kawasaki KX 250 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues - Page 9

Yes, but put it back on by hand a then use a torque wrench to tighten it down. Remounting using an air gun could strip the threads on the crank shaft. New cranks are expensive. Chances are you will need a flywheel puller to actually remove the flywheel from the crankshaft.

The plug on the side engine casing is for 10w40 motor oil. NEVER use synthetic lubricants or oil with 'special' additives. They can mess up your clutch. The 10w40 motor oil is shared by the gearbox and the engine because they are a single unit.

Use 4 ounces of two stroke engine oil for every gallon of gas. That will give you a 32 to 1 mixture which is the industry standard. If the outboard motor is a 2 stroke (most of them are), the engine oil is the same. Note the difference > Engine oil verses Motor oil. Motor oil in the gearbox, Engine oil in the gas.

From Kawasaki or Ebay etc

Good Luck
Hope this helps.
(If it does then please mark this as 'useful')
Ride Safe
Bike-Doc

torque it back down to 72 ft lb.

The best way to fill fork oil is to add the specified amount and let the forks sit overnight to allow all entrained air escape. Leave the fill plugs off. Ofter you let the air escape, plug it up install the forks and add air to the desired pressure if has that option.

does it run out of fuel ? remove the screw on the carb bowl and fuel should run out if not the is blockege somewhere from the tank to carb trace back , is the a spark ? maybe your coil / ignition are bieng effected by the heat from the engine ?,you need to check these things and go from there.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

For the wiring diagram of a 2003 Kawasaki KX250, have you tried here?

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

Yes, you need to bleed the system. Somehow air has gotten in.
First, fill the master cylinder to the full level with brake fluid. Locate the bleeder valve down on the caliper and get out a wrench that fits it. Then pump the pedal several times and hold it down as you open the bleeder valve. Do not let the pedal back up while the valve is open - or else air will be drawn back in. After a few seconds, close the valve and pump the pedal again.
Perform these steps until normal feel to the pedal is achieved. Make sure the master cylinder does not run low on brake fluid while you are doing the bleeding.

In general, most of the KYB and Showa big bike suspensions are charged to around 140-150 PSI from the factory.

http://www.mxboards.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=462

Timing chain marks??? Or marks on your cams?? On the cams you should have 2 marks on each side of your cam sprocket. They should be even with the top of your jug...

Head nuts 18 ft-lb (25Nm), cylinder base nuts 25 ft-lb(34Nm)

have a look at that link horse power and more http://www.motorbikes.be/en/Kawasaki_KX_250_2003.aspx

Red exhaust pipe(s) are usually the result of a too-lean mixture. Don't allow this condition to persist--pistons, valves, and spark plugs will be damaged from the heat. Make sure the ignition timing is correct.

Hi
Both seized.
For the gas tap, spray CRC lube on it, leave for an hour then gently use grips to move it.
For the clutch, need to know if its the cable or interanl clutch. Disconnect cable from engine and try, if OK its internal. If its clutch cable remove from bike and try to spray / fill cable and leave elevated for and hour / day. Then start see sawing cable to free up.

If all of the other gears work, and sound good, you might be looking at a complete disassembly to find the issue.
Usually due to a notched shift drum, bent shift fork, or gear synchro worn.

Hi there
You will need to fully strip down the carbys to give them a good clean.
This will let you see if corrosion has set in.
Remove all the jets and clean, then blow through all the jets and holes in the carby bodys to see that everything is clear and not blocked.
You should remove the slides and needles and the jet that the needles go into(emulshion tubes). These have tiny holes in them that block easily so make sure they are clean.
Also remove the mixture screws. Then once you've blown out the holes(orrafices)replace them and set to 1.5 turns out.
You will need a pair of vacume gagues to set the sync(if the sync is out)
Regards Andrew Porrelli

On the bottom of the crank case is what looks like a bolt but it is a drain plug you should be able to tell which one by directly underneath it you will see a hole going through the skid plate as well as it may have a sealing washer on it (fiber or aluminum), if an aftermarket skid has been installed you may have to remove it if it doesn't have a hole in it or the holes in the skids don't line up, this will take care of the tranny oil, as for the gas below the tank you will have the valve that should say on/off/res turn this to off, then follow the fuel line down to the carb and pull the line off of the carb, it may have a clamp that will need to be loosend. point the tube at you drain container and turn the valve back to on. If you want to drain the carb as well there should be a drain plug on the float bowl of the carb. Hope this helps let me know if anything is unclear.

Your bike has three bearings in the hub. Two are side by side.
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There is a large "plug" on the bottom of the bowl. Just remove the plug.
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