Rear brake lever doesn't push the brake pads against the rotor. New lines. Bled the brake using pressure, then suction, then using the pedal. Seems to bleed OK, but doesn't work when everything is tightened up. What should I do?

Once you have bled the air from the brake lines,clamp off the front brake hoses carefully.Does the pedal feel better now?
Then the pad /caliper fit is allowing too much play.Is the pedal the same?Then clamp the rear hose and try the pedal.Is it fine with the rear hose clamped?If so we now know the problem is at the rear brakes.One common low pedal rear brake cause is brake shoes that do not fit the drums.Remove the drums and look at the shoes,are they showing contact wear fully or just in the middle of the shoe?Remove a shoe and place it in the drum.Can you rock the shoe against the drum surface?Once drums have been resurfaced,the shoes will not fit fully against the drum allowing the shoe the flex when applying pressure to it and this can easily create a low soft brake pedal. Of course rear brake adjustment must be correct once brake shoe contact is correct.To correct brake shoe contact,have your shoes re arc-ed to fit resurfaced drums or install new drums.Don't overlook brake master cyl /brake pedal push rod adjustment too.

When you bled the system was fluid coming out the bleeder valves?
Where the bleeder valves closed off with the brake pedal fully depressed?
Is the fluid reservoir cap ok?
Is the master cylinder ok?

Your pressure is air.. Try bleeding again then clear the codes with obd code reader.. The thing is that the brakes have nothing to do with the rotors and should have never been bled... Good luck...

Rear disc brake pads offer better performance and are not as affected by moisture like conventional brake shoe style brakes are. Rear disc brakes are similar to front disc brakes. The main difference is that rear disc brake systems must incorporate the emergency brake system. There are two methods widely used for the emergency brake with rear disc systems. The first system is a brake shoe inside the brake disc that is actuated by the emergency brake lever. The second is a screw style actuator inside the brake caliper. When activated the brake pads are forced into the brake disc and held tightly by the emergency brake lever.
READ COMPLETELY BEFORE STARTING
Step 1 - Identify Rear Disc Brake Components
Rear disc brake assembly includes; rear brake disc, rear brake pads, brake caliper mount and a caliper mounting screw. (Note: Some vehicles do not have the rotor mounting screw.)
Step 2 - Removing the Rear Brake Caliper Mount Bolts
To replace rear brake pads and rotors the rear brake caliper needs to be removed. First loosen the rear brake caliper mount bolts and remove them. Turn counter clockwise.
Step 3 - Lift Rear Brake Caliper from The Caliper Mount
After the caliper mount bolts have been removed, gently lift the brake caliper from the caliper mount. Inspect the caliper slides; they should move freely in the caliper mount. Remove rear brake pads and hardware.

Step 4 - Removing Caliper Mount Bolts
With a socket wrench or other appropriate removal tool, loosen the rear brake caliper mounting bolts. Remove bolts and lift the caliper mount and remove it from the vehicle. Remove the retaining screw from the disc mounting hole. Tap the rotor gently to release any rust that has accumulated between the rotor and bearing hub. Lift brake rotor from wheel hub holding on tightly, using both hands. You do not want to drop the rotor.

Step 5 - Removing Rear Brake Rotor
Remove the retaining screw from the disc mounting hole, tap the rotor gently to release any rust that has accumulated between the rotor and bearing hub. Lift brake rotor from wheel hub, hold on using both hands and do not drop.

Step 6 - Install New Brake Rotor
Check the new rotor against the old brake rotor to make sure they are the same size. Clean the mating surface on the wheel hub before the new brake rotor is installed. Reinstall rotor retainer screw.
Step 7 - Reset Rear Brake Caliper
Before new brake pads can be installed, the rear brake caliper must be reset. The reset tool winds the piston back into position so the new brake pads will fit. This style of brake caliper will not compress with a clamp tool; it can only be reset with the proper reset tool.
Step 8 - Reinstall Rear Caliper Mount and Install New Rear Brake Pads
After the caliper has been reset, reinstall caliper mounting bolts and make sure the bolts are tight. Then match up the old brake pads to the new brake pads. They should be exactly the same except, of course; the old ones will be worn out. Check the new brake pads for proper fit and install any brake hardware that is required.
Step 9 - Remount Rear Brake Caliper
Reinstall the brake caliper, align brake pad hardware and reinstall caliper mounting bolts. (Note: align the rear peg of the brake pad to the groove in the caliper piston.) Recheck and retighten all caliper and caliper mount bolts. Bleed brake system to relieve any air in the system. Before driving the vehicle, push the brake pedal down and let it up slowly. This operation forces the brake pads to travel to the brake rotors. DO NOT DRIVE VEHICLE until proper brake pedal operation resumes. When test driving vehicle listen for any unusual noises during the operation of the brakes.
WARNING! Always have the vehicle under inspection on level ground, in park with the emergency brake on. Always wear protective eyewear, gloves and necessary clothing before inspection or work begins. Never crank an engine over when anyone is near the battery or engine. Always have an operational fire extinguisher close by, obey all first aid instructions in the event of an injury. Never stand in front or behind a vehicle when cranked over or running. When engine is cranked over keep hands and clothing away from rotating components. Never move a car without proper brake pedal operation.

