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Pedal, not peddle. First make sure reservoir is full at the brake master cylinder. Then check your brake pads (for disc brakes) and/or brake shoes (for drum brakes). When the pads or shoes are very worn down, you will get a low pedal. If you have disc brakes on the front and drums on the rear wheels, first try just replacing the front brake pads. If you get a good pedal after the front is done, many people tend to let the rear brake shoes go unless they are making noise. These systems are designed to put most of the braking force on the front discs, so the rear shoes do not need changing as often.
take it in for a warranty replacement( you said new car)
the disc was not in new condition when sold to you or was damaged from faulty brake pads
you will get an argument that brake pads and discs are not covered by warranty however this can be countered by law, in that a consumer can expect a reasonable period of service (and 2000 miles is not a reasonable period of service as pads and discs are designed to last 30,000miles or more )
remember that more flies are attracted to honey than vinegar and you have the law to back you up if the service shop is uncooperative
Original pads are the best. I fitted non originals to the rear of my SV and the disc has worn a fair bit. The front discs show no wear and are on their 2nd set of original pads. Originals are pricey but the discs seem to wear less.
as he fitted new pads to old discs you will need to bed these in for quiet some time.(depending on usage)personnally, as i change mine at 30k,i also fit new rotors at the same time.(two jobs at one time).
Dear Sir,
Brakes (pads and discs) wear count on your use in millage/km not on time when they replaced, but a year is also good time , it may cause of minor dust inside pads get it clean. it will solve your problem.
Thanks.
you mention replacing the discs/pads. how long ago? the fault described is usually caused by warped brake discs as you mention it comes on the onset of braking. i advice replacing the discs.
Yes there is a abs sensor on each wheel. You should be able to see the wire's going to it.The sensor itself it easily damaged and will most likely break if you try to remove it so if one faulty you may end up changing both if you change the faulty one first you will only need one but it change the good one as it will probably break removing then you will need both their is no way to check for the faulty one other than try a new one. They can check in the audi workshop but would cost a bit
The problem described here indicates that you may have the AWD (full time 4WD) drivetrain of the 2003 Element.
It is normal to have 1 side of the vehicle to have increased wear due to the transmission differential, that allows your vehicle's wheels to move at different speeds from the others (turning, inclines, etc.)
Your brake pads really need constant inspection and possible replacement (approx 5,000 miles) with everyday driving, and is really a consumable item like your fuel.
You will find that it is much cheaper to replace the brake pad/lining of your disc brakes than grinding down the supposedly shiny discs that slow down your vehicle.
RE: salt/snow, you can improve your discs' longevity by rinsing them out with warm water after being driven in extreme conditions.
These are not much different from most modern disc brake systems. Once the wheel is off, you will find the caliper assembly is held on with guide pins that screw into place. Little spring clips hold the pads to the caliper. If you do one side at a time you can reference the other to make sure you get it back together right. Be sure to unhook any speed and wear sensors before pulling the caliper off. Use a coat hanger or other wire to suspend the caliper. (not good to hang by the hose) Take the cap off the brake master and compress the brake pistons with a C clamp before you try to put the new pads in place. If the master overflows you will want some rags there to catch it. Brake fluid and paint don't get along very well. To do the job right, you need a dial caliper to check the thickness of the rotors. The minimum thickness is stamped into the hubs on most VWs. If there are scores or lines worn into the rotor they need to be removed and machined. If not, you may be able to remove the glaze from the rotors with some fine sandpaper and lots of elbow grease. ( I always take mine in for machining as it also ensures any warping is taken care of.) On vehicles with 4 wheel discs it is recomended to do all 4 at the same time, but NEVER replace in less than pairs. (front or rear) Another safety note, don't breath the black dust. It's carcinogenic.
hiya this does sound iffy ? but b4 i comment /offer an opinion could you or your friend jack up the wheel in question that has had repair and look at how the brake disc is secured to the actual hub assy that wheel bearing is housed in ? also caliper? cracked?? is it now a new one? have never had problem renewing front or rear bearings in past using the correct tool/s a hydraulic press is the best method for removing excessive siezed components as for your friend now saying noise is from rear ? it may be pads worne or disc/s corrosion/scoured so investigate and update what you discover ? sounds like big hammer garage?
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