20 Most Recent 1996 kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Hello, the leak may be caused by the carb gaskets or seals drying out and splitting if the bike has been sat idle for a while.It may well be that the float for that carb is punctured and sits at the bottom of the float chamber. This will cause the needle valve to stay open and will allow the carb to flood all the time and fuel will leak.
Best advice I can give is be careful, get a manual, draw pictures or take photographs. Work in a well ventilated space with a markd out area for dismantling the carb.Do one carb at a time and do not mix any parts. As you dismantle parts use indelible marker or a small screwdriver to scratch location lines for re-assembly. Never trust your memory if it is going to take more than one hour to complete.
Make sure that you have the spares to complete the task befor taking anything apart.
Use masking tape to hold small parts in the sequence that they are dismantled.
Do not let your mates or children touch anything
Make sure the battery is disconnected before you start any work on the fuel system
Good luck jamesey555

Remove right foot rest and it is on there

The bike has a bent shift fork. The engine must come out then gets flipped upside down to remove the bottom half of the crankcase. This allows access to the gears and shift forks. The repair is not recommended for the home mechanic. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

The problem with changing some motorcycle spark plugs is getting a socket to them--once you're able to slip a socket on the plugs, you can usually get an extension into it and a ratchet onto that. However, if you can't get at your spark plugs with a deep socket and regular extension, you might want to get a so-called "wobble extension" that lets you pivot something like 10-15 degrees while still having a solid connection to socket and to ratchet. I have used my 3" wobble extension quite a bit when dealing with motorcycle spark plugs that are deeply recessed. That set-up usually lets me get the socket and extension into the spark plug well in one piece, rather than dropping in a socket and fishing around with an extension to connect it up.

It is very easy with the right tool for the job :)

If you have power to the coils have you checked that it is 12volts ?
If so then for some reason the Igniter is not switching the ground to the coils to produce your spark or it is and there's a break in the wiring/Bad connector or the Igniter is not getting the switching signal from the Pick up coil or again bad wiring/connectors---hope this helps.

hello this is only a solution

try putting a new float in the carb and check that it isnt flooded or the carb housing is cracked because it could be sucking in air some where and make sure its the right carb for the bike

if this dosent work the cheapest way it to make the valve clearance right as it says in the manual then try it if still not try bumping the bike if this dosent work just ask again

thanks hope it helped

did you check ignitor box

H sounds like your coils are fryed,,,,remove a positive wire from a coil,put a paper clip in the end and put it on metal,hit the starter to see if it sparks,,if you get spark you know its the coils.

Follow the large wire from the positive pole on the battery to a small relay with two large wires on it.
That is the starter solenoid, jump from one off the post to the other big post on the solenoid and see if the
starter works. IT WILL SPARK when you jump it use a big wire.
If starter works then 99% sure solenoid is bad.

NGK CR9E

The easiest thing to check is the oil switch wiring. Take the wire off the sensor to check for poor insulation. If it goes out take the switch out and try another one before taking the bottom end off to check out the pump. Fingers crossed!

I'm not an expert but try to change your plugs or check your coil

Engine rattle could be all sorts of things from hydraulic tappet, they should clear within seconds, Piston Slap, that will get quieter as the engine gets hot, to little end bearings or worn rings.
Personally I would expect a substantial discount if I were to purchase it. But having said all that, if the oil is dirty and old, an oil change may cure it.
Your gamble!

Yes , often times when electrical components are going bad , they start work until they hit a certain temperature then they quit. Most common items that quit with heat are pulsar pick-up coils , charge coils in the stator, CDI boxes, and ignition coils. Everything can be tested with a voltage meter accept the CDI box. The CDI box can test good and still be bad. You have to eliminate everything else first.

You need the pitch, roller width, roller thickness (All in all just the chain type) OEM is a 525, 108 link chain with a 15 tooth front sprocket and 40 tooth rear.
It is best to change sprockets and chain together. A stretched/worn chain will damage the sprockets which in turn will lead to premature wear on a new chain.
Best way to identify pitch(and chain type) is to measure the sprocket width(thickness).

• 0.227" (5.76mm) - 520 chain
• 0.284" (7.21mm) - 525 chain
  
• 0.343" (8.71mm) - 530 chain
  

Technically speaking they all have the same pitch (5/8") as you can see they are of different widths. Please note that a 420 and 425 have the same widths as 520 and 525 but their pitch is different(0.5")
Further you will have to decide between stock, O-ring and X-ring. X-ring being the most expensive(and supposedly longest lasting) but in my experience lasts the same as an o-ring chain.

Try installing a new carb kit and that should help.Thanks for asking and I hope it helps

Nice bike.

If the battery does not charge, maybe the battery is bad if it is over 2 years old.

If the new battery you get still doesn't charge, the equivalent of an alternator in a car is bad. Replace as necessary.

Actually, I have a 1985 Honda Interceptor that never had this part go bad.

Good luck to you.

when's the last time you changed your spark plugs.

These are the part numbers from Kawasaki

Front brake pads, you will need 2 sets 43082-1142

The front rotors have been canceled, I will give you the part number 41080-1398-5C

Rear brake pads 43082-1171

The rear rear is also canceled part number 41080-1389-FB