Hi, Anonymous if you are experiencing excessive oil coming out of the crankcase breather or air filter please drain all engine oil and replace half of the same oil that comes out. Many riders are overfilling their oil system because they do not know how to properly read their oil sight glass or dipstick. The following procedure works on nearly all 4 stroke engines but to be on the safe side you should refer to your owners manual. Use your center stand if you have one.
1. Bring the engine up to operating temperature or let idle for 5 minutes.
2. Turn off your engine and let it sit for 2 minutes, this will allow the oil from the top end to drain to the bottom.
3. Hold your bike straight up or on the center stand and wait 2 minutes for the oil in the bottom of the engine to be level in the sight glass or on the dipstick.
4. Your oil level should be between the top full mark and the bottom add oil mark.
5. Never overfill your oil system it will cause problems:
a. oil leaking out of exhaust pipes.
b. oil leaking out of breather pipe/hose.
c. oil carryover into the air cleaner.
6. Your oil site glass must "NEVER" be completely full or empty drain or add oil as necessary.
7. Your oil dipstick must "NEVER" be over the full mark and should never be below the add mark drain or add oil as needed.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.laverdaforum.com/forum/index.php?topic=84521.0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwKIuLQGQHg https://www.ebay.ie/b/Laverda-Motorcycle-Manuals-and-Literature/184632/bn_2324766 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Laverda-1000-RGS-owners-manual-1982-/292655794163
Be sure you are using the correct weight of engine oil. Too heavy a viscosity will cause the problem you mention. In addition, it could be the clutch cable sticking rather than the plates. Have you lubricated that cable lately? Does anyone even do that any more?
Did your bike quit whilst it was running, or is the problem that it won't turn over on the starter when you try to start it?Position 1 of the ignition switch should allow the starter to be operated and the engine to fire up. Position 2 is for parking lights only. The ignition switch can suffer poor internal contacts with age. It may have been replaced with the wrong type of switch if you say it turns over in position 2. Have you checked the fuses? If they are OK, try bypassing the ignition switch completely.If you are running the original ignition, the control box under the tank can fail. Check that there is a spark on all three plugs. THEY ALL MUST BE KEPT EARTHED when turning the engine over to avoid destroying the ignition module.
The most common complaints are the poor gas mileage, weak electric starter, not as fast off the line as the Japanese bikes, slower top end speed, top heavy and not a good commuter bike. Additionally, dealers are few and far between. Install new spark plugs, clean the air filter, clean or at least drain the carbs to remove any water in the float bowls. Do a compression check to see if the valves need to be re-seated.
Jo - you need to explain what problems you are having!! The 1980 model had a cable operated mechanism. Vital that the clutch cable is smoothly routed with bends as big a radius as possible. Lubrication of clutch lever pivot and cable is vital too. Handlebar adjuster should be used to leave a small amount of slack. If the problem is getting the clutch to free off, then if the bike has been standing for a long time the plates can stick together. Have an answer for that...
Hi, remove the caliper from the rotor, leaving the brake line conected, now lift the caliper higher than the master cylinder and re bleed the system with it in the higher position, this will force the air out up hill rather than the fluid gravity feeding when you bleed it in the normal position, poor master cylinders on the rear brake, make sure your brake pedal returns fully check it isnt sticking and has some free play
All late 60's and 70's Laverda 750 twins are negative earth. Buy the 'Green Book' ISBN-13: 978-0-9796891-0-9 - do not pay more than the cover price inc post. For parts try Slaters or Motal in the UK. I buy from Laverda Paradies in Germany, does what it says on the tin - every time. http://www.laverda-paradies.de For info try http://www.laverdamania.net/menugb.htm and http://www.iloc.co.uk/
Laverda specialists such as Wolfgang Haerter; OCT or Andy Wagner/Laverda Paradies can help. Some enterprising owners have replaced the electronic guts with an aftermarket unit whilst retaining the original housing. There are a couple of possible causes to consider - duff electronic revcounter or aftermarket (DMC) electronic ignition fitted which needs a filter fitting to the revcounter wiring - again, the latter is obtainable from Laverda specialists. Check out Laverda forums such as www.laverdapedia.com/forum for more info (use the search facility)