Hi, Marc you need to make sure you have no intake leaks by spraying some Brake Kleen, Contact Cleaner, Starting Fluid etc. around the intake manifold and seals, if the RPM's go up or down significantly then you have a leak that needs to be fixed before you can continue with the carburetor adjustment.
The engine should be at operating temperature with the choke off to set the idle between 950-1050 rpm. Turn the idle skrew clockwise to increase the idle speed and counterclockwise to decrease the idle speed. If you have access to your air-fuel mixture skrew you may turn it as well, if not there is a video below on how to gain access, make sure you start with clean or new spark plugs. Gently turn the air-fuel mixture skrew clockwise until it starts to bottom out "STOP" do not over tighten as it will damage the taper on the end, now back the skrew out 1-1/2 full turns to establish a starting point start the engine and check the idle rpm's and turn the idle skrew accordingly for 950-1050 rpm if necessary, turn the air-fuel mixture skrew 1/4 turn at a time and let the engine settle for about 10 seconds, turn the skrew clockwise for a leaner mixture and counterclockwise for a richer mixture, you are seeking the highest rpm your air-fuel mixture skrew can acquire without going past 3 full turns from the bottom then resetting the idle skrew back down to 950-1050 rpm If you can not detect any rpm change and can not stall the engine by turning the air-fuel mixture skrew all the way in then your pilot/low-speed jet is too big and needs to be replaced with the next size smaller. Final adjustment should be made with a clean air filter mounted to the carburetor.
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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Faulty main circuit breaker and or connections.
4. Faulty ignition coil and or connections.
5. Faulty spark plug, oil or gas fouled, wrong heat range or service type, wrong gap, loose in the cylinder head, broken electrode or insulator.
6. Faulty spark plug cables, leaking or broken, internal damage check for spark leakage in the dark.
7. Faulty ignition module, switch, CKP, MAP, CMP, sensor and or any connector in the ignition circuit could have corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets
8. Burnt exhaust valve or air leak in the exhaust system.
9. Improper valve clearance (too tight).
10. Check for generated diagnostic codes.
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Hi, Rick before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/252863-dr350-not-starting-just-bought-it-and-now-wont-start-paleeeeez-help What To Do If Your Motorcycle Doesn Start https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1257181/Suzuki-Dr350.html#manual https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki
I would be VERY worried about the gears falling out. That is NOT supposed to happen. What happened to the nut on the end of the crankshaft??? When replacing the gears, is the crankshaft balancer now out of time? Did the cam chain jump time? The "red hott" is probably an air leak between the carb and the cylinder. As for what to do, I suggest a dealer look at it and do the repairs. This is a safety issue. The last thing you want is for the engine to lock up causing the bike to go one direction and you going in another direction with your face leading the way.
Very common one this - There is couple of possibilities but the most likely is pilot jetted blocked you need to compress air clean the jet itself when out of carbi and air clean the hole the jet came out of to rectify blockage
The other but less common answer is the boot the carbi where fits into and clamps to the motor is cracked from age or leaking or come loose therefore sucks to much air you can test this by starting the bike the spaying WD40 or simular around the area and if leaking your RPM will increase as you spray because it gets sucked into air the leak.
I would start with the pilot jet first as this 99% of the time the answer
good luck mate regards Jamie
for ur overheating problem it could be a clogged radiator or radiator hose. try pressure washing the radiator fins and maybie clean it out a bit and for the clutch it could be wear on ur clutch cable. let me know if this helped. thanks
There are three connections to the fuel pump.
Fuel in/out at ends, the pipes should only reach to the correct ends. The IN pipe connects to the end toward front of the bike , OUT toward the back heading to carb.
A small connection on the back for the vacuum pipe from the carb.
This pump only spits the fuel along rather feabley, also check the gause on the fuel tap. When bleeding, remove the fuel pipe from the carb and blow into the tank in order to force the fuel through the pipes until all air is removed.