THE BATTERY I CHARGED BUT I GET NO POWER TO LIGHTS OR STARTER WHEN I TURN ON THE KEY, NO ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP HUM, NO NEUTRAL LIGHT ETC....

A few questions so I can help. Is this a Suzuki motorbike or a car? What EXACTLY does it do when you turn the key? How did you 'check for electric'? A vehicle battery should have between 12.6volts to 13.2 volts.
When you turn a starter motor over it needs a large amount of volts to power it, anything under 10 volts and it will struggle. Even a fully charged battery can struggle to turn a starter motor if it is old or faulty.
Try this. First look at the battery and check the terminals are clean and tight. Sometimes it can be as easy as that. Turn the key and look and listen carefully. Try to start the engine. Do you get absolutely nothing and no dash lights? Do you get dash lights which go off when you start the bike but you only get a quiet 'Click'? Do you get dash lights which go off and then a louder 'Clunk'? Does the engine turn over but it's very slow and lazy?
Absolutely nothing suggests a dead or totally flat battery and a lazy, slow starter is a low charge in the battery. A Quiet click could be the Starter Relay and a louder 'Clunk' could be the starter solenoid or the starter itself.
Use the comment button below with more information and i'll try to help more.

Year/make/model??? If no power to starter, possible relay/wiring/neutral safety switch. Will the vehicle start in the neutral gear selection? Without vehicle info, hard to offer advice

You have many problems.
1. For the fuel pump
i. Check fuel pump fuse in fuse panel.
ii. Turn on the ignition key to start position without engine cranking.
iii. Listen at the same time for 2 seconds if you can hear the sound of the fuel pump near the fill fuel neck (remove the fuel cap).
iiii. At the fuel pump relay place, a test light back probes the green wire or trigger wire with a test light. It is activated by the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) for 2 seconds (priming the fuel system). /When you start the engine, that same wire will receive a + signal but steady. Then you should find your fuel pump problem. (could be the fuel pump itself not working).
If you need to change the fuel pump.
You have to remove the fuel tank. When the fuel tank is halfway down (before removing the fuel pump) test the + signal at the tank (could be a wires problems)

2. The neutral light problem belongs to the neutral switch system (PRNDL) attach to transmission.
3. Starter Problem
i. Could be rusted positive and negative connections at the battery (Voltage drop in the + battery terminal should not be more than 500mv.
if more remove terminal and clean it. Same thing at the starter motor's end (Same thing with the ground at the Battery to the engine. if OK then the starter motor itself is the defect.

Hope it helps.

yes that hum is fuel pump fuses are easy get a 12 volt tester and most new fuses have 2 tabs on top check both sides of fuse should light up tester if not fuse is probably blown pull starter and try to test with jumper cables or take to Canadian tire they will test for free i9t sounds like starter is shorting system

could be the starter motor solenoid is stuck the click can be the the ignition relay and the hum is the fuel pump. sometimes works if you hit the solenoid with the a hammer then try to start the engine if this work then change the starter motor or have it fixed.

something on in your car is sucking the juice,a door not closed completely or inside lights left on or headlights or parking lights dome lights,ignition not completely shut off,hood light trunk light etc check them all,if car turns over when charged but wont start it could be your fuel pump or broken timing belt

The humming would be the fuel pump coming on. It should only hum for a few seconds, then shut off.
Your problem is with the start circuit from the battery to the starter, or from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. Check the connections at the starter (the big cable) for tightness.
Is the battery charged up enough to turn the engine over? Check by turning headlights on and observe while someone turns key to crank. If they dim a LOT, then either battery is too low, or the starter is bad and needs removing for testing. If brightness doesn't change, then the circuit from ignition switch to starter solenoid is likely not working. Check for 12 volts at the small wire to starter solenoid with key in cranking position. If you have power there, the solenoid may be bad. Remove starter for testing. If no power at solenoid in starting position, then either the ignition switch is bad or the neutral safety switch might be the problem, or the wiring from the switch to the starter solenoid is not passing current.
Good luck.

You will have to check, at the starter, for power to the SMALL wire on the starter solenoid (which is on the starter) when turning the ignition switch to start.
If there is power to this wire ( usually purple ) and power at the LARGE cable ( from the battery ) at the starter end.....you need a starter.

If you do not have power at the small wire at the solenoid with the key in start position and battery power is OK.....check the safety neutral switch.Moving the shifter around a little can sometimes allow the car to start if the neutral switch is worn.

A new battery does not always mean a fully charged battery.
Try a boost from another car before testing the starter for power.

The battery cables need to be clean and tight....and check the ground to the engine as well.

Everything else may work OK with bad connections,they don't use the power the starter needs to turn the engine over.

I would guess starter fuse first, then starter. When you turn key, if you don't hear a click, you should focus your attention on the fuse first and then the starter. If you hear a click, then most likely (80%) its the starter solenoid. try to start the car in neutral to rule out the neutral safety switch...good luck

If you want to trick the soleniod you can turn the key switch on and touch the two contacts with a screw driver are a pair of insulated pliers