Correct order of replacing rear axle assembly,schematic ?? got an older honda too.Bought with Mechanics book(not chilton) where a good place to get MECHANIC BOOK @ best price for a 2001 Vulcan1500 classic

Yes, the oil reservior separates from the wheel assembly. Here is the whole process for removing the rear wheel assembly. In order to remove the rear wheel assembly, you are going to need a motorcycle lifting jack stand or similar device.

1. Stand the bike on the side stand

On the left side of the rear wheel:

2. Remove the two forward facing bolts.
3. Remove the allen head bolt with the wide head.

On the right side of the rear wheel:

4. Remove the brake adjuster nut on the end of the actuating lever.
5. Remove the Toque link nut at the bottom of the wheel assembly.
6. Remove the axle nut (castle nut and cotter pin). Move aside the now loose plastic former on the left side of the bike and remove the axle from that side. You will need to hold the castle nut while loosening the axle.

7. Place the motorcycle jack under the swing arm or chassis tubes to stabilize the rear end. Lift the motorcycle until the rear tire is just off the ground.
8. Remove the axle. When you remove the axle, the spacer under the left side cover will probably fall out.
9. Remove the three cap nuts (left side) and use a screwdriver to gently pry the wheel from the splined drive gear and place the wheel assembly on the ground.
10. Pull the wheel assembly rearward.

Reverse the process to replace the wheel. Check the level of the final drive oil and fill as needed with SAE90 hypoid gear oil with a GL-5 rating. While you have everything apart, you should also check the brake pads and wheel bearings for wear and replace if necessary. God Bless and good luck!

The carrier comes out by removing the rear cover and axles.(consult a haynes or chilton manual for axle removal instructions) If you intend to replace the carrier or pinion bearings, before you start thinking about doing that be aware that you need torque wrenches, dial indicators and lots of experience in order to get it done correctly. Otherwise, you will spend lots of $ on parts and it will self-destruct within a week.
For about the same price as a complete bearing set, you can usually locate a complete used assembly (make sure gear ratio is exactly the same as the old one) . Then, just bolt it in, change the lube and go!!

you should try a different parts house and if need be even order a service manual you will need it to replace this sensor

In order to remove the rear wheel assembly, you are going to need a motorcycle lifting jack stand or similar device.

1. Stand the bike on the side stand

On the left side of the rear wheel:

2. Remove the 2 froward facing bolts.
3. Remove the allen head bolt with the wide head.

On the right side of the rear wheel:

4. Remove the brake adjuster nut on the end of the actuating lever.
5. Remove the Toque link nut at the bottom of the wheel assembly.
6. Remove the axle nut (castle nut and cotter pin).

7. Place the motorcycle jack under the swing arm or chassis tubes to stabilize the rear end.
8. Remove the axle.
9. Remove the axle from the splined drive gear and place the wheel assembly on the ground.
10. Pull the wheel assembly rearward.

Reverse the process to replace the wheel.

In order to remove the rear wheel assembly, you are going to need a motorcycle lifting jack stand or similar device.

1. Stand the bike on the side stand

On the left side of the rear wheel:

2. Remove the 2 froward facing bolts.
3. Remove the allen head bolt with the wide head.

On the right side of the rear wheel:

4. Remove the brake adjuster nut on the end of the actuating lever.
5. Remove the Toque link nut at the bottom of the wheel assembly.
6. Remove the axle nut (castle nut and cotter pin).

7. Place the motorcycle jack under the swing arm or chassis tubes to stabilize the rear end.
8. Remove the axle.
9. Remove the axle from the splined drive gear and place the wheel assembly on the ground.
10. Pull the wheel assembly rearward.

Reverse the process to replace the wheel.

In order to remove the rear wheel assembly, you are going to need a motorcycle lifting jack stand or similar device.

1. Stand the bike on the side stand

On the left side of the rear wheel:

2. Remove the 2 froward facing bolts.
3. Remove the allen head bolt with the wide head.

On the right side of the rear wheel:

4. Remove the brake adjuster nut on the end of the actuating lever.
5. Remove the Toque link nut at the bottom of the wheel assembly.
6. Remove the axle nut (castle nut and cotter pin).

7. Place the motorcycle jack under the swing arm or chassis tubes to stabilize the rear end.
8. Remove the axle.
9. Remove the axle from the splined drive gear and place the wheel assembly on the ground.
10. Pull the wheel assembly rearward.

Reverse the process to replace the wheel.

There is only one wheel you can align.The back one.If the front wheel is correctly assembled and sitting in it,s correct place,the back one is the place to look.On the end of the swingarm is the rear wheel,the axle for the rear wheel and the adjuster.The axle has marks on it to determine the adjustment of the rear axle/chain/belt.If both are the same and the drive belt/chain is correct,then the alignment is correct.Nothing more you can do.Both sides have marks or notches.Make sure they are the same and all is good.Dont overtighten the chain/belt.Hope this helps

The drum isn't leaking, either the wheel cylinder is leaking or the line is leaking

Call your dealer and ask them, or go to an auto parts store and pick up a Chiltons manual for your bike. It has step-by-step disassembly and re-assembly instructions complete with pictures for clarification. Please rate this if it was helpful. Good luck.

The best thing to do is call a "mechanic buddy" and have a case of beer on stanby. But if your determined to do it, than at least get a haynes or chiltons book to help with exploded view of the parts breakdown. I would start by jacking the rear end on stands and taking off the tires, the rear brakes and rear bearing assemblies. The cv shafts line up like a regular driveshaft on a rwd, so make sure you don't whack any of the splines up around the edges where they meet the transaxle. I will tell you if you're not comfortable with doing your own brakes, you will do yourself a galactic amount of good by finding someone who is to help you out.