Why did my engine stop accelerating just stay at idle

Yes! RPM, (revolutions per minute), is engine speed NOT road speed, (kmph, mph). RPM's will go up and down as you change gear while your cars actual speed and acceleration stays the same. Idle is usually somewhere around 1000RPM, (10 on the needle).

Step One: How to Prepare Your Vehicle

• Have the fuel tank between 30 and 70 percent full. Some systems, especially the EVAP system, need to have a specific level of fuel in order for the tests to be trusted. If the fuel tank is near empty or completely full, many of the basic tests will not run at all.
• The vehicle must also have a good alternator and a strong battery. If you have to occasionally jump-start your vehicle, all of the memory from the powertrain control module (PCM) is erased, which includes the data that accurately tracks the results from various stages of the Drive Cycle. Also, if the battery is weak or undercharged, some of the most important tests will never run.
• The vehicle must sit overnight, or for at least eight hours, in an environment that is less than 90° F. The engine temperature needs to match the air temperature in order to establish an accurate baseline for the testing. If the outside temperature is over 90° F, the fuel is too volatile and the EVAP system won't even try to run its tests, though some of the other emissions systems may run their tests.
• The keys must be out of the ignition and all of the doors must be closed while the vehicle sits over night because many of the onboard computers "boot up" when the keys are in the ignition. Also, many of the onboard computers still run until all of the doors are closed after the vehicle is shut off and the keys are removed.

Step Two: The Cold Start

• Start the vehicle and let it idle for two to three minutes in Park or Neutral. While it is idling, turn on the head lights, heater/defroster, and rear defroster for a three to five minute warm-up phase. Let the idle speed settle down to near the normal speed.
• Next, put the vehicle in gear and drive through city streets at about 25 mph. Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times before slowing down to stop. Don't roll through the stop; be sure the car is really stopped, just like you learned in driving school. Accelerate from each stop in a normal fashion-not overly conservative, but not like you are competing in a drag race either.

Step Three: A Short Freeway Trip

• After the vehicle has been cold started and driven for a few miles on city streets, the next step is to take it on a short freeway trip.
• Enter the freeway on-ramp and allow enough room with respect to other vehicles so that you can do a 1/2 to 3/4 throttle acceleration up to freeway speed.
• When you have accelerated up to around 60 mph and have safely merged into the flow of traffic, stay in the slow lane and maintain a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for a minimum of five miles. Please use the cruise control to help you maintain speed.
• Find a nice, long off ramp to exit from the freeway. As you exit, take your foot off of the accelerator and let the vehicle coast down until it stops under its own power as you complete your exit from the freeway. Do not use the foot brake and do not shift gears until the very end of this "coast down" phase.

• Step Four: More City Driving
  • After you have completed the freeway trip, drive through the city streets for a repeat of the second part of Step Two.
  • Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times and then maintain a city speed of 25 mph before slowing down to stop. Again, don't roll through the stop and make sure to accelerate normally.
  • Pull in to a parking place and let the engine idle for one to two minutes and then shut it off.
  Step Five: Have your Readiness Monitors Checked and Verified
  
  • Drive your vehicle to your regular shop and have them re-check your readiness monitors, present codes, and pending codes. They should do this as a courtesy and for free.
  • If all of your monitors are "ready" and there are no present or pending codes, then your vehicle has been properly repaired and is ready for an emissions inspection and for normal driving.
  
  

Take extra caution while performing dirve cycles on public roadways. Drive cycles can be difficult to follow under normal driving conditions. Begin by: - Start the engine. Idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defroster on. - Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. - Hold at a steady speed of 55 mph for three minutes. - Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch. - Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at ¾ throttle. - Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes. - Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking. If all other emissions systems are functioning properly, completing the drive cycle above will set the "readiness flags" required to pass the smog check. It will not hurt to perform the drive cycle 2 or 3 times before the smog test.

How to Perform a Basic Drive Cycle

Step One: How to Prepare Your Vehicle

• Have the fuel tank between 30 and 70 percent full. Some systems, especially the EVAP system, need to have a specific level of fuel in order for the tests to be trusted. If the fuel tank is near empty or completely full, many of the basic tests will not run at all.
• The vehicle must also have a good alternator and a strong battery. If you have to occasionally jump-start your vehicle, all of the memory from the powertrain control module (PCM) is erased, which includes the data that accurately tracks the results from various stages of the Drive Cycle. Also, if the battery is weak or undercharged, some of the most important tests will never run.
• The vehicle must sit overnight, or for at least eight hours, in an environment that is less than 90° F. The engine temperature needs to match the air temperature in order to establish an accurate baseline for the testing. If the outside temperature is over 90° F, the fuel is too volatile and the EVAP system won't even try to run its tests, though some of the other emissions systems may run their tests.
• The keys must be out of the ignition and all of the doors must be closed while the vehicle sits over night because many of the onboard computers "boot up" when the keys are in the ignition. Also, many of the onboard computers still run until all of the doors are closed after the vehicle is shut off and the keys are removed.

Step Two: The Cold Start

• Start the vehicle and let it idle for two to three minutes in Park or Neutral. While it is idling, turn on the head lights, heater/defroster, and rear defroster for a three to five minute warm-up phase. Let the idle speed settle down to near the normal speed.
• Next, put the vehicle in gear and drive through city streets at about 25 mph. Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times before slowing down to stop. Don't roll through the stop; be sure the car is really stopped, just like you learned in driving school. Accelerate from each stop in a normal fashion-not overly conservative, but not like you are competing in a drag race either.

Step Three: A Short Freeway Trip

• After the vehicle has been cold started and driven for a few miles on city streets, the next step is to take it on a short freeway trip.
• Enter the freeway on-ramp and allow enough room with respect to other vehicles so that you can do a 1/2 to 3/4 throttle acceleration up to freeway speed.
• When you have accelerated up to around 60 mph and have safely merged into the flow of traffic, stay in the slow lane and maintain a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for a minimum of five miles. Please use the cruise control to help you maintain speed.
• Find a nice, long off ramp to exit from the freeway. As you exit, take your foot off of the accelerator and let the vehicle coast down until it stops under its own power as you complete your exit from the freeway. Do not use the foot brake and do not shift gears until the very end of this "coast down" phase.

Step Four: More City Driving

• After you have completed the freeway trip, drive through the city streets for a repeat of the second part of Step Two.
• Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times and then maintain a city speed of 25 mph before slowing down to stop. Again, don't roll through the stop and make sure to accelerate normally.
• Pull in to a parking place and let the engine idle for one to two minutes and then shut it off.

Step Five: Wave your Readiness Monitors Checked and Verified

• Drive your vehicle to your regular shop and have them re-check your readiness monitors, present codes, and pending codes. They should do this as a courtesy and for free.
• If all of your monitors are "ready" and there are no present or pending codes, then your vehicle has been properly repaired and is ready for an emissions inspection and for normal driving.
• If your monitors are not ready, please click here for more information.

How to Perform a Basic Drive Cycle

Step One: How to Prepare Your Vehicle

• Have the fuel tank between 30 and 70 percent full. Some systems, especially the EVAP system, need to have a specific level of fuel in order for the tests to be trusted. If the fuel tank is near empty or completely full, many of the basic tests will not run at all.
• The vehicle must also have a good alternator and a strong battery. If you have to occasionally jump-start your vehicle, all of the memory from the powertrain control module (PCM) is erased, which includes the data that accurately tracks the results from various stages of the Drive Cycle. Also, if the battery is weak or undercharged, some of the most important tests will never run.
• The vehicle must sit overnight, or for at least eight hours, in an environment that is less than 90° F. The engine temperature needs to match the air temperature in order to establish an accurate baseline for the testing. If the outside temperature is over 90° F, the fuel is too volatile and the EVAP system won't even try to run its tests, though some of the other emissions systems may run their tests.
• The keys must be out of the ignition and all of the doors must be closed while the vehicle sits over night because many of the onboard computers "boot up" when the keys are in the ignition. Also, many of the onboard computers still run until all of the doors are closed after the vehicle is shut off and the keys are removed.

Step Two: The Cold Start

• Start the vehicle and let it idle for two to three minutes in Park or Neutral. While it is idling, turn on the head lights, heater/defroster, and rear defroster for a three to five minute warm-up phase. Let the idle speed settle down to near the normal speed.
• Next, put the vehicle in gear and drive through city streets at about 25 mph. Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times before slowing down to stop. Don't roll through the stop; be sure the car is really stopped, just like you learned in driving school. Accelerate from each stop in a normal fashion-not overly conservative, but not like you are competing in a drag race either.

Step Three: A Short Freeway Trip

• After the vehicle has been cold started and driven for a few miles on city streets, the next step is to take it on a short freeway trip.
• Enter the freeway on-ramp and allow enough room with respect to other vehicles so that you can do a 1/2 to 3/4 throttle acceleration up to freeway speed.
• When you have accelerated up to around 60 mph and have safely merged into the flow of traffic, stay in the slow lane and maintain a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for a minimum of five miles. Please use the cruise control to help you maintain speed.
• Find a nice, long off ramp to exit from the freeway. As you exit, take your foot off of the accelerator and let the vehicle coast down until it stops under its own power as you complete your exit from the freeway. Do not use the foot brake and do not shift gears until the very end of this "coast down" phase.

Step Four: More City Driving

• After you have completed the freeway trip, drive through the city streets for a repeat of the second part of Step Two.
• Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times and then maintain a city speed of 25 mph before slowing down to stop. Again, don't roll through the stop and make sure to accelerate normally.
• Pull in to a parking place and let the engine idle for one to two minutes and then shut it off.

Step Five: Wave your Readiness Monitors Checked and Verified

• Drive your vehicle to your regular shop and have them re-check your readiness monitors, present codes, and pending codes. They should do this as a courtesy and for free.
• If all of your monitors are "ready" and there are no present or pending codes, then your vehicle has been properly repaired and is ready for an emissions inspection and for normal driving.
• If your monitors are not ready, please click here for more information.

HMM, it has been awhile since ive worked on that toyota motor. Check for vacuum leaks on hoses and the intake manifold. Check egr system for a dirty pintle leaving the egr stuck open. It will cause bad acceleration and idle quality. A properly closed egr cannot be blown through to the opposite port. Check for a clean throttle plate, if it is not, clean it. If it is a fuel injected engine check for bad fuel injector o rings for wear, if they leak they cause fuel burning and idle problems.

Check coolant temp sensor if car runs okay after first start up. If it does not run OK after getting engine warm, probably idle air control valve.

Next time the engine light comes on, get the codes pulled and get back to me

run the fault codes first to check for faulty sensors
what you describe indicates a problem in the exhaust in that when the exhaust gas volume reaches a certain level the sensors are reporting it and the ECM is not able to fix it
have an accredited exhaust shop check the cat converter
for failure and partially blocking the exhaust at speed
if it was a fuel pump you would run into problems long before the speed at which it occurs
AT best it could be an EVAP problem with the vent not working properly but I think that it is exhaust related

I had a similar problem with a K5 Blazer, where the gas pedal had a plastic pivot point in the linkage. After about 60K miles, the pivot developed a burr that locked the gas pedal open and kept the vehicle about 60 MPH. If I kicked the pedal to knock it off the burr, it would then slow down. Try it...