2000 Harley Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Washing Machines category. It depends if you want a spark at the right time? $39 used or $87 new https://www.google.com/search?q=2000+Harley+Davidson+Wide+Glide+FXDWG+88ci+camshaft+position+sensor Now having said that, it all depends....

Cam position sensor problem/ bypass - Harley Davidson Forums

harley-davidsonforums.com https://www.harley-davidsonforums.com > threads > c... Jan 5, 2022 - So the 1999 and 2000 twin cams have the camshaft position sensor. You can easily bypass that sensor on a carbed model. You'll need an ignition ... Cam Position Sensor ' Harley Davidson Forums Dec 12, 2019 crank position/cam position sensor - Harley Davidson Forums Apr 3, 2012 Cam Sensor ' Harley Davidson Forums Mar 9, 2012 More results from www.harley-davidsonforums.com ..

Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Turn Signal Light Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amps causing the battery to be faulty and must be replaced, "AGM" batteries fall into this category more so than lead-acid types, also before diagnosing any turn signal/running light/parking light issue make sure the bulb is good and the light fuse has continuity with a test light. If you have replaced your OEM lights with one or all LED lights you are going to need a load equalizer. If no turn signals are working the cause could be a faulty turn signal module/flasher or the connector going to it, look for, corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets. Contact spray cleaner is great for removing corrosion. If your turn signal comes on but takes several seconds before it starts flashing you may have dirty contacts in the turn signal switch/button, the switch needs to be opened up and cleaned also the flasher may be starting to fail. It should be noted that cold weather will only exacerbate the situation especially when temperatures drop down below freezing and the location of the component, turn signal switches on the handlebar are at the mercy of the oncoming freezing 70 mph wind and makes it hard for the contacts to do their job covered in frozen grease/grime If all four turn signals flash at the same time like hazard lights even though you only pressed one turn signal button then you have a LED light in the circuit and need a load equalizer that can be purchased from any motorcycle parts supplier. If your speedometer does not function properly it will have to be fixed first because your turn signal module gets the data from the speedometer for normal turn signal function. If your front turn signals don't work use a test light to check for power and ground at the bulb socket, then start backtracking the wiring through every wire connector to the turn signal switch/button and check for continuity, go all the way back to the fuse if necessary to find the cause of the malfunction. If your rear turn signals don't work check your rear fender wiring harness connector first, for corroded, broken, loose pins/sockets, power, and good ground, the harness connector is usually located under the seat on the front of the rear fender then keep tracing the wiring look for obvious harness damage caused by the rear tire. If you still can't find the malfunction backtrack from the rear fender wiring harness connector. If one side does not work you could have a faulty turn signal switch or module check for continuity. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OIqlT9HNGU8 http://www.mediafire.com/file/l8mk1291i3fiprh/2000_Harley_FXD_Servive_Manual.pdf/file https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300 https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Hi, Leighanne for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs -fluid capacities and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.hdforums.com/how-tos/a/harley-davidson-dyna-glide-how-to-replace-fuel-filter-413968 http://www.mediafire.com/file/l8mk1291i3fiprh/2000_Harley_FXD_Servive_Manual.pdf/file https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300 https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs -fluid capacities and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x4XBILULKck http://www.mediafire.com/file/l8mk1291i3fiprh/2000_Harley_FXD_Servive_Manual.pdf/file https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300 https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Hi, Anonymous I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision. 1. Bearings---SCREECH---WHINE2. Belts---CHIRP3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ4. Cam Chains---CLICK5. Clutches---CHATTER---GRIND6. Cylinders---PING7. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE8. Fenders---SCRAPE9. Flasher Unit---Beeps10. Fronk Forks---Plunk11. Fuel pumps---WHIRR12. Gears---WHINE13. Head Gasket---HISS14. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP15. Instrument Clusters---BUZZING16. Kick Starter---GRINDS17. Pistons---SLAP18. Power Valves---CLINK---RATTLE19. Radiators---GURGLE20. Rear Chains---RATTLE21. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK22. Relays---CLICK---BUZZ23. Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK24. Shaft Drives---WHIRR25. Shifting Trans---CLUNK26. Solid Lifters---TICK27. Speedometers---bzzz28. Starters---CLICK29. Starter Clutch---GRIND---WHIRR30. Warning Lights---BEEPFor more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below.Good luck and have a wonderful day.https://www.hdforums.com/how-tos/a/harley-davidson-dyna-glide-engine-noise-diagnostic-guide-413949http://www.mediafire.com/file/l8mk1291i3fiprh/2000_Harley_FXD_Servive_Manual.pdf/filehttps://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmchttps://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.4. A failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module.7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.10. Faulty or corroded kill switch.11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.14. Fuel tank empty.15. The gas cap is not venting properly or the fuel tank venting system blocked, loosen the gas cap and go for a test ride.16. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.17. Vacuum line from the intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.19. Petcock clogged or damaged.20. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.21. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.https://www.hdforums.com/forum/ignition-tuner-ecm-fuel-injection/181051-help-bike-starts-runs-a-few-seconds-and-dies.htmlhttps://www.mediafire.com/file/oaxh9pd1a6yjrg9/1999_Harley_Dyna_Service_Manual.pdf/filehttps://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmchttps://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Hi, Anonymous should be only ounces, for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs -fluid capacities and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. http://www.mediafire.com/file/l8mk1291i3fiprh/2000_Harley_FXD_Servive_Manual.pdf/file https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300 https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

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Hi, Anonymous if your bike has been sitting idle for weeks, months or years and you did not do any pre-storage maintenance I feel your pain it will probably have a dead battery and not want to start or if it starts it will not idle unless the choke is full-on and run poorly then stall, here are the following steps necessary to complete in order to get your bike back to an acceptable running condition and in the future use a fuel stabilizer before putting your bike in storage for the winter. 1. If your battery was 2-3 years old when you last had the bike running you should replace it. 2. If you believe your battery might still be serviceable remove it from the bike and put it on a 1 or 2 amp trickle charger for 24 hours. If it is the old lead-acid type with visible cells and acid levels fill each cell to the top line with distilled water and replace the caps, run the vent tube into a plastic or styrofoam cup, any cells that are cloudy/milky replace the battery. 3. After charging the battery remove the leads and let it sit for a couple of hours then check the battery voltage with a voltmeter, you should have 12.5 volts or more, for any readings in the 11-volt range you need to do a proper "LOAD" test on the battery and replace as necessary, you may have 12.5 volts or better but little or zero amps, any readings in the 10-volt range you have a dead cell and the battery needs to be replaced. 4. Drain and flush fuel tank if it rusty there is a cheap and easy fix. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUYr_7SwGms 5. Remove and inspect your air cleaner paper elements that are not oil soaked can be cleaned with a soft brush and low pressure compressed air, oil-soaked elements must be replaced. Gause mesh and foam elements can be cleaned by soaking them in a container big enough to completely cover them with a solution of 1 gallon of water and 1 oz. of Dawn dishwashing liquid for small and medium-size elements, for monster size double the formula and let soak for at least one hour then rinse with warm water shake off excess and let air dry, "WARNING" do not use compressed air as this will embed micro-sized dirt and road grime and destroy the mesh pattern and stretch foam elements out of shape just squeeze it like a sponge and let air dry, use a fan if you're in a hurry. When completely dry spray a very fine mist of air filter oil evenly around the whole element. 6. Remove the carburetors, disassemble and decontaminate with a "CARB DIP" or if you have EFI remove injectors and clean with carb spray and compressed air 7. Check intake manifold and seals for leaks and craks. 8. Remove fuel valve and filter disassemble and clean as necessary, remove, clean, and inspect fuel and vacuum lines and replace as necessary. 9. Replace spark plugs with new ones and check for spark. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/ignition-tuner-ecm-fuel-injection/893392-intermittent-engine-stall-shutdown-cutoff.html http://www.mediafire.com/file/l8mk1291i3fiprh/2000_Harley_FXD_Servive_Manual.pdf/file https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300 https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Hi, Anonymous to validate it is indeed a fuel issue spray starting fluid into the air cleaner then try starting if it fires up and runs for a few seconds then dies then you definitely have a fuel problem, you need to locate the fuel flow origin first to isolate the problem area otherwise the usual suspects are: 1. Fuel tank empty. 