out of lines you now can turn power back on.

The releif valve will open if the water gets to hot to discharge hot water out or the relief valve is gone bad and needs to be replaced. the relief vlave protects the heater from high heat and build up of pressure from it over heating.

Not enough information is given.
Add a comment any time.

Why did water heater turn off?
If water heater was exposed to flammable vapors like gasoline, paint thinner, paint, leaking gas line, etc, then the 'single use gas shut off' might have tripped.
If water heater is older and the burner parts never cleaned, then combustion chamber can experience overheating, and that can trigger 'single use shut off.'

Instructions for lighting water heater should be printed on side of heater.
Follow the instructions and see if water heater will light.
Then check if flame is clear blue. If flame is yellow-orange, then burner parts need to be cleaned.
If water heater will not light, then combustion parts may need to be cleaned, and air intake cleaned, and 'single use shut off' could also be tripped.

Also possible that gas control valve thermostat is bad.

Open following link to help identify gas valve and see illustrations and read information about cleaning combustion parts:
http://Waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-gas-water-heater.html#troubleshoot
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-adjust-water-heater-temperature.html#intelli

Open following links to help identify product and download typical manual:
http://www.rheem.com/Products/tank_water_heaters/gas_water_heaters

http://www.rheem.com/product.aspx?id=CC643E03-4C15-4775-B139-E504A95651F7

Typical manual:
http://globalimageserver.com/fetchDocument.aspx?id=01091171-3bac-4cb9-a0a8-a11aac3bd668

Usually, the instructions for lighting water heater are on side of tank, and located at gas control.
If you add a comment and describe gas control in detail, and add if model has piezo igniter, I might be able to provide specific instructions for that gas valve.
Also include if wires on bottom of gas control go to a switch located on combustion door.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/IMG_9146-gas-control-thermo.jpg

Make sure basement has plenty of fresh air to support combustion.
Clean combustion parts and air intake.
Check that thermocouple sits inside pilot flame.
If no gas comes out of gas control when trying to light water heater, then check that gas valve handle is parallel with gas line. Gas pressure might be low. Gas might have air in line.
If pilot lights but will not stay lit, then thermocouple might be bad.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/How-to-replace-thermocouple.pdf

Many factors can contribute to water heater not lighting or staying lit.
Get started, and then add a comment with steps taken so far, and what you observe for more help. I will be here most of the evening. Aug 1, 2011.

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most likely a problem with the thermo couple

Sounds like dirty or faulty thermocouple may be cause. Try cleaning end that sits above flame with steel wool, as well as remove fitting at valve and give the end of it a cleaning with steel wool as well. I like to use fine steel wool for that. Spray some electrical cleaner, or similar in where thermocouple is attached to valve, and blow it out as well if you have compressed air. Make sure no sharp kinks in tubing as well. If that doesn't do it, I'd replace thermocouple. I am assuming that the pilot has a good flame under thermocouple to start with.

If it is gas, check if the gas valve is open and the pilot light is on. If it is electric, check the thermostat on the electrorod, it should be around 120 degree. Good luck!

You are sure it is LEAKING pater at all those 4 locations-- correct?
None of the water is from condensation, right?

If you have had pressure water leaks for many years-- then likely a lot of damage has been done to the insulation-- and the sheet metal outer liner?
Does the sheet metal 'skin' (outside jacket get real warm?-- if so, you are loosing a lot of energy -- Probably time to invest in a new, better insulated, and more efficient combustion burner-
and this time, Make sure there are NO LEAKS, when the installation is done!
Mack B

the combustion shut off device is usually the gas shut off valve.
follow the gas flex connected to the water heater gas controll, to the wall, you should find the valve located somewhere near the wall.