So long as the brake booster is working, test it by turning on the engine, press the brake pedal all the way down, then shut off engine keeping your foot on the brake pedal, if the pedal comes up slightly pushing against your foot then the booster IS working.

Did you BLEED the brakes??????

No, but could be pad knock back which can be caused by run out of the rotors. This can happen if your pads have worn down too far in the past. I'd advise you to have the rotors ground (on the car) and new pads fitted. The fronts are critical but have the rears checked for run out too. Sometimes new seals in the calipers can help hold the pads against the rotors.This will improve the loss of pedal condition.

the gears are sticking? is the shifter just really tight and hard to move from one gear to the next, or even just wiggle around in neutral? if so, you may need new bushings for it. which are not very expensive. IF the shifter wiggles around easily in neutral, but hangs in a gear when you press the clutch in all the way, you could need a clutch, OR hopefully you can just try bleeding the clutch line. at the master cylinder on the transmission. the breaks.... do you have to push the pedal down really hard, or really soft and far? if you're putting a lot of pressure on the pedal but you don't have to push the brake pedal all the way to the floor, that would indicate to me that your pads and rotors are glazed over. you should replace the rotors, pads and have the calipers checked, and have the brakes bled. if you've got to push the pedal all the way to the floor, there's a good chance all you'll need is to have the brakes bled.

You may have a leak in the booster or master cylinder. You can put a pressure tester on the system to test for leaks. It does sound like you have an air leak.
You can try to bleed the master cylinder, then slave cylinder, then brake lines.

Doesn't sound like the brake lines were bled properly. Many times after pad and rotor installation if the lines are bled correctly you will have to pump them initially after the repair for a couple of minutes until the pressure is built back up. Also check the master cylinder and make sure fluid level is ok.

You'll need a metric wrench set, ratchet, 8mm Allen bit, torque wrench, 17mm socket (for the lugs), and likely a breaker bar, a large screwdriver and a rubber mallet.

Remove the wheel first. Then look at the caliper - it's made of two pieces bolted together. At the top and bottom, see those black accordion-looking boots? On the backside of those are two bolts that must be removed. Once they're off, you can pry the center section of the caliper (which holds the pads) off, levering the screwdriver against the carrier. Don't let it hang by the e-brake cable or fluid line - hang it with a wire hanger, bungee cord, or let it sit on something.

Then, the remaining part of the caliper that is still bolted up (called the carrier) has to be removed. For this, you'll need to remove two bolts on the rear side that bolt it to the hub. To take them out, you need an 8mm male Allen bit. Once they're out, the carrier comes off, and the rotor will come right off (you may have to hit it with a rubber mallet).

Be sure to replace your pads when you replace the rotors though - don't reuse old pads with new rotors. To change the rear pads, just pull them off the caliper. You'll have to borrow, buy, or rent a piston retracting tool to get the caliper piston back in far enough to allow a new set of pads to seat on either side of the rotor. The front calipers can be compressed with a C-clamp, but the rears are a screw-in type that require a screw-in tool (for lack of a better term). Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap under the hood so that the piston can be screwed back in without having to fight the pressure from the fluid in the lines. Screw the piston back in, seat the new pads (put some anti-squeal grease on the back sides of them), and after the new rotor is on and the carrier is bolted back up, load the caliper with the new pads and remount it to the carrier. Tighten the brake fluid cap now, before pushing the brake pedal down.

Last step is to bolt your wheel back on - use a torque wrench and torque to 90 ft-lbs using a skip-one method to ensure even torque across the face of the hub. Pump up the brake pedal several times to be sure you have pedal pressure that you can rely on.

Bed the pads in by getting the car up around 30mph and stopping it with solid, firm, consistent force on the pedal - don't push the pedal farther toward the floor the slower you go - keep the pedal pressure even until you stop. Do this five or six times and you should be good to go.