2. Fuel cap or fuel tank not venting properly. 3. Fuel filter clogged with rust or dirt. 4. Fuel valve not in the on or reserve position. 5. Vacuum line to fuel valve or VOS is cracked, broken, pinched, or missing. 6. Fuel valve/petcock clogged or diaphragm cracked, cut or torn. 7. Faulty fuel valve allowing fuel to enter the combustion chamber through the intake vacuum line 7. Fuel line from the fuel valve to the carburetor or fuel pump clogged, cracked, pinched, bent, broken, or missing. 8. Fuel pump not working. 9. Fuel line touching cylinder or head causing fuel to boil and vapor lock, repair by rerouting and wrapping line with convoluted tubing. 10. Carburetor inlet clogged. 11. Carburetor float or needle and seat stuck. 12. Carburetor not venting properly overflow line or bowl fitting clogged, pinched, or bent. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/617131-not-getting-fuel-to-carb-help.html http://www.mediafire.com/file/l8mk1291i3fiprh/2000_Harley_FXD_Servive_Manual.pdf/file https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300 https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Starter Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. Depending on battery voltage starter relays and starter solenoids can make the same noise when you hit the starter button. You can easily determine which one is at fault by two simple tests: STARTER RELAY- place your thumb and index finger on the starter relay and press the starter button, if you feel the click then the relay is faulty and needs to be replaced. STARTER SOLENOID- bridge the positive and negative poles of the solenoid with a small screwdriver if you get a loud clunk then the solenoid needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. If the engine turns over then replace the starter relay. A motorcycle starter relay is an electronic mechanical switch that has a small coil winding around a piece of metal that requires low amperage and thin wires to be activated. When you turn on your ignition switch power 12 volts is sent to the relay coil which in turn becomes a magnetic contact point that pulls a spring-loaded contact point to itself completing an electrical circuit that allows more amperage necessary to be accessed by the starter solenoid which in turn acts in the same way as the relay but on a larger scale with its stronger heavier contacts making available the necessary amperage to turn the starter motor. If your battery has low voltage it, in turn, makes the magnetic contact point weak in trying to pull its counterpart to make a connection. These relays are usually encased in a plastic housing that is sealed, depending on the quality of the product. When activated they will produce a small amount of heat to their metal components which in turn can create the perfect environment for condensation to form depending on weather conditions and how careless you may be with a water hose or sprayer while washing your bike. After a period of time, several months to several years depending on the circumstances this condensation is the starter button for electrolysis and the slow build-up of corrosion which ends by preventing the magnetic contacts from making a solid connection and alerts you to this situation with the customary greeting "CLICK or BUZZ" if you get a single loud "CLUNK" then the starter solenoid is at fault and needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. The relay is inexpensive and needs to be replaced however in a pinch they can be forcibly opened cleaned and resealed with silicone. In a nutshell, motorcycle starter relays take in low amperage and send out higher amperage when activated and for curious minds, the voltage remains constant at whatever your battery reads at the time. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/engine-mechanical-topics/723335-dyna-won-t-start-just-clicks-battery-good.html http://www.mediafire.com/file/l8mk1291i3fiprh/2000_Harley_FXD_Servive_Manual.pdf/file https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300 https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs -fluid capacities and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.v-twinforum.com/threads/oil-capacity.207480/ http://www.mediafire.com/file/l8mk1291i3fiprh/2000_Harley_FXD_Servive_Manual.pdf/file https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300 https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Hi, Anonymous you could have a faulty sending unit or gauge, there could be a problem with your wiring. On models with the fuel gauge posing as a left-hand fuel cap, the gauge is a press-fit do not try to unscrew it, simply apply ample force lift up in a rocking motion to remove the gauge. Disconnect wires to the gauge and with a set of positive and negative jumpers from the battery connect the positive jumper and flash the negative, the gauge should peg full, if not replace the gauge. With a test light check for power to the sending unit, then remove the sending unit and manually operate the float arm slowly with the correct wiring hooked up to the fuel gauge and sending unit and the ignition on, the gauge should respond accordingly if not replace the float arm assembly. If your fuel gauge registers the incorrect amount of fuel in the tank you can try bending the float arm the necessary amount up or down for a more accurate reading. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softail-models/858236-want-to-remove-left-side-fuel-gauge-cap.html http://www.mediafire.com/file/l8mk1291i3fiprh/2000_Harley_FXD_Servive_Manual.pdf/file https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300 https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Hi, Anonymous the vast majority of service, parts fiche, and owners manuals on the internet are "FREE" to download and all service manuals contain wiring diagrams in the back pages. The rest usually charge a modest fee from $7 to $15 and there is a handful of obscure, rare, obsolete, and very old models that are no longer or never were available, for these rare occasions I shall look on eBay and find the cheapest one available. Most of the manuals will cover your exact make, model, and year otherwise one will be provided that comes as close as possible to your bike and will have most of the same info that an exact manual would have. If there is no $ sign after the manual link it is free to download view and print. To download your Harley manual for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. http://www.mediafire.com/file/65e9i0e80baqvhz/Harley-Davidson_Dyna_Service_Manual_2003.pdf/file https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc http://mybikemanuals.com/harley-davidson/harley-davidson-dyna-glide-owners-manuals/ https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are: 1. Loose neck bearings due to improper preload. 2. Fork springs are worn out or broken. 3. Fork oil lever too low. 4. Loose front fender or brake caliper. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/1120102-clunk-from-front-end.html http://www.mediafire.com/file/l8mk1291i3fiprh/2000_Harley_FXD_Servive_Manual.pdf/file https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300 https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs -fluid capacities and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/607772-2000-fxdx-diagnostic-trouble-codes.html https://www.fuelmotousa.com/p-29661-harley-trouble-codes.html http://www.mediafire.com/file/l8mk1291i3fiprh/2000_Harley_FXD_Servive_Manual.pdf/file https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300 https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs -fluid capacities and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/152027-removing-front-fender.html http://www.mediafire.com/file/l8mk1291i3fiprh/2000_Harley_FXD_Servive_Manual.pdf/file https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300 https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Hi, Sheila for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs -fluid capacities and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11290 http://www.mediafire.com/file/l8mk1291i3fiprh/2000_Harley_FXD_Servive_Manual.pdf/file https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300 https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs -fluid capacities and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5kDILrVKNFY http://www.mediafire.com/file/l8mk1291i3fiprh/2000_Harley_FXD_Servive_Manual.pdf/file https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300 https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Hi, Anonymous if your carburetor or exhaust is: COUGHING is usually caused by an air leak in the intake system and will generally have the same telltale signs, a wet or damp build-up of oil/gas seepage at the intake manifold to the cylinder head or carburetor to intake manifold connection and in rare instances a worn throttle plate shaft and or seals. POPPING on deceleration is usually caused by a lean fuel condition or an air leak in the exhaust system and is generally located where black carbon soot is seen as a flashing build-up from any joint connection. This condition can easily be remedied by removing and cleaning both joint pieces and reassembling with high temp silicone and torquing the exhaust clamp to the proper spec. SPITTING is usually caused by a faulty accelerator pump and or nozzle, or the float bowl needle and seat leaking and overflowing through the main jet mixing well nozzle, or the air-fuel mixture screw is adjusted too lean. BACKFIRING is usually caused by a sticky/tight intake valve or a timing issue, 180 degrees out or cam chain off 1or 2 teeth. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/658865-bike-sputters-backfires-dies-help-07-sb.html http://www.mediafire.com/file/l8mk1291i3fiprh/2000_Harley_FXD_Servive_Manual.pdf/file https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300 https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally