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Just had the motor rebuilt and it want get into or out of gear easy, like the clutch is slipping, can you help please with what may be causing it
Suzuki eiger 400 atv
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Did you put in a rebuilt clutch or a brand new one?
Shudder is usually weak clutch disc torsion springs.
Rebuilt discs may have weak torsion springs on the clutch disc while new clutch disc torsion springs should be "new" and should not cause clutch shudder.
One other cause can be broken or damaged motor mounts.
There could be a problem in the valve body of the transmission, preventing fluid to flow where it needs to be and causing the clutch plates to be slipping. The other thing could be a pressure problem, with same results of the clutch plates slipping. Get your transmission rebuilt to resolve the problem.
the play in the shaft that your flywheel is causing your issue-you need to find the reason for that 1/2 inch wobble, although the most obvious would probably be a rear main bearing.or a bent (?) crankshaft...ask your rebuilder to double check the bendix gear operation on the starter, but it sounds like your problems are not the starter based on your description.
The ecm would not cause this, it sounds like someone did a poor rebuild, if the engining is reving and the car doesnt what to go then the clutches may be bad, a mass are flow would not cause a trany to go bad, the flashing hold light is a problem but should not be happening after the trany was just rebuilt, something is not right here, the trany was just rebuilt and now the hold light flashes and the motor rev going into 2nd gear, that trany has problems a bad ecm wouuldnt cause this slipping reving problem you are having , i would have a trany shop check to see if that trany was really rebuit.
If you have a motor with the no.1313314 and the motor runs ,but the blade spindel does not turn try removing the backcover plate . With this removed you might find that the toothed gear belt has broken. If this ,in fact, is the problem the belt is a Bando syncro,link 100xl.
Hope this rectifies your problem as I am waiting for a new belt myself.
That symptom indicates internal seal wear and fluid bypass. In "slipping out of gear" what is actually happening is that the internal clutches are slipping due to pressure loss. When they slip, they burn and therefore need replacement. Sometimes if it hasn't been doing that very long, a fluid change and adding lucas sealer and conditioner can help extend it's life a bit but in the end it really needs to be rebuilt. There is no quick, easy, permanent solution other than that.
no the problem is the driver ,riding the clutch and resting the foot on it whilst driving ,causing excessive wear and tear ,i would respectfully suggest you buy a vehicle with automatic transmission
for motors clutch you replace the pads and springs
and for the brake you replace the pads unless disc is no longer smooth/pads missing then replace disc too
slipper clutch adjustment, hold the vehicle stationary and turn the spur gear by hand, it should turn if not then loosen nut on slipper, if too easy then tighten...............drive to fine tune......it should slip if stopped at full throttle to prevent spur/clutch gear damage
Sounds like a sychro problem when you rebuilt. I have always found with my gearbox, even when warm it is easy to beat the sychros so i make slower changes. Unless you fix the sychro rings the problem will only get worse
There will be some drag with it in gear and the clutch disengaged. The big test.. does it try to creep along when idling in 1st? The wheel should be free enough to turn by hand sorta, but there should be resistance. Once the oil is warm the drag will decrease significantly. When adjusting the clutch be sure to have the proper free lever. If you have it too tight it's going to start slipping, and hose the plates. You should be able to slip a penny between the handle and the perch at the gap crossed by the cable, before the clutch starts to open (the lever moves on the motor)
Wat lube are you running in the case? some goopey slop will cause a significant drag. When the clutch is in you are still turning all the gears in the transmission, that is a load of drag! Have you recently rebuilt clutch? Check for notches in the basket dragging on the plates.
Plates and liners out of order will really drag bad. Have you had the plates out of the basket?
When it's idling and you put it into gear, does it kill the engine?
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