20 Most Recent 2000 Harley Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide - Page 9 Questions & Answers

I had asked for clarification on the "does not move", and said you may have parts from the tensioner between the chain and sprockets. Sorry, this cannot be, since you said the engine runs fine. Again, sorry. Does your transmission clunk or grind when going into gear? OR, does it not make any noise at all when putting it in gear? You say hard to get in gear when you shift? I think I need some more info to help you with this.

Go here to get a look at how your oil pan is set up on your bike. http://www.bikebandit.com Click OEM parts and choose your bike or one a couple of years either side of it. You can take the oil pan off and have it welded if it's not damaged to bad. But, you won't be able to judge that for certain until you get it off, cleaned up, and inspect it.

Good Luck.
Steve

Does it blow the fuses with the light on high or low beam? Has anything been added or removed from the bike prior to the fuses blowing? You definitely have a short/break in insulation somewhere. Places to look--between handlebars and frame (turning handlebars tightly may be pinching wires). Switches on handlebars, wires under tank, wires under seat

If your bike is equipped with the original Keihen CV carb, you should not be able to adjust the idle mixture as the mixture adjustment screw was covered by an "anti-tamper" plug from the factory. If someone has drilled this out, there has probably been some other modifications made as well. The initial setting for this carb is about 3 1/4 turn off the bottom.

Good Luck
Steve

If you have a trip reset knob, take the small screw out of it. and the take the chrome nut off the center of the console. Work the console off the speedometer. Depending on what type of speedo you have, you'll have to take the dash mounting hardware loose, unplug the connectors and lay all of that aside. Then you'll have to drain the tank. Depending on whether you have a carb equipped engine or a fuel injected engine determines what you have to do to get the fuel out. Take the "crossover" line that runs from one side of the tank to the other at the lower front to drain all the fuel out. Then there are two bolts up front and one or two at the rear of the tank that bolt it to the frame. They've made some changes in the WideGlide that I'm not quite up to date on but taking the tank off is no big deal. Pretty straight forward once you get started.

Good Luck
Steve

The oil tank for your Wide Glide is on the bottom of the transmission. There should be two drains, one for the engine oil and one for the transmission. The oil drain is usually the lowest drain when the bike is on the side stand, the one closest to the left front of the oil pan. You can tell the instant you see the first drop whether it's engine oil or transmission oil. Engine oil will be black and the transmission lube will be almost clear. If you drain the transmission instead, it takes 20-24 ounces of the same H-D Syn3 20W50 engine oil.

Good Luck
Steve

You have two things that click when you attempt to start your bike. One, is the starter relay. It should be located behind the electrical cover on the left side of your bike and it makes a very soft, almost inaudible, click when you press the start button. The other is the starter solenoid. This is actually part of the starter and it makes a very loud click. Now, which one is it?

If the softer click, replace the starter relay. It looks exactly like any other relay, a one inch black plastic cube. If the starter solenoid is the problem, you probably need to replace the two large contacts in the solenoid.

MAKE SURE YOUR TRANSMISSION IS IN NEUTRAL. Then look at the end of your starter from the right hand side of your bike. There is a five sided plate held on with three small allen screws. Use a 3mm allen wrench to remove the screws and the plate. There is a large plunger and a long spring behind the plate. Pull the plunger out and look at the large copper contacts in the solenoid. If they are burned, you need to replace them. You can get a kit from your local Harley dealer or from an aftermarket supplier. The contacts are not difficult to replace. You can do it without taking the starter off the bike, just disconnect the battery first.

Good Luck
Steve

The solenoid has a two fold job. Fistly it pushes the dogwheel against the starter pinion and secondly starts the starter motor turning with a high current internal relay. So if it clicks, at least half of it works. They usually fail completely.
Check your starter motor brushes.
Hope that helps.

You can replace the two switches on either handlebar switch housing. Take the switch housing apart and unsolder the wires from the bad switches. Take the small screws out and replace the switches with new ones. Resolder the wires.

Good Luck
STeve

Well, it's not that simple. I can type out the step by step procedure but you're going to need some specail tools as well. You're going to need an air wrench,. a torque wrench that will torque from 50 to 150 foot pounds in both the right and left hand directions, a front pulley locking device, and a special socket to take the large nut off the front sprocket. Do you have these tools?

Good Luck
Steve

Always upright, if it is checked on the stand then it may give a false reading, and you may over or under fill the gearbox. Manufacturers state this as they can not control the angle of what you stand the bike against, but all bikes will be the same when standing.

1. Follow the taillight and rear turn signal wire harness to the 8-pin connector under the seat. Separate the connector. Remove the seven wires and the attached socket terminals from the connector.
2. Cut the cable strap from around the harness in front of grommet in the fender. Pull harness thru grommet in fender.
3. Remove (from underside front of fender) screw and washer from speednut on frame.
4. Remove turn signal lamps.
5. Remove screws and washers from rear of fender supports.
6. Remove license plate bracket.
7. Remove screws and washers from front of fender supports.

Drain and replace all fluids, including brake fluids.
Check brake pad thicknesses and disks.
Check primary chain tension, 5/32" play maximum.
Check clutch adjustment.
Check drive belt tension and for damage.
Check throttle adjustment, if any.
Check lights and tyres.
Check exhaust for leaks.
Ride safe!

Check the wire going to the transmission neutral safety switch, should be located on top of trans with a two wire connector, make sure both wires are secured to the switch. It is possible that the switch itself is faulty or that the indicator bulb is faulty. To test the switch you will need a volt/ohm meter. Set the meter to volts on a scale that will register 12 volts. Connect the positive probe to one side of the switch, the negative probe to ground. With transmission in neutral and ignition on, the meter should register voltage on either side of the switch. If it does, the indicator bulb may be the culprit. If it does not register voltage, the switch itself is probably the issue.

15 - 19 ft lbs

On the top strand, 3/4" to 7/8" up and down when the engine is cold.

Good Luck
Steve

That dial is not you fuel pump. It is your fuel valve. On means that you are allowing fuel to go to the engine, off means that you are shutting all fuel to the engine, and res is short for reserve. Reserve is only used when your engine dies or starts to sputter while engine is running. If you keep enough gas in you tank you should never have to use res.

On the right side of the bike, there are two bolts in the frame between the battery tray and the rear fender, loosen these two bolts, do not take them out. Take the seat off the bike. Look down into the frame just inside the battery and you'll see the head of a "jack bolt". Turn this bolt counterclockwise and the battery tray (with the battery) will lower allowing you to remove the battery top cover and surround. Now, you can get to the battery.

Good Luck
Steve

Look at the end of your starter from the right side of the bike. You'll see a pentagon shaped plate held on with there small screws. There's a single wire connection at the top of the plate. Unplug the wire and connect a test light or a volt meter to the wire. Turn on the ignition switch and press the start button. The test light should light up or the meter should show battery voltage. If it does, your problem is in the starter. If it does not, your problem is electrical. This wire comes straight from the starter relay and it energizes your solenoid.

Good luck
Steve

Most front forks have clinch bolts on the bottom, they grab the axle and hold the forks apart so that you don't crush them together with the axle nut. The 7/16 drill bit is just for aligning the spacers and speedometer if it has one on the front wheel. It sounds small to me but maybe that is what it is. The axle should be just a threaded tube with a nut on it or a big bolt, it is snugged up and locked in place, it really can't go anywhere because it is locked, The clinch bolts on the bottom grab it and hold it. The wheel should spin free when you are all done, and not slop back and forth, Don't forget the calipers, hope this helps.