Wigged wiring harness at the hole in the firewall where the headlight wiring runs through toward the front of car and the headlight started working but simultaneously lost the two rear running lights/park lights (right and left) AND lost the gauge cluster lighting. ALL FUSES in the fuse block are good - No power is getting to the bulb socket at each of the rear parking lamps. Therefore we have a Frigged up wiring under the dash --looks like another dive under the car and under the dash to fix the wiring situation (had similar problem on '95 suburban ). Wigged wiring harness at the hole in the firewall where the headlight wiring runs through toward the front of car and the headlight started working but simultaneously lost the two rear running lights/park lights (right and left) AND lost the gauge cluster lighting. ALL FUSES in the fuse block are good - No power is getting to the bulb socket at each of the rear parking lamps. Therefore we have a Frigged up wiring under the dash --looks like another dive under the car and under the dash to fix the wiring situation (had similar problem on '95 suburban ).
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Replace the right rear brake light bulb. It is possible that the filament has burnt out and has fallen across to rest on the brake light filament. This would cause the condition you are experiencing.
I don't believe it would be a bad ground for just one light. It could be a wire, a socket connector, or the bulb socket itself. See if the wire has power at the socket when signaling left, with key on. If there is power, probably a bad socket or connector. If no power, check for power coming from flasher-the wire going to front left, or driver's side. If you have power from the flasher, but nothing at the socket, the wire has probably broken. Good luck.
Check for power with a test light(not a dvom) at the tail lamp assembly. Test right at the spot where the bulb socket sits. If you have power then i would check the connection tab on the bulb socket itself for pits or corroded tabs. If you do not have power present at test point then double check the fuse chart and see if it says 'electronic' instead of having a fuse amp rating for the tail lamps. If it says electronic for any of the light circuits then it means their is no external fuse that can be replaced and the problem is most likely internal of the headlight switch. Since the headlight switch is actually a power source for the lights. I would start there at this point. Let me know what you find and if you need anything else just let me know
Hi: tail is on its own circuit and utilizes the longer thinner element in tthe bulb --- the brake and turn utilize the short thicker element in the bulb---- two different circuits. If bulb fails on tail ligh then the bulb is more than likely burned out. When you take the bulb out, look at the elements and you should see a broken thin filiment. bulb is bad, replace. good luck
I had the same problem. They were on when the headlights were on, but turned off instead of brightening when I pressed the brake. I replaced the bulb and now it gets bright when I press the brake instead of turning off (like it should).
Release the hood latch inside the Rodeo. Raise the hood and look down behind the headlights. The old bulb and assembly are held into the headlight from the back side of the the headlight. There is not a great deal of room to work behind the headlight because of the battery on the passenger's side and the air cleaner box on the driver's side.
Grip the large round plastic nut with your hands and give it a quarter turn counter-clockwise. Carefully remove the head light and plastic nut. Look for the release lever to depress and pull on the old bulb at the same time. It will unplug very much like your computer power cord. Be careful not to drop the plastic nut.
Now plug in the new bulb and replace the plastic nut. Carefully insert the bulb into the headlight and give the plastic nut a clockwise quarter turn and try the new light.
I just replaced both of my headlights last night and I am an accountant.
Wigged wiring harness at the hole in the firewall where the headlight wiring runs through toward the front of car and the headlight started working but simultaneously lost the two rear running lights/park lights (right and left)
AND lost the gauge cluster lighting. ALL FUSES in the fuse block are good - No power is getting to the bulb socket at each of the rear parking lamps. Therefore we have a Frigged up wiring under the dash --looks like another dive under the car and under the dash to fix the wiring situation (had similar problem on '95 suburban ).
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