Laverda 750 S - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

The most common complaints are the poor gas mileage, weak electric starter, not as fast off the line as the Japanese bikes, slower top end speed, top heavy and not a good commuter bike. Additionally, dealers are few and far between. Install new spark plugs, clean the air filter, clean or at least drain the carbs to remove any water in the float bowls. Do a compression check to see if the valves need to be re-seated.

All late 60's and 70's Laverda 750 twins are negative earth.
Buy the 'Green Book' ISBN-13:
978-0-9796891-0-9 - do not pay more than the cover price inc post.
For parts try Slaters or Motal in the UK. I buy from Laverda Paradies in Germany, does what it says on the tin - every time.
http://www.laverda-paradies.de
For info try http://www.laverdamania.net/menugb.htm and
http://www.iloc.co.uk/

how good is the battery check terminals are clean leads and all conections are good try remote battery and jump start it like a car if the problem goes away its your battery if not its the starter or solinoid or leads

one possible cause is that you dont have the correct clearances for the valves, if there is not enough clearance, once the engine gets hot and the valve expand, they can hold the valves open (usualy the exhaust valve)... this would cause low compression when hot making it hard to start.
hope it helps

Front tyre 3.50 - 18
Rear tyre 4.00 - 18
You'll need tubes too.

Saddle Bags and a tank bag. I use RKA products which are excellent and have been using the same ones for a few years.,

but since it had a tendency to get hot during idling at traffic lights I'm not sure if it had air in it or just a low levelThe cooling capacity is 1.6 liters. the cooling liquid is composed by a mixture of distilled water (40%) with anti-freeze extra (60%). Antifreeze 960ml Distilled water 640ml. Don't mix, instead of the prescribed liquid, alcohol or other fluid with the water,,,

and was wondering if other Zane riders have a view on what's good/not good? I'm looking for something most suitable for fast winding road use rather than mainly track. I had Dunlop 207's on mine and recently switched to Pirelli Dragon Supercorsa SC 2's. The the SC's are amazing,,

According to the repair guide the year 69 had frame numbers from 1650 to 2800 but this includes GT. The frame is different from SF frames,

Try a new air cleaner, or strip down carbs and clean all jets .

Be sure you are using the correct weight of engine oil. Too heavy a viscosity will cause the problem you mention. In addition, it could be the clutch cable sticking rather than the plates. Have you lubricated that cable lately? Does anyone even do that any more?

Don't understand your problem but if you're looking for a Post Office. go to usps.com, enter zip code.

Need more info.No clutch actuation? Slipping? What's it doing or not doing?

Did your bike quit whilst it was running, or is the problem that it won't turn over on the starter when you try to start it?Position 1 of the ignition switch should allow the starter to be operated and the engine to fire up. Position 2 is for parking lights only. The ignition switch can suffer poor internal contacts with age. It may have been replaced with the wrong type of switch if you say it turns over in position 2. Have you checked the fuses? If they are OK, try bypassing the ignition switch completely.If you are running the original ignition, the control box under the tank can fail. Check that there is a spark on all three plugs. THEY ALL MUST BE KEPT EARTHED when turning the engine over to avoid destroying the ignition module.

Jo - you need to explain what problems you are having!! The 1980 model had a cable operated mechanism. Vital that the clutch cable is smoothly routed with bends as big a radius as possible. Lubrication of clutch lever pivot and cable is vital too. Handlebar adjuster should be used to leave a small amount of slack. If the problem is getting the clutch to free off, then if the bike has been standing for a long time the plates can stick together. Have an answer for that...

Hi, remove the caliper from the rotor, leaving the brake line conected, now lift the caliper higher than the master cylinder and re bleed the system with it in the higher position, this will force the air out up hill rather than the fluid gravity feeding when you bleed it in the normal position, poor master cylinders on the rear brake, make sure your brake pedal returns fully check it isnt sticking and has some free play

Sterling Silver 244 (BMW) shade number 1 Dupont

Laverda specialists such as Wolfgang Haerter; OCT or Andy Wagner/Laverda Paradies can help. Some enterprising owners have replaced the electronic guts with an aftermarket unit whilst retaining the original housing.
There are a couple of possible causes to consider - duff electronic revcounter or aftermarket (DMC) electronic ignition fitted which needs a filter fitting to the revcounter wiring - again, the latter is obtainable from Laverda specialists. Check out Laverda forums such as www.laverdapedia.com/forum for more info (use the search facility)

try looking on e-bay for a book on your bikes or you could try to get a haynes service and repair manual
we call them " haynes the book of lies!" but they do help a bit so its realy unfair of us!!!