I need to purchase a Zing Ear ZE-268S6 fan motor switch. Home dopot. Lowe's, and Lamps Plus, do not have the correct switches. Lamps Plus has no fan or lamp parts at all. Please tell me where in Orange County, CA I can find this switch so I may repair my fan.

You can buy it from this website:
https://www.ceilingfanswitch.com/product/zing-ear-ze-301d-lampholder/

That depends on whether the problem is a bad high-speed contact in the switch or an open winding in the motor. It's more likely to be a switch problem. In the best case, you can spray contact cleaner into the switch and it will work. Otherwise, you may have to replace it.

If you are really handy, you can take the switch apart (you may have to drill out a couple of rivets), polish the contacts, then put it together with some small screws and nuts - probably #2 size. If you do this I strongly recommend using a thread locking compound on the screws so the switch doesn't fall apart while the fan is running. If you can find replacement rivets in that size, that's a better way to go. Some fan switches are glued together or snap together; you'll have to examine yours to see what you have.

1. Open the switch housing of the fan. This is usually achieved either by removing two screws on the bottom cap of the switch housing, or three screws on the side. Remove the pullchain assembly by unscrewing the brass finial on the outside of the switch housing.

2. Make careful note of which wires attach where to the pullchain. The chain itself will be marked L-1-2-3 or A-B-C-D or similar, the wires will customarily be of different colors, but if not, mark both the wires and pullchain if necessary. MAKE CAREFUL NOTE OF WHICH WIRES ATTACH WHERE. Every fan is different and if you do not make note there will likely be a complicated guessing game. I cannot stress this step enough. Make careful note of which wires attach where to the pullchain. For example:

Black - L, Grey - 1, Brown - 2, Purple - 3.

Some fans may use only two or three wires, some may have a pullchain with two layers and five or more wires. Regardless, make careful note of which wires attach where.

3. Remove the wires from the pullchain. In some cases they may be attached via wire nuts, in which case, remove the wire nuts. However in most fans the wires are inserted directly into the pullchain. Don't make the mistake of cutting them, they can be removed completely by inserting a very small flathead screwdriver into the slot next to each wire. You will notice the ends of the wires are soldered, this is so they will attach to the pullchain.

4. Determine the correct replacement pullchain. This is the tricky part. Many pullchains look alike but in fact switch differently. There are a few factors, first of all, how many speeds does the fan have as controlled by the pullchain? Second of all, how many wires are used to connect the pullchain? These will determine maybe 75% of replacement pullchains. Here are some examples:

- If the fan has three speeds and the pullchain has four wires, it is most commonly a L-1-2-3 pullchain. This is a single pole triple throw switch with an off position. It connects the power from L to 1, 2, or 3 respectively, one for each speed.

- If the fan has three speeds and the pullchain has three wires, it is an L-1-2-1+2 pullchain. This is a single pole double throw switch with an off position and a "both" position. That is to say, in connects power from L to 1 or 2 respectively, and on the third position connects to both. This is the same switch used in many lamps to switch on one bulb (or set of bulbs), the other, or both.

- If the fan has two speeds and the pullchain has three wires, it is most commonly a L-1-2 pullchain. This is a single pole double throw switch with an off position. It connects the power from L to 1 or 2 respectively.

- If the fan has three speeds and the pullchain has more than four wires, there are a handful of different pullchain possibilities however most hardware stores stock the most common replacement. This would customarily be a double pole switch with two layers of wires attaching.

The replacements mentioned above are the most common examples . . . but as I said, there are other switches that may appear identical (for example three speed fan, four wires, but it's NOT the first switch I mentioned). In most cases I would first try the replacement mentioned above. These are the switches that your local hardware store should stock. If the fan does not work with the likely replacement, does not work on all speeds, spins too fast, too slow, etc . . . and you are sure you properly noted which wire connected where on the old pullchain and wired the replacement correctly . . . then it appears your fan is in the 25% that uses a non-standard switch. There are three ways to determine the correct replacement switch:

- Contact the manufacturer. If they are still in business they can theoretically send you the correct replacement switch. If they are no longer in business, contact someone on our forums or other ceiling fan experts, we/they may be aware of the correct replacement for your particular model

- If you can still switch speeds on the old pullchain, use an ohm-meter to check for continuity between the various wires on the various positions. In most cases the important relationships are between L and the various other positions, for example a three speed four wire switch might be L-1-2+3-3. This means in the first position L connects to 1, in the second position L to 2 and 3, in the third position L to 3, fourth position off.

- If you can not operate the switch, you can open up it's plastic casing, either to operate the switch by hand, or to observe the metal bands inside. Some websites that sell replacement switches offer diagrams of the metal bands, by matching your switch up to the diagram you can determine the correct replacement.

5. Ok, you've determined and obtained the correct replacement switch.Seeing as you made careful note of which wires connect to where on the old switch, reconnect the wires in the same manner to the replacement switch. If your old switch did not require the tips of the wires be soldered you may need to do so in order to properly attach them to the pullchain.

6. Reattach the pullchain to the switch housing and replace the finial. Replace the switch housing cap with the two or three screws.

Additional Notes:

I. Fan lights where the pullchain is simply on/off use a two wire pullchain. This pullchain is a very standard on/off switch and it is simply connected to the two wires to which the old pullchain was connected. The wires can be reversed and it will still work. Lights where you can select one bulb, the other bulb, or both use the pullchain mentioned with that example above.

II. Some fans do not use the pullchain to control speeds, but instead have a dial or other control on the fan for speed selection. The pullchain is used to turn the fan off and on, and in some cases also to reverse the fan, select between the high speed and the various low speeds derived from the speed control, or also control the light. In these various examples:

- When the pullchain only switches the fan on and off, it most likely has only two wires and is equivalent to the light kit pullchain mentioned above. It is a basic on/off switch

- When the pullchain reverses the fan or switches the speed control in and out of the circuit, it is most likely the three wire two speed pullchain mentioned above. It is a L-1-2 switch. There are some exceptions such as certain model Fasco fans.

- When the pullchain controls both the fan and light, it is the three wire three speed pullchain mentioned above. It is a L-1-2-1+2 switch.

III. If for whatever reason you do not know which wires connect to which locations on the pullchain, you may yet have some options. For starters, black is almost always L. Some other common color combinations:

For many four wire pullchains:

L - Black, 1 - Grey, 2 - Brown, 3 - Purple
L - Orange, 1 - Black, 2 - Yellow, 3 - Purple
L - Black, 1 - Grey, 2 - Brown, 3 - Green
L - Grey, 1 - Yellow, 2 - Purple, 3 - Black
L - White, 1- Black, 2 - Blue, 3 - Yellow


For many three wire pullchains:

L - Black, 1 - Blue, 2 - Red

Hi,

I found out that mostly they are connected with fastons. You can get them at hardware or auto parts stores.
From what I've heard Zing Ear switches are a bear when it comes to taking apart or taking off wires.

Good luck.

I hope this helps. If it does, I would appreciate a vote. Thanks,

Handie Andie

ORDER THE SWITCH ASSEMBLY AT WWW.KENSELECTRONICS.COM

I have the same issue. I bought a ZING EAR dimmer but it won't fit in the space allowed by the pole the lamp is made from.

The switch is simple, the positions are: Off/On/Half.

The switch uses a diode to provide half voltage to the lamp. I have two solutions and I'm not sure which I'll use yet. First, I can use the dimmer but I'll have to get a 500K pot with a switch to fit in the hole. I'll attach wires to connect to the PCB of the dimmer. In essence, I'll remote mount the 500K pot.

The second solution is to get a rotary switch like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Lamp-parts-3-way-2-circuit-rotary-switch-5-8-TR-302-/380282854100?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item588a9fdad4

and use the diode salvaged from the original lamp switch. In my switch the diode is still good.

I know this sounds awfully complicated, but it's really not.
Randy.
Email me and I can give better details if you like.
[email protected]

If the product did not come with a manual control on it then yes you will have to use the remote. However, if the replacement remote will cost nearly as much as the ceiling fan itself you could simply purchase a new fan.

You'll need to open up the top motor unit, check the switch for the suction and test the fan itself. My model 1672 ran for many years, but recently it started to smell burnt when the fan was on. When I opened it up, you could see the fan spitting out sparks. I suspect the brushes are gone.

Here are instructions for opening up the motor unit. Don't pry up on the very top disk, which is an air outlet. It will only break off and won't allow access to anything. If you do break it off, drill holes through the four posts and use stainless steel screws to re-attach the disk to the plastic posts it sits on.

Now, beneath the air outlet is the rest of the motor unit. The motor unit consists of three pieces. The bottom piece is the lid to the waste water receptacle. It is concave pointing down (lid shaped). The top piece is the domed lid for the motor unit. The middle piece is a flat plate between the other two pieces. The top of the flat plate (inside the unit) has mountings for the suction fan and the pump.

The flat plate is bolted to the bottom piece and the top piece (domed lid) is simply snapped down to the flat plate. If you take a flashlight and look inside the area where the AC cord is stored, you can see that the domed lid is a distinct piece from the flat plate. The model 1672 and 1680 (or 1680-3 if you wish) are nearly identilcal.

To access the internal parts in the motor unit, you cannot pry between bottom piece and the the flat plate because they are bolted together. But you can remove the top domed lid. To remove the domed lid, position the motor unit in front of you with the switches at 9 o-clock. Three snap-downs which attach the domed lid to the flat plate are at 1 o'clock, 2:30, and 7 o'clock. Wedge a flat bladed screwdriver or pocketknife between the edge of the domed lid and the flat plate at those locations and the lever the domed lid out and then up. The domed lid will separate from the bolted-together flat plate and bottom piece.

Wiring from the switches remain attached to to the electrical components. You will see that the AC cord has white, black, and green wires. The green ground wire connects to the fan ground at the 9 o'clock position. The white power connects to upper connector on the pump and also to the fan at the 7:30 position. Black feeds both switches on model 1672 and then a black wire runs from the correct switch to the bottom connector on the pump or to the connector on the fan at the 1:30 position.

If you need to replace the fan, shop around carefully. The pump, for example, can be found for $30 plus shipping, but some will want to charge you $80.

You will need to disassemble the top motor unit and try putting power directly to the pump. The switch may be bad, the connections may be dislodged, or you may need to replace the pump. I am reading your question and I assume that you cannot hear the pump kick on (low thrumming sound).

Here is how to disassemble the motor unit. Don't pry up on the very top disk, which is an air outlet. It will only break off and won't allow access to anything. If you do break it off, drill holes through the four posts and use stainless steel screws to re-attach the disk to the plastic posts it sits on.

Now, beneath the air outlet is the rest of the motor unit. The motor unit consists of three pieces. The bottom piece is the lid to the waste water receptacle. It is concave pointing down (lid shaped). The top piece is the domed lid for the motor unit. The middle piece is a flat plate between the other two pieces. The top of the flat plate (inside the unit) has mountings for the suction fan and the pump.

The flat plate is bolted to the bottom piece and the top piece (domed lid) is simply snapped down to the flat plate. If you take a flashlight and look inside the area where the AC cord is stored, you can see that the domed lid is a distinct piece from the flat plate. The model 1672 and 1680 (or 1680-3 if you wish) are nearly identilcal.

To access the internal parts in the motor unit, you cannot pry between bottom piece and the the flat plate because they are bolted together. But you can remove the top domed lid. To remove the domed lid, position the motor unit in front of you with the switches at 9 o-clock. Three snap-downs which attach the domed lid to the flat plate are at 1 o'clock, 2:30, and 7 o'clock. Wedge a flat bladed screwdriver or pocketknife between the edge of the domed lid and the flat plate at those locations and the lever the domed lid out and then up. The domed lid will separate from the bolted-together flat plate and bottom piece.

Wiring from the switches remain attached to to the electrical components. You will see that the AC cord has white, black, and green wires. The green ground wire connects to the fan ground at the 9 o'clock position. The white power connects to upper connector on the pump and also to the fan at the 7:30 position. Black feeds both switches on model 1672 and then a black wire runs from the correct switch to the bottom connector on the pump or to the connector on the fan at the 1:30 position.

If you need to replace the pump or the fan, shop around carefully. The pump, for example, can be found for $30 plus shipping, but some will want to charge you $80.

Here is how to disassemble the top motor unit. Don't pry up on the very top disk, which is an air outlet. It will only break off and won't allow access to anything. If you do break it off, drill holes through the four posts and use stainless steel screws to re-attach the disk to the plastic posts it sits on.

Now, beneath the air outlet is the rest of the motor unit. The motor unit consists of three pieces. The bottom piece is the lid to the waste water receptacle. It is concave pointing down (lid shaped). The top piece is the domed lid for the motor unit. The middle piece is a flat plate between the other two pieces. The top of the flat plate (inside the unit) has mountings for the suction fan and the pump.

The flat plate is bolted to the bottom piece and the top piece (domed lid) is simply snapped down to the flat plate. If you take a flashlight and look inside the area where the AC cord is stored, you can see that the domed lid is a distinct piece from the flat plate. The model 1672 and 1680 (or 1680-3 if you wish) are nearly identilcal.

To access the internal parts in the motor unit, you cannot pry between bottom piece and the the flat plate because they are bolted together. But you can remove the top domed lid. To remove the domed lid, position the motor unit in front of you with the switches at 9 o-clock. Three snap-downs which attach the domed lid to the flat plate are at 1 o'clock, 2:30, and 7 o'clock. Wedge a flat bladed screwdriver or pocketknife between the edge of the domed lid and the flat plate at those locations and the lever the domed lid out and then up. The domed lid will separate from the bolted-together flat plate and bottom piece.

Wiring from the switches remain attached to to the electrical components. You will see that the AC cord has white, black, and green wires. The green ground wire connects to the fan ground at the 9 o'clock position. The white power connects to upper connector on the pump and also to the fan at the 7:30 position. Black feeds both switches on model 1672 and then a black wire runs from the correct switch to the bottom connector on the pump or to the connector on the fan at the 1:30 position.

Model 1680 has a third switch which feeds power to the floor sweeper. It has its own connection to the green ground and white power and goes through the third switch to connect to black.

If you need to replace the pump or the fan, shop around carefully. The pump, for example, can be found for $30 plus shipping, but some will want to charge you $80.