2003 kawasaki KX 250 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

burn out silencer packing or exaust leaks can burn a sparkplug , i guess your exaust system have lots of leaks that make the sparkplug fool and burn

running out of oil or low oil pressure

as long as your sprocket and brakes line up . should be good to go. we have two of the bikes

Try a .162 main jet,48 power jet,carb on 3 or 4th clip to the main jet.
Some boyser power reeds might help also about atotal of 60 to 75 bucks for the whole deal and that should get you to bonzai state in no time.

Simple answer :
You have a blown head gasket

Auto Decompressor Bolt 104 in·lb
Cylinder Head Cover Bolts 87 in·lb
Cylinder Head Bolts: M10 36 S
M6 104 in·lb S

Just cause the piston looks fine dosent mean the rings are still good did you do a compression test if you don't have one buy one they are great to have with 2 stroke bikes put the cylinder head back on and cover spark plug hole with finger it should first **** a bit then should blow finger off the hole the compression should be greater than 120 psi of a 125 not sure on the 250 rule of thumb if you have less than 120 your piston or rings is pooched..

go for repsol tranmissiones and motul racing 2t oil

Go to this website to see an exploded diagram of your carb; www.babbittsonline.com

The VIN listed is backwards, should read JKAKXMK13SA009008. Bike was made in Japan in 1995

"Learn to like smoke for awhile. Smell the aroma". Pardon the humor. I couldn't resist. Chances are there is oil built up in the crankcase. It is going to take some time for the oil to dissipate. How long? I don't know. It all depends on how much is in there. Cleaning the muffler is no help since the oil burning is coming from the crank not the muffler. If you are careful, and keep a vigilant eye, you could cut the gas/oil mix in half to 64 to 1 instead of the normal 32 to 1. That would mean only 2 ounces of oil per gallon instead of the normal 4 ounces. Let the crank add the rest. This will help burn the crank oil excess, but BE CAREFUL. When the crank drys up you had best not ride until more oil is added to the gas.

A “very helpful” rating for this answer? Thanks!

Technicaly it is designated " Lever-comp-change shaft ". Ask the parts counter for that and they will kinda look at you funny. Generally they are called a " shift shaft ". Your Kawasaki dealer should have one or you can go online to Babbitt's and get one there. www.babbittsonline.com

I believe the arm is on top of the case on the left hand side attached to a shaft that goes into the case. It also may have a bolt in the side of the case below the arm that has a machined shoulder on it to retain the shaft from pulling out. If it does, remove it.If this is the way it's set up, it actuates the clutch thru a rod that goes all the way across the motor inside the hollow shaft that the clutch is mounted on. I don't have specific experience to the 250 KX, but I've been in the little ones and that's the way they're set up. So here's what you do-
Drain the gear oil and remove the round clutch cover on the right side of the bike. Remove the 5 or 6 washered bolts and the springs from the clutch pressure plate. Remove the pressure plate and you'll see the clutch lifter-it's a short rod with a flat bearing on it located in the middle of the clutch shaft. Remove it and using a small magnet tool go inside the hollow shaft and retrieve the actuating rod. There may be a ball bearing with it as well, although I don't think there is in that bike. Anyway, don't lose it if it has one and pay attention to which end of the shaft goes to the clutch arm. You can now replace the arm. When your putting it back together, rotate the arm with your fingers and make sure the lifter is moving up and down before you put the pressure plate and springs back in. Good luck!

Just remove the right side cover to expose the kick start mechanism. Remove the bolt on the end of the shaft, tow washers and guide then the spring. It has been awhile since I worked on the KX 250, but as I recall, the clutch does not need to be removed in the process of replacing the spring. I could be wrong on that. Below is the kick mechanism on your bike. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

it sounds like the float,in the carb is stuck,,so not stopping fuel as it fills.....give it a tap on the bottom of the carb if no joy take off and clean,,,

There should be a allen key plug to take out of the caliper then once this is out there will be another allen key head behind the plug to undo (this is the pin) just undo, take out and the pads should be able to be removed.
Pay close attention to the direction pads come out and any spacers between the pads and brake piston as you want them all back in exactly the same with the new pads they stop the pads from rattling around when riding
good luck regards Jamie

603 ml per fork