sounds like somthing is wrong with the throttle and its just a fluke with the gas. try removing the ground off the battery or postive which ever you can get off let bike sit for half an hour disconnectted reconnect and see if it still does this if it does bring it to a dealer as it should be covered under warrenty
hmm...u cant realy ajust it yourself...its all programed by computer so u would have to bring it in to the dealership or just ask the ppl who work there how :)..hope i solve your problem
Check the owners manual for fuse panel location, check the fuses and change the blown fuse, it will be there, you will see it.
If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c
if the bike is unmodified and is fuel injected,there may be a fault in the ecu programme and probably the best solution to find the fault would be a trip to someone wioth a scan tool,they should be able to find the fault in minutes...cheeers
NO...Engine oil is also the transmission oil. This bike has what is called a wet system which means that the clutches are lubed by the engine oil. Be sure to use a good quality oil and change often depending on how you ride.
I would not advise doing that on your bike. Your exhaust is tuned for longevity from the factory and if you do not install a factory or aftermarket performance system you could have issues. Your back pressure will most likely be too much and then you run the risk of burning out your valves and your performance will suffer. If you do not have enough back pressure the bike may not have proper vacuum and it most likely will have difficulty idling.
check kill switch, then battery for full voltage, 12.5V Check fuses and wiring for loose connections.
If you have the wiring diagram check ignition switch, do the simple stuff, before you start replacing coils or sending units on the ignition system.
First of all. Thank you for your service our country appreciates your dedication and your families support.
Bleeding the system is a series of points from front right to back left. then To front left and back right.
then repeat. 2x. After that bleed brake system at the front then the back. over and over. NO disruption of a steady stream, this is a totally sealed system. 0 air. that means if its not perfect its wrong.
The factory actually primes the lines with vacume from the caliper end. keep that in mind.
**Buy a nice new measuring cup and reuse all Fluid.
Dot4 is not cheap.
Please check caliper seals for the "wet" look around the boot and brake line inputs.
This should work. its not uncommon
The only other thing is the Brake reseviour could be sucking in air. Check for capt tightness. Gromet seal. and and the inner plunger not to be stuck in the down position. pluger is a diaphram. not an actual pin...
amazing ride man.. last of the best Wear a helmet plz.
If you have changed to an aftermarket pipe then this could be your issue. If so then I would reccomend adding a power commander so that the fuel curve can be tuned for the added exhaust flow.
ok why are you using water should be using coolant there is allways coolant in the block radiator and header tank the pump circulates the coolant around the block and back into the radiator to be cooled if the radiator is still leaking you shoul repair with rad weld dont leave it keep the haeder tank topped up check radiator and hader tank regularly
check fuel switch, is it on? most times the fuel from the last ride that wasnt used collects in the fuel bulbs, and gets used first, but after that no fuel no go!
According to the user's manual, press SELECT until you see the odometer screen then hold down both SELECT and ADJUST for at least 3 seconds or more. That should change it. Now, their is another problem that you may not be aware of, and that is if that bike is a Canadian one, it may not change. it is my understanding that the US models and EUROPEAN ones are the only ones that can change. Try this, and if it does not change, you are out of luck.
usually what you want to follow is the recommendation from the manual. like if it is new, you have to put in 1.2 liters, then for change oils, 1.0 liters.
but since you have drained it for shipping, it is strongly suggested that you go for the factiry default volume to make sure all parts ar soaked.
Question edited for clarity, make model in order.
Question moved from Suzuki Cars to model category.
It appears to be a well known issue. Help in the Suzuki forums plus a video and here is the Service Manual as well.
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